BrettMavrik's Production Bobber Frame For Sale
- Thread starter BrettMavriK
- Start date
Re: BrettMavrik's Production Bobber Frame
The drag bars finally arrived. =]'
This is the look I was going for.
The drag bars finally arrived. =]'
This is the look I was going for.
Attachments
Officially Taking Orders .... =-]'
Hey,
Looks like my Bobber build thread has been moved.
Now that the frames and related parts are ready to purchase for your own,
It's very appropriate and the timing couldn't be better!
Some have already purchased as I'm Now Offically Taking Orders.
I know everyone's ready for pricing on this Builder's Bobber Frame.
I do not have the website finished yet, as it has taken me alot longer to
create. I'm kinda new at HTML, so you gotta bare with me. However,
anyone really interested, like the guys who called and bought from me already,
can shoot me an email or call the number on the logo and I'll be glad to lay it out for you.
I'm working real hard on the site, and it should be up in a week.
Thanks, guys!
'Brett
Hey,
Looks like my Bobber build thread has been moved.
Now that the frames and related parts are ready to purchase for your own,
It's very appropriate and the timing couldn't be better!
Some have already purchased as I'm Now Offically Taking Orders.
I know everyone's ready for pricing on this Builder's Bobber Frame.
I do not have the website finished yet, as it has taken me alot longer to
create. I'm kinda new at HTML, so you gotta bare with me. However,
anyone really interested, like the guys who called and bought from me already,
can shoot me an email or call the number on the logo and I'll be glad to lay it out for you.
I'm working real hard on the site, and it should be up in a week.
Thanks, guys!
'Brett
Attachments
If you want an awesome frame guys, Brett makes an awesome frame! I saw his awesome chopper in St Petersburg, and his new bikes are similar, but more advanced!
His welds are awesome, and I've personally seen him going 45mph on his bike!
If you want the right chopper bike frame to build an awesome dream bike, get one of Brett's frames. I may be getting one myself in the future for a build!
His welds are awesome, and I've personally seen him going 45mph on his bike!
If you want the right chopper bike frame to build an awesome dream bike, get one of Brett's frames. I may be getting one myself in the future for a build!
Hey there, Kustom!
Well, I have been in the parts gathering stages as of late, and also the frame received some new renditions. I've been talking with wholesalers on the parts I plan to sell on the site, and also getting the jack shaft housing and motor mounts machined from aluminum instead of being hand built by me.
I stripped the frame of it's paint again to add some features.
The first is 2 plates as a double gusset that I welded up in the corner of the junction of the head tube, top bar, and down tube. I styled it in a double concave curve with a point in the middle. this also serves another purpose; There is now a 1-1/2" space that is 4-1/2" tall at the mouth and 5" deep up to the neck. I have a "Little Black Box" I have designed to hold the Nimh battery dc charging system for the super chip led headlight and led Brake & tail light set up. The new neck space will hide this feature for an ultra clean look. Also, you can cut the plastic tabs off of the CDI and tuck it up in there as well. It really is gonna' make for the sano look.
I really wanted a better, sturdier kickstand than what I have been using, which was a rear axle mounted kickstand. I wanted this bike to laugh at strong wind gusts and also right itself if it was accidentally bumped. So, I decided to modify and integrate the donor OCC's kickstand into the frame as a standard item. I cut down the size of the kickstand base, flipped it 90 degrees, and "frenched" it into the frame at the junction where the bottom tube meets the bottom rear wheel cage hoop. Then I fired up the rosebud torch and custom bent the kickstand itself to follow the shape of the hoop and be nice and wide. When retracted it hides up underneath the hoop.
Cool Part is, it lifts the rear wheel off the ground by 1/2" an inch, so it looks as if it isn't off the ground at all.
With the kickstand in operation, I can stand on the top bars of the bike and nothing budges.
Looks cool, built-in sleek, low profile, and works awesome.
I'm going to prep the frame again today and give it another shot of silver.
Once dry, I'll put it back together for finishing. I've got every piece I need
to finish this bike and kick it to life.
photos to come....
