Belt drive or Chain drive?

Belt drive or Chain drive

  • Belt drive

    Votes: 18 69.2%

  • Chain drive

    Votes: 8 30.8%
  • Total voters
    26
I prefer belt primary and final drive for most of my bikes because of low noise and maintenance, no oil slinging and alignment isn't as critical.


image-3.jpg


Chains offer more efficient power transfer and don't stress your bearings as much as a tight belt, so I may use chains on my next race bike. I have one bike with belt primary and chain final.


DSC00824.jpg


I also have one with chain primary and final.


DSCN5602.jpg



After the last race at Grange, I'm seriously considering a friction drive racer.
 
I'll be running chain primary and secondary on my 98cc build, because that's what the agk gearbox and clutch comes set up for, and I'm fine with that. If you want to avoid oil sling, just wipe your chain down after you lube it. That's what I plan to do.
 
Dumb question, but we're do you guys get your belts and pulleys?
I know we're to get the sheaves, but I'm not sure how to get the right belt and pulley?
I was thinking of using the agk jackshaft, chain primary and belt secondary for final drive.
 
by the size of the shaft used.....you can find plenty on ebay....bunches for 3/4 5/8 and 1" slotted shafts
 
msrfan said:
I prefer belt primary and final drive for most of my bikes because of low noise and maintenance, no oil slinging and alignment isn't as critical.


image-3.jpg


Chains offer more efficient power transfer and don't stress your bearings as much as a tight belt, so I may use chains on my next race bike. I have one bike with belt primary and chain final.


DSC00824.jpg


I also have one with chain primary and final.


DSCN5602.jpg



After the last race at Grange, I'm seriously considering a friction drive racer.
Click to expand...


Thats a pretty intense looking build right there! Looks Awesome, if you do change up your motors keep us posted on how they are running and what you like in the differences..xx.
 
I just got done swapping from a chain/chain setup to a belt/belt setup and I am quite pleased I must say! The belt setup is much more quiet and clean (no lube). I was a bit of trial and error to get the correct size final drive belt but in the end its sweet. The chain was nice in that regard since the tensioner could make up for any slack.

Thanks to mr Helmutt for the help and nudge in the belt direction
 
Yeah, I must say I have a sweet love for all pulleys and belts XD, I don't know why, I just like them much better than chains. Chains have good torque transmission, and belts tend to slip a little, but that's all part of the fun!
 
Kestrel Motors Inc. said:
Yeah, I must say I have a sweet love for all pulleys and belts XD, I don't know why, I just like them much better than chains. Chains have good torque transmission, and belts tend to slip a little, but that's all part of the fun!
Click to expand...

Exactly right, I've had excellent service from all my belt drives. Just have to occasionally use chains or combinations when the design calls for it.
 
True the belt uses more friction to work, but is quieter. Also it is less likely to come off the pulley than a chain if gone askew.

I found that out in the most extreme manner. I had not made one pulley in line enough with another. The tension of the belt along with the rotation also adding to the force made a jack shaft slip sideways as at the time I had used one side with out a bushing. You see I had just used on the left side a pulley with key and set screw hold it in place. The set screw did not loosen, but the force had the jack shaft slip through the pulley bore anyway. Then eventually the right side pillow bearing was all that was holding the shaft. The other left side pillow bearing had come out just past its holder, and the shaft scraping metal on a cover shield I made for safety.

Incredibly I just thought I had lost tension on the belt. The scores in the shaft are in an area that is normally outside to the left unused. I replace with new the bearings and added the bushing to buttress the side of the pulley as there is no room between the pulley and the right side pillow bearing.

Lining up the belt more to remove this sideways force altogether and still not have it scrape the tire or the frame is ultimately what is to prevent this. I learned the pulley does not serve as a bushing with the kind of holding power as these single piece split collar bushings. The split collar type do not have the set screw mar the jack shaft and I got them for about $2.50 each, definitely worth it.

MT
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top