Carrb Idling

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by jojo1202, Jun 23, 2013.

  1. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    Please Help Newbi. My Idle needle is all the way in order to keep my Chinese 2 stroke idling, but even with that some times while idling the engine turns off. Please help .flg.
     
  2. biknut

    biknut Active Member

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    Welcome to the forum from Dallas.

    Check for an intake, or exhaust leak. If you have a NT carb adjust the needle clip to the second from the top slot. Don't run more oil than 24:1 in the pre mix. Get a NGK B6HS, or BP6HS. Set the gap to 0.025"
     
  3. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    I don't know if it is an NT carb the air filter is black and it looks like an scary skull ghost. The air inlet is on the bottom. When I first put gas in the tank it started leaking gas from the air filter gushing out gas. I took it apart and inside the float where the needle pin is it where the flimsy metal part that holds the needle was bent so it was not attached to the needle I fix it and put it back together and no more leak. I just finished adjusting the throttle cable at the throttle handle and at the carburetor pulled the carb needle out and I'm going to test it now . I will let you now how it goes latter. also you said something about no more than 24:1 The manual said to do 16:1 to break it in and the after break in 20:1 Also I read some where to brake it in with standard 2 cycle oil and then go to synthetic 2 cycle oil. dance1
     
  4. biknut

    biknut Active Member

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    Disregard what the manual says about oil. 24:1 is more than enough for break in.
     
  5. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Welcome to the forum. Miami is where I was born and raised. Haven't been down for several years. Good old town and good memories. If, we're talking about Miami Florida. There are 13 Miamis in the US :)

    Throw the instructions in the trash. 16:1 is too much oil. Reduce your oil ratio to no more than 24:1. After two or three gallons burned you can reduce it down to 32:1 and enjoy the bike.

    Yes, you have the NT carburetor. Make sure it is sealed well to the intake manifold and the manifold is sealed to the cylinder with a good gasket. By sealing I don't mean relying on the metal to metal attachment of the carburetor to the intake. You need to use a good gasoline resistant sealer and/or an 'O' ring in the carburetor throat. Personally I don't use or trust the 'O' rings alone. They rely too much on a tight fit to seal.

    The idle speed screw is only a mechanical stop that controls the heigth of the throttle slide. When screwed in it increases the idle speed. The carburetor throttle slide, or barrel, will only go in properly one way. The short slot goes to the left, looking down at the carb, and aligns the idle speed screw. The long slot goes to the right and is a guide that aligns with a pin in the carb body.

    Tom
     
    #5 2door, Jun 23, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2013
  6. fatdaddy

    fatdaddy New Member

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    Do you have an inline fuel filter on it? If not the jet could be plugged already. The tanks on these are painted with brittle stuff that chips off,(taking the cap on and off,) and winds up in the tank. The smaller stuff gets past the in tank screen and plugs the jet.
    Try a carb cleaning. Easy to do and you'll know one way or the other right away if that was it.
    fatdaddy.
     
  7. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    fatdaddy thanks. I put the inline filter that came with the kit, is that good enough. I adjusted the throttle cable at the throttle handle and at the carb. and pulled the throttle needle back just in case it would of been too much. Once I tested it was much better and I again adjusted the throttle needle. Now I'm able to idle and is much better. But when I was ridding it after a while, of course letting the engine cool in between my ride and not ridding it for too long and every thing seemed to be good my engine started to bog out like the carb was flooding. I just got home by way of the bike pedals without the engine. I will take the carb apart and check, it but I want to get some carb cleaner like you suggested before I do that so I can do a complete carb cleaning and over haul. Thanks again fatdaddy. I would appreciate any comments you would give me. I'm starting to get the hang of it with all the maintenance that is involved with motor bike, that is all part of having a hobby but I'm loving it even do I am breaking in the motor and going at slow speed thanks again. by the way 2 door said to throw the manual away and do the mix that his suggesting. I'm on half way of my second tank of gas in the breaking period with my 16:1 mix. Not sure what to do, I haven't been able to really read 2 door suggestion yet; I just got home and I'm tired but I do appreciate everybody suggestions and reply's I have re-read the reply's with more time but your reply was more easily to answer now but I'm tired. I need to rest and tackle the bog in out with the carb cleaning tomorrow and re-read all your good people replys to my question. thanks again everybody. this is a great place to get help on my new hobby.
     