Well, I have been in the parts gathering stages as of late, and also the frame received some new renditions. I've been talking with wholesalers on the parts I plan to sell on the site, and also getting the jack shaft housing and motor mounts machined from aluminum instead of being hand built by me.
I stripped the frame of it's paint again to add some features.
The first is 2 plates as a double gusset that I welded up in the corner of the junction of the head tube, top bar, and down tube. I styled it in a double concave curve with a point in the middle. this also serves another purpose; There is now a 1-1/2" space that is 4-1/2" tall at the mouth and 5" deep up to the neck. I have a "Little Black Box" I have designed to hold the Nimh battery dc charging system for the super chip led headlight and led Brake & tail light set up. The new neck space will hide this feature for an ultra clean look. Also, you can cut the plastic tabs off of the CDI and tuck it up in there as well. It really is gonna' make for the sano look.
I really wanted a better, sturdier kickstand than what I have been using, which was a rear axle mounted kickstand. I wanted this bike to laugh at strong wind gusts and also right itself if it was accidentally bumped. So, I decided to modify and integrate the donor OCC's kickstand into the frame as a standard item. I cut down the size of the kickstand base, flipped it 90 degrees, and "frenched" it into the frame at the junction where the bottom tube meets the bottom rear wheel cage hoop. Then I fired up the rosebud torch and custom bent the kickstand itself to follow the shape of the hoop and be nice and wide. When retracted it hides up underneath the hoop.
Cool Part is, it lifts the rear wheel off the ground by 1/2" an inch, so it looks as if it isn't off the ground at all.
With the kickstand in operation, I can stand on the top bars of the bike and nothing budges.
Looks cool, built-in sleek, low profile, and works awesome.
I'm going to prep the frame again today and give it another shot of silver.
Once dry, I'll put it back together for finishing. I've got every piece I need
to finish this bike and kick it to life.
photos to come....
Last edited:
Shouldn't be long.
I did run into a serious and challenging glitch however......
Part 1 Everything is going Swimmingly, but then I got a Cramp...
I made the frame to accept a hubcentric disc brake caliper mount for the rear wheel , and also
utilize a hubcentric derailleur. This means both of these units use valuable space on the rear threaded axle to be located and aligned properly. You'd think the OCC style rear wheel would have plenty of room since it is the widest production wheel ever made for a bicycle, but after the 5 speed freewheel is threaded on, not so much. I was set to put the rear wheel and accessories on the frame on Sunday when the glitch was noticed. I can get everything on the rear axle and mount the wheel on the frame, but there is absolutely no more thread meat on either side for washers and nuts to fasten the wheel to the frame.
It's 1" short over all. (needs 1/2" more on each side)
SOOOO,
I started immediately digging for solutions. The first question was, what thread size and pitch was this threaded axle rod for the 4.25" wide OCC Rear wheel. My first guess was 3/8"x24. Easy fix if so....just run down and get some grade 5 (B7) 3/8"x24 threaded rod from almost anywhere.
NOPE...
Then it's gotta be 10mm x 1.0 .
Seems logical as the nuts are 15mm wrench size. I spent the next 24 hours seeking 10mm x 1.0 threaded rod that wasn't $65.00 for 1 meter of it. Finally found a small hardware store locally that had it for $28 for 1 meter. I brought along the wheel just in case to the store. Well, long story short, new 10mm x 1.0 nuts will thread onto the OCC axle (very loose and wobbly) BUT the OCC nuts and threaded bearing cones will not thread onto the NEW 10mm x 1.0 threaded rod.
Seems the Chinese have made a new standard of measurement for these axles all their own.
So let's see...hmmmm....it's bigger than 3/8" x 24 and smaller than 10mm x 1.0...........
Such an animal simply does not exist..... or there is an unknown animal, I thought.
My quest for a solution went on....
Part II The Chupacabra Lives.....
Part Dog Wolf, Part Cloven Hoofed Antelope.
