can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!

[Norman]

some simple things to try disconnect the kill switch and try it. Ohm meters cost about $15.00
at walmart they work good enough for simple wire testing etc.

see if the removing of the kill switch helps also make sure all connections are tight. the magneto coil inside the engine,make sure that the soldered leads are not off on the magneto coil. One wire that comes loose is a bare copper wire, it is hard to see as its soldered right onto the coils frame.
It can come loose or off and is hard to see so look it over good.

 

[GraingerDoodTim]

Ok, Norm just a quick question. On my 3rd build this time with a boygofast kit. the woodruff key that holds the little sprocket on near the clutch keeps falling out. there is no way for me to rectify this. now i have really only 2 options, i think. scrap the entire engine cause this key and keyway are eventually gonna strip, or see if someone will weld the sprocket to the little shaft. Now i understand that that is not the optimum situation, but i have tried to fix this problem at least 8 times. i gave up on it for like 5 months and came back to fix the problem with a vengence, and the sprocket came off after like 5 blocks. i know it seems like a cheap shortcut, but this is really my backup bike and i havent even gotten to break in the engine. so Norm, what do you think? Do you think that might work?? please advise. Signed -Bikeless in St Pete

 

[Norman]

which key? the engine small gear key or the front chain sprocket?
If I could see it that would help.
You might be able to reslot the keyway with a dremel tool and make a larger key to fit it take tour time to make it fit tightly. Have you tried to super glue the woodruff key in its slot?
Just set the key in the slot and let a drop of super glue work its way in around the key you will need the very runny liquid super glue then a dab of baking soda powder dusted over the glued area will make the glue set then clean off the crusty glue with an exato knife install the gear or sprocket and see how long it will stay put. This is a cave man repair less drastic than welding which could cause more problems than fix if you weld it on.

 

[Aaron_420chopper]

some simple things to try disconnect the kill switch and try it. Ohm meters cost about $15.00
at walmart they work good enough for simple wire testing etc.

see if the removing of the kill switch helps also make sure all connections are tight. the magneto coil inside the engine,make sure that the soldered leads are not off on the magneto coil. One wire that comes loose is a bare copper wire, it is hard to see as its soldered right onto the coils frame.
It can come loose or off and is hard to see so look it over good.

Norman,

i picked up a multimeter yesterday and found that the cdi had shorted out. im not sure of the cause but i plan on doing some more professional wiring. i am going to get another cdi from bikeberry however i would like to find a higher qaulity alternative but havnt had any luck. do you know of any that would work for this motor?

thanks
aaron

 

[Norman]

No I don't.

 

[billy02]

I have my carb adjusted as lean as it will get, (clip on the top notch of the pin) and the mix is still way to rich. When I first start it I can go about a quarter mile running like a champ, then she bogs down big time & never recovers. Also, it is using 3 times as much gas as my other bike. (adjusted to the middle notch on the pin). I'm about to replace the carb but I am hoping you can tell me what could be wrong so I can repair it.

 

[Norman]

check the main jet size it might even have came loose or fell out. stock size is about 0.70mm.

 

[holloran]

Norm My 80 cc motor was running good and then it just started bogging , hesitating at full throttle and sometimes back firing. It runs fine until at top rpms. I'm at a loss, what should Ido? thanks for you time.

 

[billy02]

check the main jet size it might even have came loose or fell out. stock size is about 0.70mm.

I took the carb apart & the jet was fine. However, the fingers the float pushes as it rises were bent unevenly & too high. As a result, the bowl was probably overfilling/overflowing & the valve it controls wasn't opening & closing properly.

 

[dschopper]

Hello Norman or anyone, perhaps you can help with this question.

I can't seem to find documentation of how tight the clutch should be. Initially out of the box the clutch would not depress. The instructions from zoom say that I should be able to spin the drive sprocket with my finger while the clutch is disengaged. It would not spin at all! So since there are not 'real' instructions I took off the clutch cover and found the flower nut. Upon removing the retainer screw I backed it off until I could turn the nut. Then released the pressure plate and tightened the flower nut until I just couldn't turn the gear. Then released it again and backed off until I could just barely turn the gear.

Am I on the right track here or totally off base. Speak freely here as I'm trying to learn. Never hired a mechanic in my life but this one I've got to learn.