  8. fatdaddy

    fatdaddy New Member

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    I find myself saying this over and over, Listen to 2door.
    fatdaddy.
     
  9. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    Thanks fatdaddy and thank you 2 door much appreciated. I don't know why I'm still awake. I will talk to you tomorrow 2 door thank you again guys.rmfla
     
  10. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    yes Miami Florida I'm sleep walking now.
     
  11. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    Thank You 2door I followed your sugestions about the gas ratio, I also bought an NGK B6HS spark plug, I opened the carb again and adjusted the needle to the 2nd slot, and by doing that I notice I had done and improper installation of the washer with the slot, you are 100% right that manual is garbage, when I was putting the carb together and was trying to follow the pictures and instructions of the manual on where to put the slotted washer, since I had no idea and never had rebuilt a carb before, it seemed to me that you just drop the washer in top of the needle and that 's how I did it. I don't know how the **** the motor even ran for so long till it started bogging out on Sunday. Now is running so sweet and idling wonderfully. I could not find the O ring or I haven't found one yet they where to thick, but when I took out the manifold I did notice it had a cardboard gasket on it, it will have to do for the moment till I can order a new manifold gasket so at least is not metal to metal for know. (By the way which brand of silicon gas resistance should I use I'm afraid to use something that will turn into mush and go into the engine.) Please give me a couple of suggestions on which brand should I buy. Thank again in advance
    Joseph
     
  12. fatdaddy

    fatdaddy New Member

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    Sealant as a last resort. With the proper carb connection it shouldn't be needed.
    Also, I found a vid on slide assembly. He uses the wrong terms for some things, but he puts it together right.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KNISUKuQwY
    fatdaddy.
     
    #12 fatdaddy, Jun 25, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  13. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    Thank you for everything.
     
  14. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    I'm confused now after watching the video. So when I first put the carb together I put the slotted washer on top. I was trying to follow the manual which the instruction are wishi washi and the pictures are even worst, very hard to see and blurry in top of that. So I was looking at other manuals online at it shows to put the slotted washer before you drop the needle in. So when I rebuild the carb and did all the other overhauling that you and 2door suggested I put the slotted washer before the needle and now my engine is running sweet. So which one is it before or after the needle please let me know as soon as possible because I just bought an copper gas shut of valve because my was defective and I also bought gas tubing to move my gas tank forward because when I service the carb last time it became to short and now my gas tank is position all the way back by the seat. It looks ugly and it's very uncomfortable and I want to do all this fix up things as soon as possible. So thanks in advance. I'm waiting for your reply before I start this gas repair so I can also put the washer in the right place. Me I'm my daughter .we. I went to a motor bike shop today to buy the parts and I saw the different motor bikes installation. Now I know if the frame is small to use a side ways mount manifold pipe so the carb would seat outside the frame so guess what I'm buying my daughter a smaller bike and putting an engine in for her when I can save up the money. Thanks Again and waiting for your reply.
     
  15. fatdaddy

    fatdaddy New Member

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    Needle, then washer, then pull spring back on cable, put cable in carb slide slot and drop the spring in the slide body.
    Here's a video for clarification. The guy is telling you how to adjust the needle clip, but it also shows how to put the carb slide together, even if he uses the wrong term for some parts
    fatdaddy.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KNISUKuQwY
     
  16. jojo1202

    jojo1202 New Member

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    Thanks I got it. Is running very sweet now. Thanks for all your help I hope I get to meet you and fatdaddy in person someday and maybe ride together, that would be such a treat for me, You two seem to be such swell people. Thanks again.
    Joseph
     

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