I called an old bike shop mechanic that has owned a shop in Tampa for 30 years.
I told him of my dilemma about "It's not 3/8"x24, nor is it 10mm x 1...!"
He just laughed; and then schooling began.....
"It's 3/8" x 26 you whipper snapper!
Been that way since The Sixties when we started seeking Asian manufacturing.
Almost every bicycle, cept' some certain 10mm x 1.0 Shimano's are 3/8"x26!"
"Good Luck finding a nine inch long, 3/8" x 26 stud, Sonny...........Good Day."
=-]'
That explains everything.....it's a Chupacabra.
Jim tells me its' origin is an old British Whitworth thread size. Makes sense...
So now my quest goes on for a 3/8"x26 threaded rod.
Think I'm gonna' give that old hardware store a call again..........
I did run into a serious and challenging glitch however......
Part 1 Everything is going Swimmingly, but then I got a Cramp...
I made the frame to accept a hubcentric disc brake caliper mount for the rear wheel , and also
utilize a hubcentric derailleur. This means both of these units use valuable space on the rear threaded axle to be located and aligned properly. You'd think the OCC style rear wheel would have plenty of room since it is the widest production wheel ever made for a bicycle, but after the 5 speed freewheel is threaded on, not so much. I was set to put the rear wheel and accessories on the frame on Sunday when the glitch was noticed. I can get everything on the rear axle and mount the wheel on the frame, but there is absolutely no more thread meat on either side for washers and nuts to fasten the wheel to the frame.
It's 1" short over all. (needs 1/2" more on each side)
SOOOO,
I started immediately digging for solutions. The first question was, what thread size and pitch was this threaded axle rod for the 4.25" wide OCC Rear wheel. My first guess was 3/8"x24. Easy fix if so....just run down and get some grade 5 (B7) 3/8"x24 threaded rod from almost anywhere.
NOPE...
Then it's gotta be 10mm x 1.0 .
Seems logical as the nuts are 15mm wrench size. I spent the next 24 hours seeking 10mm x 1.0 threaded rod that wasn't $65.00 for 1 meter of it. Finally found a small hardware store locally that had it for $28 for 1 meter. I brought along the wheel just in case to the store. Well, long story short, new 10mm x 1.0 nuts will thread onto the OCC axle (very loose and wobbly) BUT the OCC nuts and threaded bearing cones will not thread onto the NEW 10mm x 1.0 threaded rod.
Seems the Chinese have made a new standard of measurement for these axles all their own.
So let's see...hmmmm....it's bigger than 3/8" x 24 and smaller than 10mm x 1.0...........
Such an animal simply does not exist..... or there is an unknown animal, I thought.
My quest for a solution went on....
Part II The Chupacabra Lives.....
Part Dog Wolf, Part Cloven Hoofed Antelope.
I called an old bike shop mechanic that has owned a shop in Tampa for 30 years.
I told him of my dilemma about "It's not 3/8"x24, nor is it 10mm x 1...!"
He just laughed; and then schooling began.....
"It's 3/8" x 26 you whipper snapper!
Been that way since The Sixties when we started seeking Asian manufacturing.
Almost every bicycle, cept' some certain 10mm x 1.0 Shimano's are 3/8"x26!"
"Good Luck finding a nine inch long, 3/8" x 26 stud, Sonny...........Good Day."
=-]'
That explains everything.....it's a Chupacabra.
Jim tells me its' origin is an old British Whitworth thread size. Makes sense...
So now my quest goes on for a 3/8"x26 threaded rod.
Think I'm gonna' give that old hardware store a call again..........
Last edited:
Welp,
got the problem solved for the rear axle. The parts are on their way and are better than stock.
I finished the prototype built-in spring loaded double kickstand that is recycled from the old Stingray.
Must be my Chipewa Indian heritage, as almost nothing of the donor frame is wasted save a few lengths of tubing.
It really works well and stows away nicely I think.
got the problem solved for the rear axle. The parts are on their way and are better than stock.
I finished the prototype built-in spring loaded double kickstand that is recycled from the old Stingray.
