The point is, modern engines still have a constant supply of oil on their cranks, regardless of how the oil is supplied. If that dipper actually does fling oil straight onto the journal (I really don't think that is the word for the weights, but rather the part the bushing turns on) then having oil falling directly on top of that should be a better method of lubrication. I may be able to delete that dipper, and reduce the drag from the oil. I have heard of those things snapping off after some time, so I want to remove that possibility of failure asap. I still need to do the governor delete though, but I can't do that until I have a tach. I'm not running 5800 without that flywheel and stainless steel rod.Im guessing you're meaning "crank journal" when you mention "counterweight". The rod's scooper dumps oil onto itself and the journal.
Boy do i agree with this, you will be spending a lot of extra money to blow your engine, and gain nothing. Unless you can drill the rod, crank, and all the related parts, to be feed oil, you will lose it. This is a small engine and not a car engine. The slinger oil system was designed 100 years ago, and some are still running today...............CurtThere is literally a storm going on in the engine crankcase. Oil and vapors are constantly being whipped everywhere.
Do you REALLY think your gravity/electric pump-fed device will allow you to get rid of that oil dipper?
The crankshaft runs the length of the crankcase.
Where exactly will you drip oil onto the crank?
Don't forget the oil storm AND crankcase pressure that's resisting your dripping oil-feed.
Don't forget that the dipper also flings oil onto the underside of the piston, thereby cooling and transferring heat from the hottest part of the engine.
Your invention will not cool the piston, and your engine will seize, if you delete the oil slinger.
The dipper is known in the engine world as an oil slinger. If it wasn't needed, the manufacturer wouldn't put it there.
If your invention succeeds, then you'll prove what a great job that dipper is doing.
How much more equipment is needed to replace an appendage that doesn't cost the manufacturer a penny to make or maintain?
How much power do you intend to gain? 1% 5%? 50%?
You intend to run a cooler too. That, along with a filter will require a powerful oil pump. If the pump sucks the crankcase too low, your engine will fail.
Do NOT!! remove your engine oil sensor. It will save your engine, alerting you of impending engine failure.
You'll also need an oil temperature gauge.
It's gonna get hot in there!
Dude, using a baster sounds like so much mess. I don't think you quite understand how I'm going about this: I don't intend to install this system and run the exact same amount of oil, no. That's suicide. I will be adding oil while I run the pump for the first time, as the lines and filter fill. Like I said, the engine will be in a somewhat overfilled condition once the pump is installed and turned off. This also isn't running the entire time the engine is, it's only running once every couple hours for a couple minutes, or as heat requires if I install the cooler.Your engine could breathe from anywhere on it, like the governor post hole, oil sensor wire hole, even the oil filler holes.
Here's a simple, cheap, easy, trouble-free way of filtering your oil:
Use a turkey baster to suck out all the hot oil. Engine off, of course.
Run the oil thru a new roll of toilet paper, or an automotive fuel or oil filter.
Drain, then pour the oil back into the engine.
You seem like a young man who needs to learn a lot more about 4-stroke engines.
I'll bet money you'll destroy your engine with this idea of yours.
Again, a lot of good points. You seem to forget though that my engine is mounted with a decline to the front, so my oil sensor is actually sitting higher than normal. Even if the oil level goes low enough to trigger the light, there is still enough in there to provide crankshaft lubrication and piston cooling, even if just barely. Maybe if I added a check valve in combination with the filter's anti-drainback valve, I could keep the engine from going into an overfilled state once the lines are full and the pump is shut off. In addition, I could run the filter outlet line so it acts like a sink trap, but in reverse.Hmmm....
Firstly, a pint is a half quart, not a quarter quart.
Secondly, I'm not saying to suck that oil out in the middle of nowhere. I'm suggesting this to be like a typical oil change at home or a convenient location, as often as you like.
Thirdly, by the time your engine light goes on, the damage is done.
Fourthly, what you propose is NOT a closed-loop system. Closed-loop is pressurized throughout the system.
Yours is not pressurized, if you have it dripping out on the crank.
It's also common knowledge among motorheads world that too much oil in an engine is worse than insufficient.
Besides blowing oil thru the seals, too much oil will rob hp from crank slosh, when the counterweights and rod journal plows thru the excess oil.
The component that will kill your engine is the oil pump. Unless your engine side cover is transparent with graduated oil measurement markings, you have absolutely no idea how much oil is in the crankcase while idling. Too much or too little.
And you'll never know how much oil is in there while riding.
FYI, a low-volume pump sucks 35 gallons/hour, or about 74 ounces/minute.
That means this pump can suck your engine completely dry in less than 10 seconds.
Are you willing to spend $200 or more on your oi pump, hose, fittings, cooler and a replacement engine?
With your limited income, you can't afford to fix your expensive mistakes.
Why take a chance?
Even if your engine lives, no one here will say "That's a GREAT idea! I think I'll do the same with my engine!"
Turkey baster? Yes, a few members here have mentioned draining their oil with the baster. It makes sense; I'll try it.
Turkey baster and oil filter? I bet you someone here is wiling to try it. I am.
If not turkey baster, then a plastic syphon from Auto Zone.
You get the idea.
If your dad has many years experience behind him, you should run your idea past him.
Just my opinion, I predict engine failure.
Ah, ok. Thanks for explaining that. It makes sense now." I am STILL sitting here wondering how the **** any pump, regardless of how powerful, can cause my engine oil to deplete simply by running the pump, even when that oil is being returned to the sump at the same rate once the system is stabilized."
Pumps suck by the gallons. A 35- gallon pump pushes 4,480 ounces.
You have 12 ounces of oil in your crankcase.
Think about that.
The flow rate of return oil is ALWAYS less than the withdrawal rate, ESPECIALLY in an open loop/unpressurized system. This is due to the loss of flow due to gravity, resistance from the hoses' length and size, fittings, filtering and the cooler's passages. If the oil flowed into and out of the cooler too quickly, it wouldn't have the time for the oil to cool down.
"Even if I have to reduce the current or voltage of the pump to keep the flow rate down, I want to ensure the lowest possible amount of wear..... "
How are you going to accurately reduce current or voltage? That means you're gonna have varistors(Google that) and a voltage gauge?
What will be the optimal flow rate? Trial and error, I suppose?
You're in over your head. You need a LOT more knowledge on basic principles of physics, and how basic equipment work. You have limited money to finance this project and pay for that replacement engine you'll need.
The reason why I want to do this is because the last time I changed my oil before replacing the engine, it was still black with a lot of shavings floating around in it, as if it were charcoal black metallic paint. I know the black is just soot in the oil. It was the 5th oil change and it hadn't been in the engine for more than 50 miles. The engine is less than 500 miles old. The cylinder sleeve was in perfect condition when I checked it. I only removed the side cover on that engine to drain all the oil out of it, which somehow had gas in it.Geez guys. Such big paragraphs for such a simple topic. Stock oiling setup and valve cover pcv/filter combo work a charm. DONT MESS WITH IT. Try this: Stop talking about it. Open oil return hole between the lifters to at least .070”. You might need a pin vise to hold a little drill to reach it. Suggest you do this upside down if you wanna leave the side cover in place. Tighten all the bolts, hit it with your purse a couple times for good luck, then start it up and send it... change oil after the first 20 miles, then every 2000 miles.