AMF Roadmaster

[silverbear]

I'm no expert on this stuff, you guys. The hardware would need to mate up with the threading on the forks. The puch, Tomos, K-10s will work on the older vintage bikes, like the 50's and 60's bikes. It is a good idea to check the length of the head tube against the the length of the fork (whatever you call it... the part that would fit through the bike head tube to see if they are long enough and in the ball park. Not all bike head tubes are the same length. Ladies bikes from the forties and fifties are not always the same as on boy's bikes. There may be other variations too that I'm not aware of. If the bike head tube is shorter than what fits into it then you should be OK, but might need to shim a bit. I always save out the head tube hardware, washers , bearings and such when I strip down a bike for salvage so that I have an assortment of hardware in metric and also standard American threads. I have k-10 forks on a 1950 Schwinn straightbar and also on the little AMF Roadmaster. Sachs forks are going on a 51 Schwinn cantillever frame, have a set of Tomos forks on my 1934 Elgin ladies frame. Seems to me that msrfan has used Puch forks on his 50's Schwinn cantilever frame Brigs builds.
Whenever I have the opportunity to grab a hold of a moped fork for cheap or free I take it. As I said, I'm not an expert and can only report on what has worked for me.
SB

 

[dracothered]

I just measured my fork tubes diameter and they are 1.25" (31.75mm) in diameter and 27" long.

So I am wondering if I could shim a fork tube that is 28mm and still have it be safe to use? If I can, I could use one of these below.

 

[silverbear]

I don't know. Wish I could tell you. The shimming I have done was for length at the head tube.
SB

 

[mapbike]

Dang did you find some that are 28mm, I guess I missed thoes some how if you did.
I'd think tje best way to know for sure would be to order a head set kit for the forks you're wanting to use and if the bearings and bearing cups work on the bike frame all would be good as long as the head tube length wasn't to short or way to long on the forks.
Im just guessing here and just saying how I might aproach finding out if the forks will work , I have no experience with this mod but would like to know because I have thought about a build using a moped fork set also.
Map

 

[dracothered]

Well I have a set of forks coming from treatland.tv

I will see if I can use the legs in my forks I have now or replace the head tube on them to a 1 1/8" one.

 

[maniac57]

Found you a parts bike!
http://memphis.craigslist.org/mcy/3964070632.html

 

[silverbear]

Found you a parts bike!
http://memphis.craigslist.org/mcy/3964070632.html

What a strange thing to think that Harley Davidson dealers were selling these and that they were the only mopeds made in America with an American made frame and engine. The wheels had thick spokes and French made Atom hub brakes... very well made. Unfortunately the chainsaw engine was grossly under powered with friction drive to the rear wheel. Top speed was 15 mph going full out. I saw a video of someone riding one he restored. A fellow in a truck was riding next to him to check the speed and the moped guy calls out "How fast am I going?" The unenthusiastic response was "Thirteen miles per hour." Stock it looks like something from a cartoon, yet look what can be done with that frame, as evidenced by this thread. The original looks like it was designed by a committee on Monday morning after a rough weekend. It just makes you wonder.
SB

 

[dracothered]

What a strange thing to think that Harley Davidson dealers were selling these and that they were the only mopeds made in America with an American made frame and engine. The wheels had thick spokes and French made Atom hub brakes... very well made. Unfortunately the chainsaw engine was grossly under powered with friction drive to the rear wheel. Top speed was 15 mph going full out. I saw a video of someone riding one he restored. A fellow in a truck was riding next to him to check the speed and the moped guy calls out "How fast am I going?" The unenthusiastic response was "Thirteen miles per hour." Stock it looks like something from a cartoon, yet look what can be done with that frame, as evidenced by this thread. The original looks like it was designed by a committee on Monday morning after a rough weekend. It just makes you wonder.
SB

What it looks like happened and we will never know unless we could talk to someone that worked at Harley then is it was suppose to get a motor like I'm doing with it. But for some odd reason, most like bean counters fault it didn't happen so it came out way under powered. Just like the Mustang II of that time frame.

 

[dracothered]

I worked more on the AMF's faux Oil Tank (Battery Box) now only has one fill neck like it should. The bracket is also almost done and ready to be attached to the wall.

 

[dracothered]

The front wheel I will use, 20" Worksman with brake drum.

 

[dracothered]

I worked more on the AMF's faux Oil Tank (Battery Box) now only has one fill neck like it should. The bracket is also almost done and ready to be attached to the wall.

All sanded now and ready for paint.

 

[mapbike]

Gonna look good......

 

[dracothered]

I got the new front wheel and tire, plus the handle bars.

 

[Master-shake]

I'm pretty sure this obvious build thread belongs elsewhere. maybe choppers.

 

[dracothered]

I'm pretty sure this obvious build thread belongs elsewhere. maybe choppers.

Well if a moderator can move that would be great.

 

[Master-shake]

Also, nice build man.

 

[dracothered]

Ok, so when I get my new hub that I will use on the rear wheel how hard would it be to use a thicker gauge spoke? I know that I may need to open up the holes for a heavier gauge and will need to chamfer the holes, but what do I need to watch out for?

 

[dracothered]

Well got the motor and mocked it up already...

 

[silverbear]

Looks real good! And now it does look like a small chopper. Motor tucks right in there and will look factory. Cool bike.

Drilling out the hub and rim spoke holes is about all you need to do. That wheel is also 20" is that right? Whatever it is you will want to get spokes of the same length preferably in 11 gauge and it will match the Worksman. (Husky Bicycles may have what you need.) I couldn't see the spoke pattern on the back wheel very well, but you would want to do the same pattern as the Worksman wheel... no tucking a spoke behind another since it is too hard to bend the spoke in 11 gauge and being short make it even harder to do that. Tucking behind on the last crossover for narrower gauge spokes is to increase the strength of the wheel. You're going to end up with a stout wheel under you and some real of mind. You're doing a fine job on this build. Who'd a thunk it would turn out like this!
SB

 

[dracothered]

Looks real good! And now it does look like a small chopper. Motor tucks right in there and will look factory. Cool bike.

Drilling out the hub and rim spoke holes is about all you need to do. That wheel is also 20" is that right? Whatever it is you will want to get spokes of the same length preferably in 11 gauge and it will match the Worksman. (Husky Bicycles may have what you need.) I couldn't see the spoke pattern on the back wheel very well, but you would want to do the same pattern as the Worksman wheel... no tucking a spoke behind another since it is too hard to bend the spoke in 11 gauge and being short make it even harder to do that. Tucking behind on the last crossover for narrower gauge spokes is to increase the strength of the wheel. You're going to end up with a stout wheel under you and some real of mind. You're doing a fine job on this build. Who'd a thunk it would turn out like this!
SB

Well the yahoo's over in mopedarmy.com don't think it's cool the way you and I agree about this little bike. The back wheel is a 20" x 4 1/4" and has a 3 cross pattern on it. I notice that the Worksman doesn't cross under the last spoke and with what you said make sense about that.