BEST chain tentioner in the world!

I wonder if the extra sprocket instead of a urethane wheel would be a bit noisy? Just Thinking out loud here only as I don't know.
We added a Urethane 53mm x31 mm wide skateboard wheel to stock chain tensioner. We just cut a 3/16th deep curved guide groove in it by spinning the wheel locked on a bolt with a lock nut placed in a drill that is then locked into a vice. Using a small course file to cut the groove as it spun at a high RPM. Wow that soft wheel alone made the stock chain tensioner way more silent and smoother verses the stock saggy hard plastic wheel with only one bad bearing on one side. Cheap mod. That Urethane is some tough stuff... sheeesh. I'm going to use a lathe next time...
 
PS" Another thought here from the above post: Takes about 5 min to cut a groove in a urethane skateboard wheel using the drill and file method, but want to let everybody know the groove is not pretty. But, The shallow concave groove that matched the file shape has performed flawlessly as the chain only contacts the sides a bit only and because its curved the bottom of the chain cannot contact it, yet stays nice and centered as we put it on near a rag joint sprocket mount and they are not the truest and always seem to have a 1/16"- 1/8" wobble. Pedals way easier too for some reason. That stock plastic wheel binds, stops, sags, scrapes. I am fearful of having the chain so tight on cheaper huffy wheels and bearings as to be able to use a spring tensioner that hates bump starting, with the then... slack... bang...snap. I know the front mounted Chain Tensioners are nice, but we had such a bad experience with the last spring tensioner that I am a bit gun shy, plus the 41 half links available to be able to get the chain closer to not needing a tensioner have that cheap little micro cotter key to lock the roller pin and I don't trust installing one. Any tips or experience with those 41 half links would be helpful. Sorry if I hijacked this thread a bit, but thought it fit some of the comments here.
 
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I have never heard of or had a problem with the "micro cotter pin" in the #41 half link. This is machine chain from the industrial revolution days. No need to worry I don't think. As you do with the master link clip - feed the cotter pin in the hole with the closed loop feeding into the engine as you look at the top side of the chain run. I approach a bike build with the intention of not using a tensioner/ guide at all. But for some frames you gotta do what you gotta do. See my album happy Chains. for ideas
 
If you must use a tensioner.. run your engine chain tight without a tensioner and put the tensioner on your pedal side.
 
I got some half links in but havnt used them yet.

I figured they could be rivited into chain. Do you really have to use the little cotter pin?

I don't use master link cause I had one fall off, so I want chain to be solid. Would be nice if half links could be rivited.... ??
 
willie634 said:
I got some half links in but havnt used them yet.

I figured they could be rivited into chain. Do you really have to use the little cotter pin?

I don't use master link cause I had one fall off, so I want chain to be solid. Would be nice if half links could be rivited.... ??
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willie, that's exactly what I want to know also... especially for a 41 chain.
hopefully someone has done just that and will chime in.
 
Rivets to rivet the chain ends. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. I don't know - I don't think that's gonna work out too well for ya. Google it. Don't be offended but you are over thinking this. Did you get a "chain breaker" tool yet? With the proper tool (a chain breaker) you can push the pin out of a link but not completely out of the back plate. Place the narrow end of the half link between the face plate and the back plate with the pin still stuck in the back plate. If you go too far with the "chain breaker" you will push the pin completely out. NOT what you want to do. This takes patience but this I have done. With the narrow end of the half link in the chain be sure to align pin to hole squeeze the pin with vice grips back through, and with the "chain breaker" push the pin back through the face plate equally exposed on both sides of the now joined chain. This does not eliminate the cotter pin you fear but does eliminate the master link.
That's all I got. Good luck!
 
The half links do not rivet into chain, the holes are too small for the regular chain pins. Half link comes with a special pin that has a hole for cotter pin.

To make it solid cut the little half link pin, right at the hole for the cotter pin. Put a piece of chain in the half link, put in the pin that you cut, then hammer and mushroom the end.

You can also make a tool like this for better mushrooming

cz003-font-b-mushroom-b-font-nail-font-b-rivets-b-font-orange-DIY-installation-manual.jpg
 
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willie634 said:
The half links do not rivet into chain, the holes are too small for the regular chain pins. Half link comes with a special pin that has a hole for cotter pin.

To make it solid cut the little half link pin, right at the hole for the cotter pin. Put a piece of chain in the half link, put in the pin that you cut, then hammer and mushroom the end.

You can also make a tool like this for better mushrooming

Thanks Willie for the info and knowledge on getting the half links mounted permanently. We will give it a try as soon as I can make a pin punch mushroom tool made, I own every type of chain breaker and riveter.
but these half links I have never used or had a reason to until now.
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I'm not sure why master and half links get such a bad rap here. Properly installed and maintained (lubricated) they are no weaker than the rest of the chain. I've used both successfully and accrued thousands of miles on them without a problem.

The important thing is to use a quality link, not some discount store cheap-o. The master link clip must be installed so that the closed end is facing forward as the chain enters the drive sprocket and it should be on the outside of the chain, not facing the engine. Same for the cotter pin style seen on some half links.

And I concur with Venice. Spring loaded tensioners are okay for industrial roller chain applications where the rotation is in one direction only. Where it reverses or is subjected to reverse force, as in starting, they allow slack when and where you least want it.
The higher the engine's compression, the more slack a spring will allow. If you tighten the spring tension enough to reduce the slack the chain will be too tight during normal running. Ideally you want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack. Springs don't allow that except when starting the engine and then they allow more than you want/need.

Tom
 
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