If you do grind the pin, just make sure you don't heat up the rest of the chain. It will weaken it.
Any tips for mounting a 70cc on a Schwinn Jaguar?
- Thread starter DoLLeRMaN
- Start date
What does everyone think of me drilling 2 holes through the frame right near the chain and also drill identical holes in the tensioner and hard mounting the tensioner to the frame?
Oh and careful on the road so many crazy things can happen. This happened right near my house. 6abc.com: From the Philadelphia news leader: Car slams into Somerton home 7/31/08
Oh and careful on the road so many crazy things can happen. This happened right near my house. 6abc.com: From the Philadelphia news leader: Car slams into Somerton home 7/31/08
in that case, I think you would be better off welding the tensioner to the frame
too many holes will weaken your frame in a critical area
too many holes will weaken your frame in a critical area
I went to Washington DC the past few days, cool place to visit but watch the parking, them scum bums nabbed me for $100
Anyway, I just got back and on my way home I stopped and got some JB Weld for the chain tensioner. I also bought 2 cap screws to replace the stripped ones.
I will take pictures of the final product.
Anyway, I just got back and on my way home I stopped and got some JB Weld for the chain tensioner. I also bought 2 cap screws to replace the stripped ones.
I will take pictures of the final product.
Hey,
I just built my first bike a couple of months ago and used the same motor and bike that you have. Powerking and Jaguar. Have about 250 miles on the bike and am very happy with the motor. I was dissapointed that the motor mount had to be modified because I chose the Jaguar because from the pictures I found online it looked like the motor would bolt right on but it didn't.
Couple of things; I am pretty sure that you do not have the sprocket mounted correctly. The spokes should go between the rag spacers. That is why they tell you to cut one of them so it can be placed on the inside of the spokes in the instructions. The pictures that fairracing31 posted show the correct install for the sprocket.Those rag spacers grip the spokes and transfer the torque from the sprocket to the spokes.
I also used the 6m stock to cut and make my motor mount bolts. Was lucky and found some 24" 6m all thread bolts at the local hardware store. I used some of the left over stock to shim inside the tensioner mount to make it tight. Also had to replace the tensioner bolts with US bolts after I stripped them trying to get the tensioner tight. The shims seem to work and the tensioner has not moved.
I am including some pictures of my motor mount. I made some extensions from some 3/8" tensioner pins that I found at home depot. The 6m bolts fit snug inside the tensioner pins and I cut them to fit the gap I had on the back motor mount. The motor is rock solid and hasn't moved since I installed it.
I ruined my back wheel and had to buy a new one when the master link failed on my chain. That sucked hard. Had to buy new wheel and remount the sprocket on the new wheel. I suggest strongly that you DON'T use the master link on the chain. Some people say they have never had a problem but I am not taking a chance. Have put 200 miles on the bike since I removed the master link and no problem.
Do a search for my posts and you can read more about my experience with the Jaguar and the Powerking motor and see some more pictures.The bike is running great now - adjusted the throttle sleeve and really got a big improvement in power, I moved the clip down one slot ) but I am having flat problems now. After no flats in over 200 miles i have had two flats on the back tire in 5 days. Gonna look in to the kevlar tires.
The close up picture of the engine mount that shows the red toolbox is after I had the motor mounted the first time. I was really proud of this mount until I tried to put the chain on the chain was too short because the engine was to far forward. The extensions ended up being 1/2" long on the final mount. I also had to bend the muffler a little to get it to clear the front post.
Here are three of my posts:
Suggestion on what to do with the master link in your new kit!
Blood, sweat, fun, now the tears. Help!
Busted rear wheel replaced
Good luck
I just built my first bike a couple of months ago and used the same motor and bike that you have. Powerking and Jaguar. Have about 250 miles on the bike and am very happy with the motor. I was dissapointed that the motor mount had to be modified because I chose the Jaguar because from the pictures I found online it looked like the motor would bolt right on but it didn't.
Couple of things; I am pretty sure that you do not have the sprocket mounted correctly. The spokes should go between the rag spacers. That is why they tell you to cut one of them so it can be placed on the inside of the spokes in the instructions. The pictures that fairracing31 posted show the correct install for the sprocket.Those rag spacers grip the spokes and transfer the torque from the sprocket to the spokes.
