clutch is gone but pads are fine...

Discussion in '2 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits' started by benger83, May 6, 2011.

  1. benger83

    benger83 New Member

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    skyhawk- clutch wont engage but pads are new. when the clutch is fully let out the back tire still moves its not locked in gear. do i just need to adjust the clutch plate or what?
     
  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    Remove the clutch cable from the clutch arm completely and see if the clutch is engaged. If it is, the clutch cable at the arm needs adjusting. If not then the most likely problem is in the clutch itself, and may need freeing up, sometimes they stick and won't engage.
     
  3. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I don't get it.

    1. Clutch won't engage.
    2. Back wheel moves when lifted.

    Are you saying the clutch isn't FULLY engaging, are you saying you can't get it to DISengage?

    Engaged Clutch - accelerating, plate is grabbing pads and you're riding.
    Disengaged Clutch - coming to a stop, applying pressure to clutch lever while braking, locking clutch etc.
     
  4. benger83

    benger83 New Member

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    yeah i meant disengaging sorry ...
     
  5. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    4 Step Clutch Adjustment.

    1. Adjust the clutch's camshaft so that it is perfectly flat against the bucking bar.
    2. Put the clutch handle into the locked position.
    3. Adjust the flower nut CCW in very slow increments, checking to see when your bike rolls freely. Put the locking screw back in to lock the flower nut.
    4. Fire up the bike, lock the clutch and lift the back wheel off the ground. If the wheel moves, adjust the flower nut again.
     
  6. nonservitus

    nonservitus New Member

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    Hey Ducttapedgoat maybe you can answer this one. I cant get my bucking bar to push back in after adjusting the clutch to free things up. Any ideas?
     
  7. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    First thing I'd do is make sure the camshaft is flat on it to maximize leverage. Also, check beneath it and make sure the bearing is still in there - it might be hard to see, so feel around for it with a nail or something if you can't see. Be sure your the 3 bolt cover is securely tightened down (the one over the drive sprocket with the bucking bar etc.). Try running with the crankcase cover off (5 bolts, clutch pads and plate are underneath) to be sure that it's not hitting your cover.

    There's a few other things that come to mind, but lets hit the simple stuff first.
     
  8. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Have you lubricated the moving parts of the clutch actuator? This is the cam, bucking bar, the pin and ball bearing. Use a good quality bearing grease on all of them.

    You can also reduce the clutch lever pull by smoothing and polishing the contacting parts of the actuator. Use a Dremel with a sanding pad and a bench buffer to smooth and polish the surfaces. You'll be amazed at the reduction in clutch pull resistance.
    Tom
     
  9. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I'm thinking there's a chance he's just pushing on it with his thumb or something, not installing the cover plate and camshaft, which gives you the leverage to work it. But yes, definitely throw some molly grease up in there, dunno it that'll help if you did put the cover plate and camshaft on and it's frozen though.
     
  10. nonservitus

    nonservitus New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys. Like a lot of first time builders I just wasn't ready for how hard it is to push the clutch in without leverage. I went ahead and installed the clutch cover by slowly screwing in the screws equally (I didn't do this before because I figured I might snap the housing) and then utilizing the lever action to push the pin in, readjusted my clutch cable, then pulled the clutch cover and adjusted the flower nut until the clutch spun freely when I pedaled. I'm hoping that does it. Still waiting on a couple things before I take her for the first spin so keeping the fingers crossed. Thanks again for taking the time to answer a question that's probably been asked a thousand times.
     
  11. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I had a feeling! :D Hopefully it's adjusted well enough for ya, don't be afraid to take your time making readjustments if the clutch starts slipping or won't fully disengage.
     
  12. nonservitus

    nonservitus New Member

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    Thanks for the advice DuctTapedGoat. I'm already finding out that I'll be intimate with the workings of this lil motor before I'm done. Reminds me of my VW Bug I bought as a kid that I loved working on (well until it was one of a few things I totaled one crazy Halloween).
     
  13. benger83

    benger83 New Member

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    i have adjusted the clutch but even after adjusting there is not enough grab to start the motor i called grubee and they walked me through what i had already done at least 5 times. the back wheel still wants to move, not smooth and easily but it is not locked up could something be broken internally? i already checked the piston and crank arm. everything seems to be fine. whether i disengage the clutch or engage it the back wheel still moves.
     
  14. benger83

    benger83 New Member

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    well all said and done i had to order a new motor . the piston wasnt seized up but it wouldnt move when the drive sprocket spun.
     

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