Cannonballs Back Into It With A BT 80
- Thread starter cannonball2
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cannonball2
Well-Known Member
That's the truth!
They must have lowered the ratio for better low end for some reason.
Was out on a run yesterday and realized I ride this bike much faster than other similar bikes I have. Its due to the smoothness. I haven't run it totally out yet. Its about time to do so. Expect some major vibes there probably, but the bike is plenty fast for me in the smooth range.
The bottom end is so good may drop to a 40t on pull down for paint.
Thinking of contacting Zeda directly for parts.
They must have lowered the ratio for better low end for some reason.
Was out on a run yesterday and realized I ride this bike much faster than other similar bikes I have. Its due to the smoothness. I haven't run it totally out yet. Its about time to do so. Expect some major vibes there probably, but the bike is plenty fast for me in the smooth range.
The bottom end is so good may drop to a 40t on pull down for paint.
Thinking of contacting Zeda directly for parts.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Glad to share my experience. Hope it the same for others. Would be nice to finally have a decent out of the box engine. Hope this is it!
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
So Got the Batavus moped front end today. Really like it. Looks like basically a direct bolt on. Its 1". I have bushings to make it work with the 1 1/8 frame. Springs feel nice, even has grease fittings! Only bad thing is I bought a cool vintage style 5 3/4" M/C head light that is a post mount. Will either have to trim the headlight ears or find a side mount light,
Even the neat little fender brace will work by moving it up one screw hole.
So I'm a carb man. Love trying different carbs. These Puch moped carbs have shown up on ebay. I bought a 12mm and a 15mm for around $20 ea.
The 12mm will be restrictive I know. But I'm looking for low/mid range with a bit of top. From what I understand the different size carbs determined the HP rating. The 12 is probably the bottom. There is a 14mm but its hard to find. The NT I am running is a 14mm. These little carbs seem to be great quality. The seller even posted the jet sizes. 12mm is mid 60s 15mm mid 70s. Right about in line with our engines. The little post behind the cable tube is the choke.
Strangely the slide is cut almost exactly as I cut the one on the NT raising the rear at an angle and filing a small window in the front. That's a good sign.
Even the neat little fender brace will work by moving it up one screw hole.
So I'm a carb man. Love trying different carbs. These Puch moped carbs have shown up on ebay. I bought a 12mm and a 15mm for around $20 ea.
The 12mm will be restrictive I know. But I'm looking for low/mid range with a bit of top. From what I understand the different size carbs determined the HP rating. The 12 is probably the bottom. There is a 14mm but its hard to find. The NT I am running is a 14mm. These little carbs seem to be great quality. The seller even posted the jet sizes. 12mm is mid 60s 15mm mid 70s. Right about in line with our engines. The little post behind the cable tube is the choke.
Strangely the slide is cut almost exactly as I cut the one on the NT raising the rear at an angle and filing a small window in the front. That's a good sign.
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cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Got the Batavus front end installed. Was a direct bolt on, no adaptation needed. I was running sealed 1 1/8 head bearings. They have a deep taper for the 1 1/8 races to seat in. The 1" seated perfectly just a bit lower, but still with clearance at the race.
What a difference in ride over the springer, $30 well spent! Looks a bit thin after the springer but once it gets the headlight and fender will fill out. Wanted to use a bike stem to mount the bars but didn't have the smaller size to fit so used the fronts bar clamp. Works fine bars are just a bit lower and farther away. Probably leave it that way.
Couldn't use the side pull brakes. Could easily mount but with the wheel traveling up/down brakes will have to be mounted on the lower sliders. Adapting a disc is no problem, but don't want to buy a new wheel. These were high $$. Could relace to a moped drum. May have a look at a rag joint mount disc. already have the brake set up and plenty of rag joints. Probably wont have the necessary clearance.
Incidentally there is plenty of clearance for a 26" wheel with this front.
What a difference in ride over the springer, $30 well spent! Looks a bit thin after the springer but once it gets the headlight and fender will fill out. Wanted to use a bike stem to mount the bars but didn't have the smaller size to fit so used the fronts bar clamp. Works fine bars are just a bit lower and farther away. Probably leave it that way.
Couldn't use the side pull brakes. Could easily mount but with the wheel traveling up/down brakes will have to be mounted on the lower sliders. Adapting a disc is no problem, but don't want to buy a new wheel. These were high $$. Could relace to a moped drum. May have a look at a rag joint mount disc. already have the brake set up and plenty of rag joints. Probably wont have the necessary clearance.
Incidentally there is plenty of clearance for a 26" wheel with this front.
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MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Batavus-Reg...ash=item3f6c451df3:g:qKkAAOSwmLlX8csX&vxp=mtr
I saw this on ebay and was wondering for what you say front end for $30 and this says $99 free shipping. Is it the same part or does it not include something?
I have some shocks on a fork that are from a cheap bike frame and I made it fit on the bike that I had no front shocks before. It is good, but I know better shocks built into a fork are available.
I thought for $30 what am I waiting for if I could manage to have it fit.
