another huskey steel rear wheel snapped....what the ****

Excuse me Gill. Do you regularly use the coaster brake? Over the years I've used 4 or 5 Shimano C-E110 hubs with steel wheels, I think all from Husky, with rag joints, sprocket adapters and drive rings without problems. I almost never used the coaster brake. I think I once read that brakes have to do the same amount of work as the engine in one-tenth the time.
 
I would like to know how you are measuring our spokes. We sell wheels with our 11 ga spokes to hundreds of bicycle shops across the world. We sell them to Fortune 500 companies like Ford, Fastenal, Walmart, Tesla, Hyundai, Harley Davidson, Chevron Phillips, and many others. Never heard of such a complaint other than yours.
Here is a snap shot.. If this was taken care of buy Joe or who ever then you would not be seeing this. I was going to give you another shot and get some regular bicycle wheels...no I’m blocked from buying.I wish I had the Bs emails.
 

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gill vanderwerf, it would benefit us all to have clear concise photos of not only your rear wheel application, but clear concise photos of the hub failures and the circumstances in which they occurred.
Tom
here are the pics
 

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Excuse me Gill. Do you regularly use the coaster brake? Over the years I've used 4 or 5 Shimano C-E110 hubs with steel wheels, I think all from Husky, with rag joints, sprocket adapters and drive rings without problems. I almost never used the coaster brake. I think I once read that brakes have to do the same amount of work as the engine in one-tenth the time.
yes i use the break and a break on the front i don't go fast with the bike ..just normal use and those wheels should not break. and i use a sprocket adapter a good one.
 
here are the pics
and i use the bike normal don't go fast i top like 15 to 18 mph the wheel just locked up completely its the same thing that happened to the first wheel i got from you guys. i thought it must have been a bad hub or so so i did not make a deal out of it and ordered a new one from you guys. well now same thing all over. The funny thing i asked around before i got my first wheel on the forem and several members told me to buy your wheel because they could handle the stress of being used on a motorized bicycle. after 2 bad mishaps i am having doubts and after being out of almost 200 bucks even more so.
 
Well Gil, you have shown us the ugliest wheel hubs of a bike I have ever witnessed. Care to show us the frame the wheels were mounted on?
A person with a curiosity such as I have. Needs to know things, willing to learn from the experience of fellow biker.
Tom
 
If you trouble yourself to read Gill V. threads. All of them.

I almost had a hub failure. Pat of Sportsman Flyer warned me that a poorly secured brake arm would twist. Mine did.
In so doing the twisted brake arm unlocked the bearing cones. It took many miles to cause an unstable rear wheel. Squirrelly. The wheel had undone itself. Got home and gave the rear wheel a test for movement. At the tire a 3/8" side to side movement.
I still have that brake arm.
To replace the twisted brake arm, only came with a full coaster brake internals. For a rainy day if needs be.

In order to keep the replacement brake arm from twisting I fashioned a 1.5mm thick X 19mm strap which works.
My next job is to machine, what was a one year run. brake arm anchor of 1914 Harley Davidson. It was a two piece casting.
Never made again used , likely, it was over built and cost too much. Later brake straps are similar to what i use now.
Shimano stock brake straps are to my way of thinking a weak link.
Tom
 
If you trouble yourself to read Gill V. threads. All of them.

I almost had a hub failure. Pat of Sportsman Flyer warned me that a poorly secured brake arm would twist. Mine did.
In so doing the twisted brake arm unlocked the bearing cones. It took many miles to cause an unstable rear wheel. Squirrelly. The wheel had undone itself. Got home and gave the rear wheel a test for movement. At the tire a 3/8" side to side movement.
I still have that brake arm.
To replace the twisted brake arm, only came with a full coaster brake internals. For a rainy day if needs be.

In order to keep the replacement brake arm from twisting I fashioned a 1.5mm thick X 19mm strap which works.
My next job is to machine, what was a one year run. brake arm anchor of 1914 Harley Davidson. It was a two piece casting.
Never made again used , likely, it was over built and cost too much. Later brake straps are similar to what i use now.
Shimano stock brake straps are to my way of thinking a weak link.
Tom
So my idea for using a copper pipe strap for securing the brake arm is a bad idea?
 
No shite Homer ;) . Pardon my being a Curmudgeon Your fender braces are in a mailing tube. I will send enough SS strapping for at least two brake strap builds. With our forward kenetic energy the damn coaster break arm wants to follow the path of least resistance. My current brake strap has two holes. One tight to the chain stay to for grip and one 7/16" below it to anchor the break arm.
There is another undeveloped area. On my Sportsman Flyer the brake arm offset is 3/4" inch. And drop out width spacing.
Tom
 
Not sure about the OP but Taylor from Husky has been more than helpful and honest with me. He even built my rear wheel (Shimano 110) with 11 Ga. spokes instead of the stock offering if 12. My wheels should arrive Monday. Btw, the front wheel has the sturmy archer XL-FD drum brake.
 
I t
Not sure about the OP but Taylor from Husky has been more than helpful and honest with me. He even built my rear wheel (Shimano 110) with 11 Ga. spokes instead of the stock offering if 12. My wheels should arrive Monday. Btw, the front wheel has the sturmy archer XL-FD drum brake.
Yes , they offer the best hub and wheel selection .
 
Curt, did you take a hard at the photos Gil posted? They look like chit.
You are most likely right about improper cone adjustment. Danny and I both order the same sets of wheels.
I was a Schwinn mechanic during my High School years. I never saw a wheel hub like Gil's.
Tom
 
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