TIA for any suggestions you may have.
Michael

 

[GearNut]

With the clutch hand lever out, pressure plate under spring tension bearing down on the clutch shoes, you should not be able to turn the sprocket. With the clutch lever squeezed in, releasing the spring tension and pressure applied by the pressure plate, you should be able to spin the sprocket relatively easy. Norm shows a pretty good setting for how far out the flower nut should be adjusted to, to provide good clutch performance.
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motor-bicycle-clutch-301.html
In a nut shell, with the clutch lever squeezed in ( use a zip- ty, piece of wire, ect. to hold it in for you) to release pressure on the flower nut and pressure plate, remove the lock screw. Turn the flower nut in untill it just stops. Do not turn it tight, there is no need to. Now back it out 1/2 turn to 1 turn and align one of the notches on the flower nut with the lock screw hole. Install the lock screw tight, and remove whatever you have holding the clutch lever in on the handlebars. Reinstall the cover and you are good.
Every clutch is a little different so fiddling and fine tuning the flower nut setting is normal.
Do yourself a favor and replace the cheesy cover screws with allen head screws, the ones that take a hex wrench. they make removing the cover and servicing the clutch sooo much easier. Bring one of the stock screws with you to the hardware store so you will be sure to get the length and threads matched up.

 

[dschopper]

Thanks GearNut I appreciate that. The link also Norm did a very nice job over there between your help and his post I feel much better about this. Just concerned me as it seemed weird to get a new motor and find the clutch that tight. I'm just going to pull the whole thing apart this weekend, grease and just check everything out to make sure there are no other weird problems. Such as, while waiting on this post I pulled off the Intake pipe to see if it needed ported. This thing had loose slivers of metal in it!

Thanks Again

 

[GearNut]

Some of the engines have lose chunks of metal inside the crank case!
A few folks do a total tear down to inspect every last nook and cranny for debris, and do a light port clean up before ever spinning the engine over.

 

[dschopper]

:-\ Yeah, after this thing with the clutch and then finding the condition inside of the intake that is my intention. Can't hurt anything anyway. Maybe this is why it was on sale.

This forum is great! I've been strumming through and have found answers to most questions that I had.

 

[yendorrodney88]

Hi all good people,my woodruff key has come out again,the problem this time is when I put a stopper in my cogs to take the screw out,the screw will turn as well and can't take the small cog off,is it safe to hold the other side (magneto)with a spanner and try to screw it out or does someone have any other ideas,thanks yendorrodney88.

 

[GearNut]

No it is not.
Remove your spark plug. Put good length of cotton rope at least as thick as a pencil down the spark plug hole. You want to fill it up loosely, do not pack it in. Be very sure to leave plenty of rope hanging out so you can pull it out when done. This will lock up the engine in a safe manner.

Remove the screw. Turn the engine so the piston will go back down the cylinder a little and remove the rope.

Repeat if necessary when you tighten the screw.

 

[yendorrodney88]

No it is not.
Remove your spark plug. Put good length of cotton rope at least as thick as a pencil down the spark plug hole. You want to fill it up loosely, do not pack it in. Be very sure to leave plenty of rope hanging out so you can pull it out when done. This will lock up the engine in a safe manner.

Remove the screw. Turn the engine so the piston will go back down the cylinder a little and remove the rope.

Repeat if necessary when you tighten the screw.

Thanks gearnut legendary stuff,thanks for your reply I just went down to buy some clean cotton rope,haven't tried to do it yet but I will shotly,thanks again and I'll get back to you shortly yendorrodney88

 

[sligo_rider]

hey norm,
im having trouble with getting my bike to have a good idle rev, the setting i have it on is perfect for riding but when i clutch the revs are to high, when i go to the idle screw to lower it and get a better noise out of it, when i ride it cuts out!! and also when im riding along my bike sometimes gos alot better with the choke half on is that normal or is it ment to be fully off?
thaks man your doing one h*ll of a job!!

 

[Randog707]

Hi Norman,I'm also having a problem with a VERY HIGH IDLE when I pull in my clutch,also I dont need to pull on the throttle for the bike to go it rides at 10mph without useing the throttle,its crazy how high my bike revs when i pull in the clutch,I've tried adjusting the idle screw,but it does nothing.Could it be a air leak? I dont have a clue.this is the first time I encounterd this problem.Thanks for your help Randy.

 

[sligo_rider]

hey Randog mine was an air leak i found it where th carb connects to the engine!! i put a nice bit of Teflon tape (white plumbers tape) around the pipe then slid on the carb and tightened it!!
good look and happy riding