Must be my Chipewa Indian heritage, as almost nothing of the donor frame is wasted save a few lengths of tubing.
It really works well and stows away nicely I think.
Last edited:
Thanks, man.
I wanted something to be integral, strong, and perform another function.
The explanation of that function is coming soon.
Now, to unravel, cut, and form fit this racing exhaust I found....
I wanted something to be integral, strong, and perform another function.
The explanation of that function is coming soon.
Now, to unravel, cut, and form fit this racing exhaust I found....
Last edited:
Yeah,
Like wicked straight and slash cut.......
Unfortunately, these 2 strokes don't give off a very appealing sound like a nice v-twin.
(more like a Pistoff ChainSaw ) =-]'
So I like to baffle the high pitched noises a bit with a fiberglass packed muffler.
Then there is the expansion chamber for added power. So, it'll kinda end up looking like a street version of a high performance dirt bike exhaust. But I'll try to keep the style in the same clan.
The last exhaust I put on the Orange Coast Chopper was excellent. No high pitched noise whatsoever.
Just a deep and mellow "dooga dooga dooga dooga". It was almost too quiet.
So I think this style will be somewhere in between.
Like wicked straight and slash cut.......
Unfortunately, these 2 strokes don't give off a very appealing sound like a nice v-twin.
(more like a Pistoff ChainSaw ) =-]'
So I like to baffle the high pitched noises a bit with a fiberglass packed muffler.
Then there is the expansion chamber for added power. So, it'll kinda end up looking like a street version of a high performance dirt bike exhaust. But I'll try to keep the style in the same clan.
The last exhaust I put on the Orange Coast Chopper was excellent. No high pitched noise whatsoever.
Just a deep and mellow "dooga dooga dooga dooga". It was almost too quiet.
So I think this style will be somewhere in between.
Hey there,
Alot of folks have been asking me about my frame and the OCC donor bike set up program
to get you into Chopperville. So I have brought forward and current the post that explains the
RE-CYCLE Plan. I'm going to have to re-write this someday soon
for a more blanket explanation to put on the site and to send to people, but I have no time right now.
Here it is:
Allrighty,
I'm waiting on a few small parts to arrive to finish off the Bobber.
I am working feverishly on my website which is going to debut this
New Production Bobber Frame & Motor Mount / Jackshaft Kit.
I have Preliminary Prices Set for the Frame and Related Parts in the Kit, but they may be subject to change. I believe these prices hit the target market nicely and are more than fair for what you are receiving; A True Bobber Chopper Motorized Bicycle Kit that solves many problems, is reliable, and is a pleasure to build. A Bike that rides as good as it looks that you can customize yourself; A bike that will turn heads everywhere you go...
I am also going to have other products for sale that I believe are great additions as well. One of them will be this White Wall Paint. I am confident that it will hold up very well. A pint will do well more than one bike (more like 2-3 depending on how many coats you do), so you could charge your friends to do theirs after they see how cool yours are. Just leave some for yourself in case you scuff yours. The pint will sell for $28 plus shipping and a half pint will sell for $18 plus shipping. So you can see there is a better deal with more.
I have explained in the original thread of how this Frame Is Made From A Donor OCC Stingray frame.
It is by far the simplest, most inexpensive way to get a custom stretched chopper bike, that fits its' rider, and provides excellent comfort and advanced appointments. I see alot of these OCC Choppers on craigslist just destined for the dump someday....
SAVE THE CHOPPERS !!!!
Here Is The Original Post:
Prices, and The Art of Re-"Cycling"...
Allrighty,
We are going to touch on my Master Plan for what I am creating that I want everyone who likes choppers to have;
A Killer Adult Sized Chopper Bobber MB (Motorized Bike) that they can build themselves, Which Is Half The Fun.