I saw this on ebay and was wondering for what you say front end for $30 and this says $99 free shipping. Is it the same part or does it not include something?
I have some shocks on a fork that are from a cheap bike frame and I made it fit on the bike that I had no front shocks before. It is good, but I know better shocks built into a fork are available.
I thought for $30 what am I waiting for if I could manage to have it fit.
scratchbuilder
Member
Lookin back though your thread, what a superb idea transforming the look of the engine with 'the head'.vonderbar! By the way thx for the "holdin down the fort" comment, that slipped by me. Is there an adapter for a rag disc hook up? Do you know if there is a hub mt adt for a disc on the nexus 3sp?
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
They are subject to supply I actually bought one that was incomplete(missing top clamp) for $14.95. I saw the $99 one its real nice if one was restoring a moped but a bit pricy for an MB build. The advantage to these forks is they are a double crown which is stronger. Heres a link to another one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Batavu...ash=item3f71c82c9b:g:8dkAAOSwzaJYAtLv&vxp=mtr
Also search other moped brands. The fronts are all similar.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the kind comments Scratch!
There is nothing specific on a rag to disc that I know of. Am toying with the idea of using a thin type flat sprocket with the teeth ground off.
There is a adapter to thread a disc onto a multispeed rear wheel, a flip flop I guess. I have one, was thinking of using a rear wheel and swapping the axles, but I believe the hub will be too wide for the moped front. The MP front will not tolerate any spreading or it will not spring.
Don't know of anything on the Nexus. There are drum and roller brake versions and maybe a disc version I believe. Give google a shot on that.
BTW a note for future builds, the moped front looks like it will easily accept a 3.0 tire.
Just checked there is a disc version of the Nexus. Doesn't do much for the one you have though.
There is nothing specific on a rag to disc that I know of. Am toying with the idea of using a thin type flat sprocket with the teeth ground off.
There is a adapter to thread a disc onto a multispeed rear wheel, a flip flop I guess. I have one, was thinking of using a rear wheel and swapping the axles, but I believe the hub will be too wide for the moped front. The MP front will not tolerate any spreading or it will not spring.
Don't know of anything on the Nexus. There are drum and roller brake versions and maybe a disc version I believe. Give google a shot on that.
BTW a note for future builds, the moped front looks like it will easily accept a 3.0 tire.
Just checked there is a disc version of the Nexus. Doesn't do much for the one you have though.
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Just got mine in today, all bolted up and ready to go (gotta charge the battery overnight and connect up the wires); ran into a bit of an issue. The U-bolt mounting bracket doesn't have threads to accommodate my thin steel tubing, and the plug boot *really* does not want to go on. Any ideas? My thought was to get a cheap little frame bag or something, and just put the components from the box into there, but I'm not sure how I feel about letting them jumble around in there.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
My plug boot was a bit hard to get on too but a shot of silicone helped. I guess you are talking the rubber part?. Other wise be sure there is no cap nut on the plugs terminal threads.
Since all the components are grounded by the wiring I guess they could be wrapped in foam in the bag to keep em insulated except the regulator. It needs a bit of cooling air.
Since all the components are grounded by the wiring I guess they could be wrapped in foam in the bag to keep em insulated except the regulator. It needs a bit of cooling air.
Yeah, it is a royal pain to get on, I'll give the silicone a shot and see how it goes. And yeah, my plug didn't even come with a cap, though I'm gonna replace it ASAP as soon as I can get it to the auto parts store.
And so I could wrap the solenoid and coil in foam, put them in a bag, and strap it up; then zip tie the regulator to the frame or something?
And so I could wrap the solenoid and coil in foam, put them in a bag, and strap it up; then zip tie the regulator to the frame or something?
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Yeah. The solenoid is just intermittent use shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure its WELL insulated. To get up and running I cable tied the cdi to the frame.
The problem with the spreading the components around is the wiring harness.
I guess extensions could be made to keep the plug n play aspect.
I'm just going to totally rewire mine.
Amazingly I have yet to recharge the starting lipo.
The problem with the spreading the components around is the wiring harness.
I guess extensions could be made to keep the plug n play aspect.
I'm just going to totally rewire mine.
Amazingly I have yet to recharge the starting lipo.
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i was thinking lots of foam and bubble wrap would do the trick, though using near a whole roll of electrical tape to shim out the downtube worked to at least get it mounted (still gonna get rid of it, my steering will be limited at low speeds) and make sure it works. No gas in it yet, but the starter does crank the engine, so that's a victory.
Same here, gonna keep it how it is for now, I don't like the idea of soldering while my hands are numb.
Really? Where'd you get that battery, by the way? I'm interested in using something like it in my build and can't seem to find much like it.
Same here, gonna keep it how it is for now, I don't like the idea of soldering while my hands are numb.
Really? Where'd you get that battery, by the way? I'm interested in using something like it in my build and can't seem to find much like it.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Got it from Hobbyking. Its just a 4s 5ah pack. Cost in the !ow twenties as I remember. I use them to power our Ebikes. Probably weighs 12ozs. I will link it a bit later. Don't know how to do it on the tablet.