I also used the 6m stock to cut and make my motor mount bolts. Was lucky and found some 24" 6m all thread bolts at the local hardware store. I used some of the left over stock to shim inside the tensioner mount to make it tight. Also had to replace the tensioner bolts with US bolts after I stripped them trying to get the tensioner tight. The shims seem to work and the tensioner has not moved.
I am including some pictures of my motor mount. I made some extensions from some 3/8" tensioner pins that I found at home depot. The 6m bolts fit snug inside the tensioner pins and I cut them to fit the gap I had on the back motor mount. The motor is rock solid and hasn't moved since I installed it.
I ruined my back wheel and had to buy a new one when the master link failed on my chain. That sucked hard. Had to buy new wheel and remount the sprocket on the new wheel. I suggest strongly that you DON'T use the master link on the chain. Some people say they have never had a problem but I am not taking a chance. Have put 200 miles on the bike since I removed the master link and no problem.
Do a search for my posts and you can read more about my experience with the Jaguar and the Powerking motor and see some more pictures.The bike is running great now - adjusted the throttle sleeve and really got a big improvement in power, I moved the clip down one slot ) but I am having flat problems now. After no flats in over 200 miles i have had two flats on the back tire in 5 days. Gonna look in to the kevlar tires.
The close up picture of the engine mount that shows the red toolbox is after I had the motor mounted the first time. I was really proud of this mount until I tried to put the chain on the chain was too short because the engine was to far forward. The extensions ended up being 1/2" long on the final mount. I also had to bend the muffler a little to get it to clear the front post.
Here are three of my posts:
Suggestion on what to do with the master link in your new kit!
Blood, sweat, fun, now the tears. Help!
Busted rear wheel replaced
Good luck
Attachments
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I read 2 instructions that say to put the rubber how I have it. It is currently working like that so I dont wanna screw with it
I JB welded the chain tensioner on last night and it worked GREAT! I drove around for 20 miles today and it was just fine! I applied more JB weld tonight just to make it even stronger. I also purchased 2 cap screws and used my lock nuts and it is solid.
What do you mean by adjust the throttle sleeve? (I have no idea what to do) My engine runs smooth when I give it gas and it gets going but at slower speeds (14 mph and slower) my engine jerks around, like engage, disengage and repeat. It really is annoying but I have learned to live with it by engaging and disengaging the clutch. Is there something wrong with my engine?
Thanks
I JB welded the chain tensioner on last night and it worked GREAT! I drove around for 20 miles today and it was just fine! I applied more JB weld tonight just to make it even stronger. I also purchased 2 cap screws and used my lock nuts and it is solid.
What do you mean by adjust the throttle sleeve? (I have no idea what to do) My engine runs smooth when I give it gas and it gets going but at slower speeds (14 mph and slower) my engine jerks around, like engage, disengage and repeat. It really is annoying but I have learned to live with it by engaging and disengaging the clutch. Is there something wrong with my engine?
Thanks
Hold on! You said your "engine is running smooth" then you say it's "jerks around"....please clarify.
These china kits need some break-in time and miles too before they smooth out. Don't be afraid to run it up some and vary the throttle a lot.
By "adjusting the throttle sleeve" he means the cable outer. If you look at the top of your carb, there is an adjustment for cable freeplay. Turn it in until ther is just movement of the out...about 1/32". That will allow maximum throttle with out running the idle up too high from too much tension on cable.
These china kits need some break-in time and miles too before they smooth out. Don't be afraid to run it up some and vary the throttle a lot.
By "adjusting the throttle sleeve" he means the cable outer. If you look at the top of your carb, there is an adjustment for cable freeplay. Turn it in until ther is just movement of the out...about 1/32". That will allow maximum throttle with out running the idle up too high from too much tension on cable.
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It feel like if you drop to a lower gear on a car or motorcycle while going to fast for that gear. It slows down the bike but it does it off and on. So its kinda like someone is grabbing my brake and letting it go. Hopefully that explains it Oh and its not the brake, but it would be funny if it was.
Oh and its not the brake, but it would be funny if it was.Ok now I am getting a little frustrated. When I fix one thing another thing decides to break. Now I have 2 things that are wrong.
1. The Carb is leaking right out of the bottom. Its not a really bad leak but its there. I prob just have to get a new gasket in there....fine I can deal with that.
