Best Chain Tensioner
- Thread starter b3anz129
- Start date
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A modified skate board wheel is what a lot of us use. Try for the one pioece style and you'll need a way to cut a groove in it for the chain. I've used a lathe and many have used a drill press with a grinding wheel.
There are tension wheels available from several vendors but most will be just like the one that came with your kit. A good polyurethane wheel will run quieter and last longer than the plastic ones.
You might try using the google search feature, use the keyword, 'tensioner' to see what others have done. There's many pages of reading on the subject. http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...ycling.com/f3/best-chain-tensioner-33176.html
Good luck.
Tom
There are tension wheels available from several vendors but most will be just like the one that came with your kit. A good polyurethane wheel will run quieter and last longer than the plastic ones.
You might try using the google search feature, use the keyword, 'tensioner' to see what others have done. There's many pages of reading on the subject. http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...ycling.com/f3/best-chain-tensioner-33176.html
Good luck.
Tom
The Busted Nut
Member
10T precision bearing Idler Sprocket
just get a bolt to put through the sprocket and a washer to pit on the tesioner side. works great
just get a bolt to put through the sprocket and a washer to pit on the tesioner side. works great
WildAlaskan
New Member
Go with the ten tooth it will be so much better
mapbike
Well-Known Member
I like the looks of those 10T sprockets but $25 is a crazy high for it price in my opinion, built all of mine from the skateboard wheels like 2door has with good bearings and grade 8 bolt, nut and washers for spacing, after 100's of miles on dusty dirt roads they still look and work like new.
I groove them out so the chain rides half way down in the groove, I would be more than happy to make someone this same set up with grade 8 hardware included for half what that sprocket cost including shipping if they live in the lower 48, I know that sprocket is really nice, but $25 is a bit rich for my blood for something that actually does as little as it does.
These are just my thoughts nothing more, nothing less.....
Peace, map
I groove them out so the chain rides half way down in the groove, I would be more than happy to make someone this same set up with grade 8 hardware included for half what that sprocket cost including shipping if they live in the lower 48, I know that sprocket is really nice, but $25 is a bit rich for my blood for something that actually does as little as it does.
These are just my thoughts nothing more, nothing less.....
Peace, map
The_Aleman
Active Member
You could even use an idler wheel from a junk bike's derailleur if ya wanted to.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Yep, I remember seeing someone with one of those as an idler, seems it would actually work pretty good.
Peace, map
culvercityclassic
Well-Known Member
I think 25.00 for the sprocket type is a deal and ordered 3 to use on my special applications. This type allows the chain to operate smothly.
I have thrown the chain three times and caused alot of damage.
Btw: this is for a four stroke application; I never use a chain tensioner on my china girl rides.
I have thrown the chain three times and caused alot of damage.
Btw: this is for a four stroke application; I never use a chain tensioner on my china girl rides.
Do the sprocket-type tensioners provide any better performance?
I actually am still using the stock tensioner. I found that if the rear sprocket is perfectly tightened and if the tensioner is perfectly aligned with the engine sprocket, it won't move at all! So I've left it that way for months now. The only maintenence I've done was adding grease to the wheel so that the chain glides over it better.
I do plan on adding a chain to the original tensioner like here:
That way I can keep the tensioner and still give it something to prevent it from slipping into the spokes, just in case!
I actually am still using the stock tensioner. I found that if the rear sprocket is perfectly tightened and if the tensioner is perfectly aligned with the engine sprocket, it won't move at all! So I've left it that way for months now. The only maintenence I've done was adding grease to the wheel so that the chain glides over it better.
I do plan on adding a chain to the original tensioner like here:
That way I can keep the tensioner and still give it something to prevent it from slipping into the spokes, just in case!