Can anyone help identify this engine
- Thread starter krygods
- Start date
maniac57
Old, Fat, and still faster than you
I have to admit you got me. I missed the side exhaust. The cases look so similar I don't feel TOO bad though.
Regardless, they are sweet engines, especially with a better slide carb.
Better than Briggs quality, easy to work on but tough to find parts for is what I remember.
Regardless, they are sweet engines, especially with a better slide carb.
Better than Briggs quality, easy to work on but tough to find parts for is what I remember.
Can you post a link to one of these better slide carbs? Thanks.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Not trying to jack Krygods thread but just wanted to post a pic of a Tecumseh H-35 powered bike for Silverbear. This was my first post I believe many moons ago. We had this bike forever but it was sold in a lot when I moved.
Notice its a rear exhaust.
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=230261&postcount=1
Notice its a rear exhaust.
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=230261&postcount=1
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
That's a nice, clean build. I see it has belt initial drive... what follows that? If it climbed hills and could do 30mph, what more could you ask for? Perfect. Thanks for sharing that!
SB
not thread jacking at all, thanks for posting. its good to see different ideas all the time. thanks
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
I was wrong about having 3 H40 engines. I don't have any. One is a Briggs, but don't know the hsp. 2 are H50 Tecumsehs. Looked up the displacement and the H50 is 200CCs. Unless it is low revving I'm thinking maybe it is too much motor. Supposed to have a lot of torque and was used on mini bikes and go karts. Mine are from snow blowers. The Briggs is also a flathead, about the same size. I may still break down one of the H50's to see how small it gets without the shroud and pull start assembly. Don't know how it might fit into a 51 Schwinn cantilever frame without breaking down the engine and setting it in place.
SB
SB
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cannonball2
Well-Known Member
There have been several builds done with a 5hp Briggs in that frame(mrsfan I believe that's right). I think the Tecumseh is about the same size, don't worry about the HP or torque, just use the throttle to apply what you need.
The Tecumseh bike of mine ran a cent clutch belt primary to a chain drive secondary. This was well before MB parts were common so it used go kart sprockets and chain. I believe that's a 60t rear sprocket. Its what it took to get the ratio needed. We have such a better supply of MB specific partts now.
The Tecumseh bike of mine ran a cent clutch belt primary to a chain drive secondary. This was well before MB parts were common so it used go kart sprockets and chain. I believe that's a 60t rear sprocket. Its what it took to get the ratio needed. We have such a better supply of MB specific partts now.
Ludwig II
Well-Known Member
I understand Tecumseh spares may be hard to get hold of, have any copies made their way to the US yet?
http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/p...non-genuine-lawnmower-spare-parts-287-c/1/1/0
http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/p...non-genuine-lawnmower-spare-parts-287-c/1/1/0
Early this morning I went hunting in the alleys around town for some hardwood to make a drive roller. I ended up finding a old beat up table that I could use. It took four pieces to make a long enough roller so that I didn't have to use a clutch collar like canonball did. I still have to go and purchase some washers for spacers plus gorilla glue to laminate the pieces together so I just have them test fitted in the pictures.
Cannonball what did you use for the rubber spaces that allow more compression?
Cannonball what did you use for the rubber spaces that allow more compression?
Attachments
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
I used part of a horse stall mat. Pobably any compressable rubber about 1/4 inch thick will do. Use a close 5/8 washer. It must bottom on the cranks shoulder. You can glue the rubber to the roller if you are only gonna use one size. It will work just as well left loose if you need to swap it from roller to roller. Use a good thick washer under the bolt so it evenly comprsses the roller and doesnt deflect.
Ludwig II
Well-Known Member
There are different sorts of epoxy resins for different woods, if you want to go down the route of total adhesion. I was told years ago by a Man Wot Knew Fings about it, that different woods have varying degrees of acidity, and affect the adhesive used, so it has to match them.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
That's true when structural strength is a must. For the rollers its not critical. I would venture a guess that the rollers would function on compression alone. It doesn't take a lot to drive a FD MB, the ratios are pretty easy on every thing. Especially the wheel. The tire is the stressed element, the wheel, spokes etc. are basically along for the ride. There is no torque applied through them for driving purposes. The roller is not heavily loaded like some components of other drives. Its about the most basic form of drive there is and the most unique. It took me a while to appreciate it doesn't matter what size the wheel is it will always go the same speed with the same size roller. How cool is that!
