can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!

GoldenMotor.com

zeppelinboy

New Member
Oct 19, 2009
7
0
0
colorado
Hello Norm,

I am having some issues that I hope that you can hopefully help me out with.

I have full writeup of my problem here:

http://motorbicycling.com/f3/new-member-first-install-questions-course-12422.html

Basically I am having an issue with either the rear side of the clutch dragging or the cross shaft dragging. In order to determine which is my problem I am proposing that I totally remove the large gear/clutch assembly as you show here:

http://motorbicycling.com/f39/bicycle-engine-total-tear-down-391.html#post3232


If I remove the large gear/clutch assembly can you verify that the cross shaft should spin freely? answer: with just the clutch arm pulled in the cross shaft should spin freely as long as your clutch is adjusted properly.

If this is true, I need the following questions answered:

1. Is the bolt that holds the large gear on standard or left hand threaded.

answer: it is a right hand thread. If you want to remove any of the gears or sprocket nuts jam a rag between the large gear and small gear to lock up the engine and then you can remove the nuts on the sprocket or large gear the screw slot on the small gear can be a booger to get loose if you do not have a impact hammer tool.Norman

2. Where can I get the puller that is require dto remove the gear, do you have a part #?


answer: If your engine kit didn't come with the puller you can order them from one of the vendors on this forum.Norman


Thanks!!


-Justin
 
Last edited by a moderator:

lilffihn

New Member
Oct 18, 2009
68
0
0
Winona MN (southeast MN)
i have another one...i went to a website that sold parts for 2 stroke bike engines and they sell a 410 chain if i get one of those will it still work and is it easier to take the links out

answer: I don't know if the 410 chain will fit you might want to take a sprocket off the bike and see if it will fit on the sprocket. I have no idea if it would be any easier to break the links my guess is no it will take some work to get it apart. I did buy a bike chain at walmart that a walmart chain breaker will not work on. The walmart chain breaker is not a very good chain breaker either they seem to break before the chain does. Norman
 
Last edited by a moderator:

trimguy247

New Member
Oct 27, 2009
33
0
0
orlando
I'll work with you on the problem with your bike if you can't find the answer here on the forum.
I might be able to answer you questions on a 4-stroke as well.
This should be fun for a big problem you can call me. PM me for my number.
Norman
hi norman i got 4 bikes well yesterday i washed them and well to of them and got water in the case the magneto shorted out is there any way to fix them i checked the ristance on my other motor from blue to ground and was 355 and on the dead ones got nothing did i just short a wire out or somthing same thing on both of them it sucks it how me and my girl ride good thing i got 4 of them i guess

let them dry out good then try it make sure all of the soldered connections are still good one soldered wire is very hard to see and you might need to remove the mag coil to see it. It's soldered to the frame of the coil. you might have the kill switch shorted out if you drowned the bikes with water or a loose connection in the wiring. check the spark plugunder the boot of the plug make sure its dried out well.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

karma1968

New Member
Oct 6, 2009
160
0
0
hamilton
Norman i see you sell lights. i was wondering is the rear light a bulb or led?
and whats the voltage for the front bulb 3 volts?
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
72
pampa texas
yes they have there is photos of some on this forum but just where I don't know, you might try using the search and see if you can find them. I know some of the vendors here even sell fuel tanks that are made to be mounted on a rack.
 

Fabian

Member
Sep 9, 2009
168
0
16
Australia - Melbourne
Hi Norman

I've done a search for crankshaft balancing and it turned up nothing on the correct weight to remove and how and where to remove it from an 80cc style 2-stroke engine.

I am having serious difficulty finding a competent machinist in my area who knows how to balance and true a 2-stroke single cylinder crankshaft.

Hi-res photos would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Fabian
 

outlier

New Member
Sep 13, 2009
5
0
0
Utah
Norman, two problems: 49cc black slant from zoombicycles, running 32:1, well over 200 miles, riding daily to campus and back for the last month.
1) power/speed/torque on takeoff, but ride for 45 seconds and it all goes away. after that, starting is embarrasing, wont get out of its own way and boggs horribly. eventually it gets up to speed, although slower than I've previously gone, used to hit 28 mph. I shut the fuel off, just to see, it gets lively again right before running dry so I think it has to much fuel. c clip is on the top notch. I had to make a new intake tube, to hold the carb out to the side and level, w space for the filter, so that may be the problem... its a little longer and larger diameter. I have also drilled a huge hole through the back of the air filter plastic housing. is there some other adjustment I can make before going back to the original intake? if I do that the carb sits at a cant, as well as no space for the filter, which I guess is a big mistake...
2) ran out of gas and had to pedal about 3 miles yesterday, now my clutch squeaks horribly. shouldnt be permanant damage, should it? just grease needed or what?
 