Problem:
K, Everyone who likes Chopper MB's just loves the Big Fat Tire found on Schwinn Stingrays. So they go out and get an inexpensive Stingray off craigslist, buy an adapter kit for the motor that is available elsewhere, and go down the road. Then they buy the bent seat post to get the seat back further, and then get ape hanger handlebars and lean them waaay forward to give more reach. But face it Stingray guys.....unless you are vertically challenged, (no offense intended whatsoever)
IT'S JUST TOO SMALL FOR YOU!!!!
Don't you want to ride a bike that fits you?
Solution:
Mavrik Motor Bicycles Series One Frame "The Bobber"
- 5' Wheel base
- 25" Seat height (minimum) 28" (maximum) with Pedal Distance to the Seat Adjustment
- Provides fitment of riders ranging from 5'-2" to 6'-3" with sliding seat clamp attachment style
- Spring Loaded pivoting motorcycle solo seat pan and cushion.(Better than any bicycle seat. period)
- Custom fitted for and ready for Happy Time 2 Stroke China Engines
- Custom Isolated Rubber Motor Mounts- eliminates engine vibration
- Custom Jackshaft Option- Yes, you can have a 5 Speed Chopper
- Front And Rear Disc Brakes Option - add safety by truly stopping on a dime
- All truly headache free and a Bolt-On Affair
- The most inexpensive way to build your own custom chopper that fits
- more kewl and inexpensive gadgets are on their way
The Art of Re-"Cycling"
-Now anyone who has bought a brand new complete bike online that they couldn't find locally was absolutely murdered on shipping costs. And then they still have to fit the motor which cost more.
The Wide Rear Rim, Tube and Tire can be found but it is hella expensive, and you still need the wide cranks to fit the chain around the fat tire. These things make the venture unfeasable.
-The Stingrays are out of production but they live on almost everywhere you look. Unpristine examples can be had almost everywhere on the cheap. Craigslist, the local flyer, garage sales, the side of the road, etc. These used Stingrays have almost everything you need component wise.
These bikes are not going to be restored and they will eventually make it to the dump in their lifetime....
Time To RE-"CYCLE" And Save Yourself A Ton On Shipping.
Here's The Plan:
- You go out and get yourself a decent Used Schwinn Stingray On The Cheap
- Don't worry about the paint or the condition of the decals, seat, etc.
- just make sure the rims are straight and the cranks, pedals, and chainwheel aren't rusted to oblivion
- Now dismantle the bike. "ziplock & coffee can" parts in groups and stow the wheels and cranks
- Now (here's the fun part) Grab a Hacksaw, Sawzall, Dremel , or Cutoff Wheel on a Grinder or Air Tool.
- Take one last look at that old "too small" kids frame, and put on your safety glasses and ear protection
- Start Cutting
- I need the neck tube, crank tube , and the entire square tube rear wheel cage assembly for your build
- (Update) Also, I need the Kickstand Block, Kick Stand & Spring Asembly (I'm re-using them as well now)
- Leave an inch of the frame tubing still connected to these parts, put them in a small box and send it to me
- I will do the rest
- What you get back is a Custom Chopper Bobber Frame ready for the motor and all the parts you removed
- Shipping me the small box of frame parts shouldn't be more than $10-$12
- Shipping you just a lightweight thin boxed chopper frame shouldn't be more than $40
This is way cheaper than spending hundreds to get a complete bike to your doorstep,
You are re-"cycling" (doesn't that feel good?) and you get a hassle-free
Chopper Bobber MB with all the goodies, options and add-ons,
and you get to build it yourself which is half the fun.
Everybody Wins, And This Is The Best Bang For The Buck.
(end)
Now, I could go out and get an OCC Stingray for you, but I am going to charge you $80 extra for the bike and my time plus shipping to get the wheels, cranks, seat, handlebars etc. to your door step.....
See the beauty of my plan now.....? =-]'
So this is where I am at and what I believe will be a Great Thing.
I want everyone who likes choppers to enjoy my solutions that make Motorized Bicycling and absolute pleasure.
I have suffered many pitfalls in my Research & Development that you can't even imagine.
Just ask some of the guys that have ridden with me...
But nearly everything now is all solved.
Perfection Accomplished?