Bought a 38t sprocket. This engine has enough low end to pull it. Will change out when I paint. I suspect the 44 you are running should be ideal if not a bit high.
Your carb will likely be on the rich side. OK initially to keep it well oiled. I ran 25:1 mix only for maybe half a gallon. Yuk! Went to 40:1 synthetic after and rode easy. Just now opened it up. Revs pretty high.
If you want to, post your build here(or anyone). There doesn't seem to be much being said about these engines I know KC Vale did one but haven't seen much more.
Bought a 38t sprocket. This engine has enough low end to pull it. Will change out when I paint. I suspect the 44 you are running should be ideal if not a bit high.
Your carb will likely be on the rich side. OK initially to keep it well oiled. I ran 25:1 mix only for maybe half a gallon. Yuk! Went to 40:1 synthetic after and rode easy. Just now opened it up. Revs pretty high.
If you want to, post your build here(or anyone). There doesn't seem to be much being said about these engines I know KC Vale did one but haven't seen much more.
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cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Here is the Lipo link. Actually weighs 18oz.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-4s1p-14-8v-20c-hardcase-pack.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-4s1p-14-8v-20c-hardcase-pack.html
Good lord, that battery seems way nicer than the one that came with the kit.
And yeah, given I'm a small guy (115lbs), I think the 44 on a 27" wheel is gonna be just about right.
A little richness won't hurt, given that it is winter here; so the 20:1 they say for the break in is a little too much oil? I usually run full synthetic in my regular CG, so I could probably lighten up on the oil, but I also don't wanna starve it of lube (even though mine came with an entire spare top end) and seize it up.
I think I'll post a new thread when I gas mine up, I don't wanna hijack yours.
And yeah, given I'm a small guy (115lbs), I think the 44 on a 27" wheel is gonna be just about right.
A little richness won't hurt, given that it is winter here; so the 20:1 they say for the break in is a little too much oil? I usually run full synthetic in my regular CG, so I could probably lighten up on the oil, but I also don't wanna starve it of lube (even though mine came with an entire spare top end) and seize it up.
I think I'll post a new thread when I gas mine up, I don't wanna hijack yours.
Quick update, it runs, and it runs well. Hit just about 30 before I let off, don't wanna break it in poorly or kill myself. Slow to accelerate at first, but I also don't wanna snap any more spokes (already lost 2 on the rear wheel). Dragged the battery for the last 100 feet or so of my ride after both front mount screws came loose, but everything seems to be holding up really well.
Tip for anyone building one of these (or any CG engine), replace all the factory nuts with locknuts, it will save you a lot of headache.
Tip for anyone building one of these (or any CG engine), replace all the factory nuts with locknuts, it will save you a lot of headache.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Great to hear another one seems good! The porting /cylinder really works well. Good low end and high. the 40mm stroke helps too. I looked into the ports when I got mine and the rod is smaller than a CG. Looks like a chain saw rod. I think thats good!
You probably need to lower the needle a slot. The carb as sent is way rich down low. My clutch engages right off idle. Yours?
So got the brakes sorted on the build. 24" disco wheels are pricy. Got to spend money on other toys so did this. Works well. The side pulls worked very well for the speed range this bike is used at. So if you cant stop two wheels stop one twice as hard. The added advantage is using the rear wheel. Here on the coast every road has sand in every turn. The road on our island is basically sand. Have to really be careful on the front brake. I guess this is two stage braking. I always set my right brake to front being an old(underline) M/C rider. This works great use the left first then add with the right seems natural. The top brake is the "front" We will see.
You probably need to lower the needle a slot. The carb as sent is way rich down low. My clutch engages right off idle. Yours?
So got the brakes sorted on the build. 24" disco wheels are pricy. Got to spend money on other toys so did this. Works well. The side pulls worked very well for the speed range this bike is used at. So if you cant stop two wheels stop one twice as hard. The added advantage is using the rear wheel. Here on the coast every road has sand in every turn. The road on our island is basically sand. Have to really be careful on the front brake. I guess this is two stage braking. I always set my right brake to front being an old(underline) M/C rider. This works great use the left first then add with the right seems natural. The top brake is the "front" We will see.
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Yeah, I was amazed and how well it runs, it's amazing; haven't looked at the spare top end to see how it looks, but it looks kinda like a regular CG, but is so different. I'll drop the clip a slot and see how it goes; if it doesn't work I will still most definitely have to lean it out when it gets warmer out.
As for the clutch, mine is the same, anything above idle and it starts to bite, which I think is really nice, personally.
I might try to rig up your dual sidepull setup on both my wheels, I have a tendency to ride on the faster side and stronger brakes would definitely help. I will probably have to either replace or relace my rear wheel, though, the torque is really taking its toll on my spokes.
As for the clutch, mine is the same, anything above idle and it starts to bite, which I think is really nice, personally.
I might try to rig up your dual sidepull setup on both my wheels, I have a tendency to ride on the faster side and stronger brakes would definitely help. I will probably have to either replace or relace my rear wheel, though, the torque is really taking its toll on my spokes.