Last edited:

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
72
pampa texas
You need to see just what dia the main jet is. sounds like it is way too rich I solder them shut and redrill them. Some people on here say that is a no no for me it works very well. I use a hand vice
which is what the drill tool is called you can get these at most hobby shops it a tool for very small
dia. drill bit you use it by hand power. I've also picked up a set of micro drill bit in metric sizes
I'll post a link here so I don't have to go into detail you can see just what I'm telling you about you will have to do a little looking and reading.
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/motorized-bicycle-carburetor-install-rebuild-302.html
permalink #6 is the tool and sizes
I think if you would take off the clutch cover that has the clutch arm on it and remove the short shaft and ball it will look a bit dry. regrease them and see if your clutch is now quiet again.
When those parts get a little dry they will make a sound like cats in a fight, nasty sounding or like when old Rufus has got his tail stepped on.
Norman
 
Last edited:

billy02

New Member
Oct 4, 2009
12
0
0
Tucson, Az
H'lo Norm I just read your post on complete engine teardown, after I finished replacing the gasket where the jug meets the crankcase. I made some mistakes but when I was finished she started right up. I got a complete gasket set & used one for a template to make a gasket from rubber-cellulose gasket material. I broke one of the piston rings trying to get it off (don't ask) so I got a coupla those too. I found the trickiest part of the job was the re-attachment of the piston to the crankshaft. There was alot of gosh, darn & oops!!! I had used a shop rag to cover the crankcase so I was all right there. Still, getting everything lined up so I could reinsert the wrist pin was a bear. I never even thought of paying any attention to which way the piston was installed. I figured it had a top & a bottom & I was pretty sure I could get that right. My question is this; should I have put any special lubricant on the roller bearings for the wrist pin or is the oil in the gas sufficient?
Billy02
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
72
pampa texas
It is a good idea to lube everything up when assembling the engine. You don't want it dry for start up.
 
Last edited:

billy02

New Member
Oct 4, 2009
12
0
0
Tucson, Az
Thanks for the quick response Norm. The keeper went in without a problem & it's secure. I was surprised to read that they usually won't go back in. I have already put 5 miles on it & nothing blew up. When I was breaking it in I was told by the seller to use a tank with twice the normal amount of oil mixed with the gas. Then a tank with 1.5 times the normal amount & the normal amount (100-1) thereafter. Is it too late to put oil in as you suggested? If so, what about another tank with twice the normal amount of oil? B02
 

Attachments

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
72
pampa texas
I use 40 to 1 polan syn. oil sold at walmart. There is no need to add oil to the engine if you've been running it. for break in you might want to run 24 to 1 mix up one gallon at 24 to 1 use it up then go to the mix you want to run. you will notice a change in the engine as it breaks in it will start to run better.
you were asking about lights clink on the link below
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/lights-10592.html
 

Fabian

Member
Sep 9, 2009
168
0
16
Australia - Melbourne
Hi Norman

What method do you use for removing the left and right crankshaft bearings from their respective shafts.

I've tried brute force, i've tried using heat and brute force and i've tried using heat, brute force and bad language, but nothing will get these bearings free from their shafts.
It's almost like the factory heated the bearings in a furnace and chilled the crankshaft in liquid nitrogen before press fitting things together.

I am at a total loss as to the methods of removal.

Fabian
 

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
Jan 16, 2008
2,606
7
38
72
pampa texas
those bearing can be a booger to get off. Most of the time they stay in the case and not on the crank
I do the same as your doing heat, cold ,cuss throw things. I do have a special bearing puller
don't have a photo of it but its a "C" shaped thing that you attach a 2bolt puller to work the "c" shaped thing behind the bearing and attach the puller and cuss away.
You might try to heat the bearing a little and using a couple of small pry bars work the bearing off
last resort is break out the cut off wheel and cut off the bearing if its on real tight your going to wreak it (the bearing). Might as well get new ones probably will be easier in the long run.
They people that installed the bearings probably cussed them putting them on if that will make you feel any better?
good luck
 
Last edited:

scottyo

New Member
Jul 20, 2009
2
0
0
boston
Hey Norman,

Do you have any suggestions on how to connect to the throttle arm on the honda 50cc engine, once the governor has been disassembled? It is a small black triangle with two very small holes in it. unfortunately the holes arent centered over the actual throttle butterfly so I cant do a simple, stiff mount seesaw with a spring and throttle cable competing for torque, or at least I would have to modify it a bit.