No, but darn close.....
When I can say I can dump the clutch, gun the throttle, speed shift through the gears, rip through the turns, and grab the brakes with all my might and come to a stop as my drool keeps going the speed I just was......I've gotten pretty darn close.
No one will ever know until they experience it themselves....and that's what I intend to make available.
(Man, I really have to produce a video)
So please be patient.
I'll have the website finished soon with prices....
P.S.- Please do not hesitate to private message me with questions, OR if you just gotta' have one and want me to start building yours immediately. Don't email me just to be a "tire kicker". I can build frames right now. I do have Paypal currently set up and Merchant Services for credit cards hopefully in the near future.
Thanks,
and Ride On!
'Brett
Mavrik Motor Bicycles
Alot of folks have been asking me about my frame and the OCC donor bike set up program
to get you into Chopperville. So I have brought forward and current the post that explains the
RE-CYCLE Plan. I'm going to have to re-write this someday soon
for a more blanket explanation to put on the site and to send to people, but I have no time right now.
Here it is:
Allrighty,
I'm waiting on a few small parts to arrive to finish off the Bobber.
I am working feverishly on my website which is going to debut this
New Production Bobber Frame & Motor Mount / Jackshaft Kit.
I have Preliminary Prices Set for the Frame and Related Parts in the Kit, but they may be subject to change. I believe these prices hit the target market nicely and are more than fair for what you are receiving; A True Bobber Chopper Motorized Bicycle Kit that solves many problems, is reliable, and is a pleasure to build. A Bike that rides as good as it looks that you can customize yourself; A bike that will turn heads everywhere you go...
I am also going to have other products for sale that I believe are great additions as well. One of them will be this White Wall Paint. I am confident that it will hold up very well. A pint will do well more than one bike (more like 2-3 depending on how many coats you do), so you could charge your friends to do theirs after they see how cool yours are. Just leave some for yourself in case you scuff yours. The pint will sell for $28 plus shipping and a half pint will sell for $18 plus shipping. So you can see there is a better deal with more.
I have explained in the original thread of how this Frame Is Made From A Donor OCC Stingray frame.
It is by far the simplest, most inexpensive way to get a custom stretched chopper bike, that fits its' rider, and provides excellent comfort and advanced appointments. I see alot of these OCC Choppers on craigslist just destined for the dump someday....
SAVE THE CHOPPERS !!!!
Here Is The Original Post:
Prices, and The Art of Re-"Cycling"...
Allrighty,
We are going to touch on my Master Plan for what I am creating that I want everyone who likes choppers to have;
A Killer Adult Sized Chopper Bobber MB (Motorized Bike) that they can build themselves, Which Is Half The Fun.
Problem:
K, Everyone who likes Chopper MB's just loves the Big Fat Tire found on Schwinn Stingrays. So they go out and get an inexpensive Stingray off craigslist, buy an adapter kit for the motor that is available elsewhere, and go down the road. Then they buy the bent seat post to get the seat back further, and then get ape hanger handlebars and lean them waaay forward to give more reach. But face it Stingray guys.....unless you are vertically challenged, (no offense intended whatsoever)
IT'S JUST TOO SMALL FOR YOU!!!!
Don't you want to ride a bike that fits you?
Solution:
Mavrik Motor Bicycles Series One Frame "The Bobber"
- 5' Wheel base
- 25" Seat height (minimum) 28" (maximum) with Pedal Distance to the Seat Adjustment
- Provides fitment of riders ranging from 5'-2" to 6'-3" with sliding seat clamp attachment style
- Spring Loaded pivoting motorcycle solo seat pan and cushion.(Better than any bicycle seat. period)
- Custom fitted for and ready for Happy Time 2 Stroke China Engines
- Custom Isolated Rubber Motor Mounts- eliminates engine vibration
- Custom Jackshaft Option- Yes, you can have a 5 Speed Chopper
- Front And Rear Disc Brakes Option - add safety by truly stopping on a dime
- All truly headache free and a Bolt-On Affair
- The most inexpensive way to build your own custom chopper that fits
- more kewl and inexpensive gadgets are on their way
The Art of Re-"Cycling"
-Now anyone who has bought a brand new complete bike online that they couldn't find locally was absolutely murdered on shipping costs. And then they still have to fit the motor which cost more.
