Centrifugal clutch?

SlowBalt

SlowBalt

Member
This is a question only for people that actually have one.
I'm wondering If you can take off from a stop without pedaling? The reason is I'm planing on building a board track replica, and I want to do a pedal delete on it.
Thanks for the help.
 
No, these motors have friction clutch setups, and i had trouble remembering to just "dump" the clutch and not let it out like i do on my motorcycle. I like to pedal the bike up to 6 or 7 mph before i let loose of the clutch lever.
 
fritznbud said:
No, these motors have friction clutch setups, and i had trouble remembering to just "dump" the clutch and not let it out like i do on my motorcycle. I like to pedal the bike up to 6 or 7 mph before i let loose of the clutch lever.
Click to expand...

Actualy they are also avalable with a centrifugal clutch and pullstart.
Anyone?
306663155_tp.jpg
 
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Yes the centrifugal clutch will pull an average sized rider from a dead stop if your geared reasonable. I question how long the shaft adapter will hold up to that task tho, it's an iffy piece at best.
 
Every centrifugal clutch I have seen or heard of that is made for these engines is a tapered fit onto the shaft. There is no woodruff key used to prevent slipping on the shaft, and most will slip over time. Some even damage the shaft if left to slip and spin long enough.
The only way to remedy this is to make your own woodruff key keyway in the hub of the clutch, or some folks notch the hub and custom fit a key in such a fashion as to prevent the key from coming out on it's own. The hub is tempered very, very hard and to cut it typically requires a diamond bit or two with a Dremel tool.

Taking off from a dead stop will only stress the connection with the shaft and if not keyed, will lead to slipping on the shaft sooner than later.
 
Ok. Thanks for the heads up. I'll pull the clutch when i get it and coat the shaft with red lock tight. If it keeps the pulley on my supercharger from slipping it should hold the clutch.
 
I really don't think red loctite will do it but hey you never know...

Grinding a pocket in the shaft adapter and using a modified woodruff key is the method I used on mine, it's held up really well for 2 seasons now. As GearNut mentioned the shaft adapter is hardened and requires some diamond type Dremel bits in order to shape a pocket for a key. Also I second the notion that if that adapter slips on the crankshaft it will make a real mess in a hurry because the crankshaft is not hardened at all.

The pic shows how my clutch adapter has been modified to accept a key. I get about 1/3 of the full length of a standard woodruff key in there and rest of the key has been filed flush with the crankshaft so the adapter can slide over it. My modified woodruff key is pictured in the attachment, I just happened to have mine apart today for a cleaning so I snapped a pic.

22754d1270405847-centrifugal-clutch-blues-notch-example.jpg

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mine has never slipped. 8hp to the wheel for 500 miles. i helicoiled the crank.snout to 5/16 coarse and use a grade 8 bolt impacted on. maybe one of the tapers on your crank or clutch is messed up or too deep or something.
 
does anyone of your guys centrifugal wobble bad? i got mine off a guy and mine is straight on the shaft and it wobbles.. the whole thing but it still works
 
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