2. So today after work I was looking over the bike and noticed the clutch handle and the cable didnt look right. When I looked closer I noticed the silver thing at the end of the cable that is used to adjust, was stripped our of the clutch handle. So I just tightened it down and things seamed fine. Thats until I noticed that the cable is nearly worn away on the inside. I even oiled this thing up as recommended.
So, now I cannot ride my bike, yet again, because of something else I have to order....sigh......
Any suggestions on a better clutch handle and cable?
Thanks a lot
1. The Carb is leaking right out of the bottom. Its not a really bad leak but its there. I prob just have to get a new gasket in there....fine I can deal with that.
2. So today after work I was looking over the bike and noticed the clutch handle and the cable didnt look right. When I looked closer I noticed the silver thing at the end of the cable that is used to adjust, was stripped our of the clutch handle. So I just tightened it down and things seamed fine. Thats until I noticed that the cable is nearly worn away on the inside. I even oiled this thing up as recommended.
So, now I cannot ride my bike, yet again, because of something else I have to order....sigh......
Any suggestions on a better clutch handle and cable?
Thanks a lot
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Ok I decided to get these.
Amazon.com: Pyramid Tech Seven Locking Bicycle Brake Lever Set: Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: Shimano Dura Ace Brake Cable & Housing Road 1/Pkg Grey: Sports & Outdoors
I just hope the throttle cable stays in check.
Amazon.com: Pyramid Tech Seven Locking Bicycle Brake Lever Set: Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: Shimano Dura Ace Brake Cable & Housing Road 1/Pkg Grey: Sports & Outdoors
I just hope the throttle cable stays in check.
dollerman
If you still have your bikes rear sprocket mounted like I saw in one of your pictures and the pdf instructions they are both WRONG. you need to sandwich the spokes with the fiber discs or very soon your rear spokes will be going south. fairracing warned you so you need to listen or soon you will be posting how your rear spokes are breaking.
Norman
If you still have your bikes rear sprocket mounted like I saw in one of your pictures and the pdf instructions they are both WRONG. you need to sandwich the spokes with the fiber discs or very soon your rear spokes will be going south. fairracing warned you so you need to listen or soon you will be posting how your rear spokes are breaking.
Norman
I followed 2 separate instructions and they both say to do it the way I have it. I have considered the warnings from everyone but at the moment it works well and I hate to fix what isnt broken.
If I put the discs the way you say, will this throw off my chain and chain tensioner?
I was looking at the original instructions you posted. They are good but the sproket install they show is for a sproket that is designed to seat perfectly on a hub. The preasure is on the hub itself, not the sprockets. You can get a Top Hat from Andyinchville http://http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendID=53429708&blogID=334583408 or a sprockt adaptor from livefastmotors http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310077267271&ih=021&category=7295&_trksid=p3984.m106&_trkparms=algo%3DTS%26its%3DS%26itu%3DSS%252BSI%26otn%3D25%26ps%3D15&BackToListReferer=http%3A%2F%2Fmy.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FMyEbayBeta . The sprocket alignment will be ok but it will be close. Make sure you're wheel is true.
By the way, how's the bike running?
By the way, how's the bike running?
What is the size of the bottom frame tube?
I am wondering because I don't have the bike, yet. I am getting it with in a month... and I do NOT want to drill the frame of a brand new bike! I will make a larger plate with 6 holes: 2 for motor mount, then the other two for exhaust clamps. Also, I am planning on wrapping the frame with a radiator hose, to protect the paint.
My understanding is that with this front mount, the rear mount will not reach the frame..., so I was thinking that I will install longer studs, and put spacers and washers between the engine block and the rear motor mount.
I have also heard that there may be a problem getting the tensioner to stay. Is there anyone who can shed some light and give the best solution for this problem.
Thank you all!
I am wondering because I don't have the bike, yet. I am getting it with in a month... and I do NOT want to drill the frame of a brand new bike! I will make a larger plate with 6 holes: 2 for motor mount, then the other two for exhaust clamps. Also, I am planning on wrapping the frame with a radiator hose, to protect the paint.
My understanding is that with this front mount, the rear mount will not reach the frame..., so I was thinking that I will install longer studs, and put spacers and washers between the engine block and the rear motor mount.
I have also heard that there may be a problem getting the tensioner to stay. Is there anyone who can shed some light and give the best solution for this problem.
Thank you all!
Yeah I could have posted the link. I gave him the exact title and author. I thought "Maybe he needs help in how to search."
Ted