Bike chain question

curtisfox said:
Yes you can is much better without tensioner, have to keep a eye on the chain for adjustment..........Curt
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Okay because I have this tensioner on it right now and wondering if it would be good or mess anything up. I don’t know much on these bikes yet so thanks for the advice.
A6CB0546-B213-4AB9-BC89-A5E77BE34EC4.jpeg
 
That wheel should have a grove in the center for the chain to fallow, the way it looks now it could be sloppy form side to side. ......Curt
 
curtisfox said:
That wheel should have a grove in the center for the chain to fallow, the way it looks now it could be sloppy form side to side. ......Curt
Click to expand...
Well a friend of mine made and said it should work so not sure on that. That’s why I’m wondering if I remove that tensioner and shorten the chain instead that should work correct?
 
Eman760 said:
Well a friend of mine made and said it should work so not sure on that. That’s why I’m wondering if I remove that tensioner and shorten the chain instead that should work correct?
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Tensioners should be on the bottom of the chain run, not on the top.

Replace the mickey mouse wire on the muffler with a clamp or two.

611918102344.jpg
 
MotorBicycleRacing said:
Tensioners should be on the bottom of the chain run, not on the top.

Replace the mickey mouse wire on the muffler with a clamp or two.

611918102344.jpg
Click to expand...
Would taking off the tensioner and shortening the chain work though that’s what iam asking. Thanks for the advice I’ll get to replacing those as soon as this tensioner thing is fixed.
 
Eman760 said:
Would taking off the tensioner and shortening the chain work though that’s what iam asking. Thanks for the advice I’ll get to replacing those as soon as this tensioner thing is fixed.
Click to expand...

Yes, no tensioner is needed if you can shorten the chain to the right length. Vendors sell half links to help get it right. Also, as mentioned above, if you need to use a tensioner it has to be placed to push the bottom run of chain upwards.
 
The problem with a lot of bike frames is the chain will rub if a tensioner is not used, neither of my bikes can run without one. Looking at the picture it looks like your chain may be hitting the frame as well, remember shortening the chain will sometimes move the rear wheel forward more causing the chain to rub more.
 
OK... Lets take a deep breath here and think for a moment. Common sense says the pic you uploaded shows a very busy and troubling area. Everything is wrong! That brake is in the way and should be a different set-up. The muffler may need to be re-located and at least properly secured to the frame somewhere. The tensioner if used at all should be thought of as a guide not somthing putting tension on the chain. As said above it must be @ the bottom of the run not above. Remove the home made tensioner and wheel, that's just plain wrong. After undoing all that is there, take a wider pic showing the chain run from the engine on back to the wheel sprocket. Your issues (in my humble opinion) began when you mounted the engine. I have never built a Schwinn Stingray. Many others have. Do a search "Schwinn Stingray" Ideally some where is a posted pic of the Left side of bike. That will give you an idea. You need to do this safely. Don't get discouraged. Others have done this. Here is your link.
https://motorbicycling.com/search/10463351/?page=3&q=schwinn+stingray&o=date
 
Also; is this a coaster brake rear wheel? or 3sp hub? If a coaster- lose the squeezy brakes altogether if they cannot be re-located.
 
I agree with Allen, if you don't make some changes you will have trouble all the time, don't be in a big hurry to ride, just take your time and do it right..........Curt
 
allen standley said:
OK... Lets take a deep breath here and think for a moment. Common sense says the pic you uploaded shows a very busy and troubling area. Everything is wrong! That brake is in the way and should be a different set-up. The muffler may need to be re-located and at least properly secured to the frame somewhere. The tensioner if used at all should be thought of as a guide not somthing putting tension on the chain. As said above it must be @ the bottom of the run not above. Remove the home made tensioner and wheel, that's just plain wrong. After undoing all that is there, take a wider pic showing the chain run from the engine on back to the wheel sprocket. Your issues (in my humble opinion) began when you mounted the engine. I have never built a Schwinn Stingray. Many others have. Do a search "Schwinn Stingray" Ideally some where is a posted pic of the Left side of bike. That will give you an idea. You need to do this safely. Don't get discouraged. Others have done this. Here is your link.
https://motorbicycling.com/search/10463351/?page=3&q=schwinn+stingray&o=date
Click to expand...
allen standley said:
OK... Lets take a deep breath here and think for a moment. Common sense says the pic you uploaded shows a very busy and troubling area. Everything is wrong! That brake is in the way and should be a different set-up. The muffler may need to be re-located and at least properly secured to the frame somewhere. The tensioner if used at all should be thought of as a guide not somthing putting tension on the chain. As said above it must be @ the bottom of the run not above. Remove the home made tensioner and wheel, that's just plain wrong. After undoing all that is there, take a wider pic showing the chain run from the engine on back to the wheel sprocket. Your issues (in my humble opinion) began when you mounted the engine. I have never built a Schwinn Stingray. Many others have. Do a search "Schwinn Stingray" Ideally some where is a posted pic of the Left side of bike. That will give you an idea. You need to do this safely. Don't get discouraged. Others have done this. Here is your link.
https://motorbicycling.com/search/10463351/?page=3&q=schwinn+stingray&o=date
Click to expand...
Okay let’s answer these questions one by one, the brake is not in the way or hitting anything it may look like it but it might be the angle when the clutch is in the chain tightens up . Don’t worry about the muffler it is going to be secured better. The tensioner is off that’s why I am asking about removing chain links.
allen standley said:
OK... Lets take a deep breath here and think for a moment. Common sense says the pic you uploaded shows a very busy and troubling area. Everything is wrong! That brake is in the way and should be a different set-up. The muffler may need to be re-located and at least properly secured to the frame somewhere. The tensioner if used at all should be thought of as a guide not somthing putting tension on the chain. As said above it must be @ the bottom of the run not above. Remove the home made tensioner and wheel, that's just plain wrong. After undoing all that is there, take a wider pic showing the chain run from the engine on back to the wheel sprocket. Your issues (in my humble opinion) began when you mounted the engine. I have never built a Schwinn Stingray. Many others have. Do a search "Schwinn Stingray" Ideally some where is a posted pic of the Left side of bike. That will give you an idea. You need to do this safely. Don't get discouraged. Others have done this. Here is your link.
https://motorbicycling.com/search/10463351/?page=3&q=schwinn+stingray&o=date
Click to expand...
The brake is fine it’s not in the way it might be the angle of the picture but I haven’t had a problem with the brake only the pad which hit the chain but I trimmed a bit off to make it go smooth.
 
That is possible. You can try the following if the chain remover doesn't work:
1. Remove the cassette and any screws that are holding the derailleur in place.
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower bracket on.
3. Separate the lower bracket from the upper bracket.
4. Remove the old chain by unbuckling each link, then pulling it off.
5. Install the new chain by buckling each link, then tighten the bolts to secure it in place.
 
steve17 said:
That is possible. You can try the following to alter a chain length if the chain remover doesn't work:
1. Remove the cassette and any screws that are holding the derailleur in place.
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower bracket on.
3. Separate the lower bracket from the upper bracket.
4. Remove the old chain by unbuckling each link, then pulling it off.
5. Install the new chain by buckling each link, then tighten the bolts to secure it in place.
Click to expand...
 
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