The Wide Rear Rim, Tube and Tire can be found but it is hella expensive, and you still need the wide cranks to fit the chain around the fat tire. These things make the venture unfeasable.
-The Stingrays are out of production but they live on almost everywhere you look. Unpristine examples can be had almost everywhere on the cheap. Craigslist, the local flyer, garage sales, the side of the road, etc. These used Stingrays have almost everything you need component wise.
These bikes are not going to be restored and they will eventually make it to the dump in their lifetime....
Time To RE-"CYCLE" And Save Yourself A Ton On Shipping.
Here's The Plan:
- You go out and get yourself a decent Used Schwinn Stingray On The Cheap
- Don't worry about the paint or the condition of the decals, seat, etc.
- just make sure the rims are straight and the cranks, pedals, and chainwheel aren't rusted to oblivion
- Now dismantle the bike. "ziplock & coffee can" parts in groups and stow the wheels and cranks
- Now (here's the fun part) Grab a Hacksaw, Sawzall, Dremel , or Cutoff Wheel on a Grinder or Air Tool.
- Take one last look at that old "too small" kids frame, and put on your safety glasses and ear protection
- Start Cutting
- I need the neck tube, crank tube , and the entire square tube rear wheel cage assembly for your build
- (Update) Also, I need the Kickstand Block, Kick Stand & Spring Asembly (I'm re-using them as well now)
- Leave an inch of the frame tubing still connected to these parts, put them in a small box and send it to me
- I will do the rest
- What you get back is a Custom Chopper Bobber Frame ready for the motor and all the parts you removed
- Shipping me the small box of frame parts shouldn't be more than $10-$12
- Shipping you just a lightweight thin boxed chopper frame shouldn't be more than $40
This is way cheaper than spending hundreds to get a complete bike to your doorstep,
You are re-"cycling" (doesn't that feel good?) and you get a hassle-free
Chopper Bobber MB with all the goodies, options and add-ons,
and you get to build it yourself which is half the fun.
Everybody Wins, And This Is The Best Bang For The Buck.
(end)
Now, I could go out and get an OCC Stingray for you, but I am going to charge you $80 extra for the bike and my time plus shipping to get the wheels, cranks, seat, handlebars etc. to your door step.....
See the beauty of my plan now.....? =-]'
So this is where I am at and what I believe will be a Great Thing.
I want everyone who likes choppers to enjoy my solutions that make Motorized Bicycling and absolute pleasure.
I have suffered many pitfalls in my Research & Development that you can't even imagine.
Just ask some of the guys that have ridden with me...
But nearly everything now is all solved.
Perfection Accomplished?
No, but darn close.....
When I can say I can dump the clutch, gun the throttle, speed shift through the gears, rip through the turns, and grab the brakes with all my might and come to a stop as my drool keeps going the speed I just was......I've gotten pretty darn close.
No one will ever know until they experience it themselves....and that's what I intend to make available.
(Man, I really have to produce a video)
So please be patient.
I'll have the website finished soon with prices....
P.S.- Please do not hesitate to private message me with questions, OR if you just gotta' have one and want me to start building yours immediately. Don't email me just to be a "tire kicker". I can build frames right now. I do have Paypal currently set up and Merchant Services for credit cards hopefully in the near future.
Thanks,
and Ride On!
'Brett
Mavrik Motor Bicycles
Last edited:
Thanks, man
I'll know soon enough. I have a few more little loose ends to tie up
before I can kick start it to life. I finished the welds and painted it before
wrapping it up with narrow header wrap.
I'll know soon enough. I have a few more little loose ends to tie up
before I can kick start it to life. I finished the welds and painted it before
wrapping it up with narrow header wrap.
Attachments
Last edited: