40 mile trip EPIC FAIL.. Please Help

and I will testify that Manic is Right better than new I've broken my studs several times with my shift kit and replaced them. Got tired of it and drilled out and tap to 5/16" to put stainless bolts and no more problems for me .dnut
 
K, the fuel filter being reversed is not a big deal. Just means it will need to be replaced sooner as all the gunk will collect in one place like a coffee filter as opposed to cascading over a Christmas tree shape. At least 9 out of ten folks just learning small engines do just what you did and it really does not matter much except for having to replace the $2 part sooner and eventually some power loss.

I would not suggest using stainless studs as stainless is very brittle. Auto grade studs are cheaper and better suited for application. IMVHO. LOL, but with questions such as this, I ask Tom. (I just learned that fasteners can actually stretch. Blew me wee lil brain)
 
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Man, this bike has been a labor of love. My Chaim finally stretched. So I gotta get a chain breaker and shorten it by about three links, no matter how I adjust the riser, it's still got too much slack. What I've learned is that you no one will build something with the level or detail you will.

I had help on this bike.. I got the next on
 
One of my favorite parts about our crazy addiction is the learning opportunity. Aside from the wrenching there is physics and complex math.

It really is a labor of love. When your done, (they are never done) you build another with new and proudly gained, hard won knowledge and confidence. Which of course goes horribly wrong but #3 works out so much better, lol.

K, some time let be bore you with the $3 bushing story, that so far has cost me $1,600+ and I still have not made the dang part!
 
just got done reading this whole post. Personalty I would not use any loc tite I never have on a build and after very long rides rarely had a lose nut or bolt. All that said if I was to use loc tite it would be either red or blue but the best fix for nuts that do losen up is a 2nd nut. with to nuts on one stud the 2nd one locking the first one down you will never get a lose nut. its a trick I use to use on high horse power auto exhaust all the time.

one thing I can say is its always good to see someone learning something new and even though I owned my own auto repair shop for about 10 years I learn something new here almost every day and I have to love it.
 
This bike is a daily driver for various reasons. When it works, it's the most fuel efficient thing of beauty on the planet. When it doesn't. It is The most loathsome metal beast.
But this morning after replacing the filter and line, I rode it.. It was a great ride. I took my time.. No WOT. I was probably between 15-18 on the hills (Stock setup). Then later the chain stretched and got caught in the hoising again.. Didn't break the chain this time.. But. I need a chain break tool.

Oh well
 
what chain are you using the stock one? if so Id advise at min to get at least a 415hd but go a little better and get you a 41 chain you will love it I road my bike before I sold it with a 41 chain on it for about 500 miles and it did not stretch at all and I tend to ride hard everywhere.
 
Oh.. Concerning the rear engi pen mount. I took metal wire and wrapped it around the frame and the engine. It squared things up until I'm able to get new bolts..
 
go to the auto sectiom at your local wally world an get the blue threadlocker loctite
an when breaking in your engine be easy for the first few hundred miles its made in china you deff wanna make sure everything stays secure also it take like 400 miles for your engine to fully function correctly
 
Scott.D.Lang said:
what chain are you using the stock one? if so Id advise at min to get at least a 415hd but go a little better and get you a 41 chain you will love it I road my bike before I sold it with a 41 chain on it for about 500 miles and it did not stretch at all and I tend to ride hard everywhere.
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Man.. I Upgraded to exactly that chain. 415.
 
Aric said:
go to the auto sectiom at your local wally world an get the blue threadlocker loctite
an when breaking in your engine be easy for the first few hundred miles its made in china you deff wanna make sure everything stays secure also it take like 400 miles for your engine to fully function correctly
Click to expand...

Picked up blue yesterday.. I also check everything after each ride.
 
I use loctite because it works and before using it I lost screws and studs that were very tight and double nutted, had one screw get loose in the last three years after starting to use loctiteon everything, to me its like saying I dont have insurance because bad things just dont happen to me..... loctite is nothing more than insurance against a potential problem, may work without it but with it th odds are more in your favor that it will when us d on engine that have the kind of vibes most of these do.

Map
 
map I dont blame anyone for using it and Ive used it myself in the past but as I said I personalty dont use it I have ( on auto engines ) seen it cause more problems then it solved.
one question map when you dubbled nutted did the nuts come lose or did it come out of the block?
 
I cant say 100% for sure but Id guess since it dont have HD at the end of it most likely its not a HD ( heavy duty ). any chain is going to stretch a little but even when I ran the stock chain it only stretched about 2 links. That said I only ran a stock 415 about 500 miles and had many other problems with it other then stretching lol
 
Scott.D.Lang said:
map I dont blame anyone for using it and Ive used it myself in the past but as I said I personalty dont use it I have ( on auto engines ) seen it cause more problems then it solved.
one question map when you dubbled nutted did the nuts come lose or did it come out of the block?
Click to expand...

It seems that the studs backed out of the case, only place I didn't use loctite was studs into case, had to tighten them again today after a 25 mile ride, if they loosen again they will come out and get some thread locker on them.

New studs will be made up when I have my Puch head ready to mount up on this engine, the studs that are currently in it are just the stock ones, which normally are fine, never had an isue with them in the past, but they're longer than they need to be so if I'm gonna be cutting on studs, it will be on the Hi Grade 8mm all thread I have sitting in the corner I ordered from McMaster Carr last month.

I've even used just a dab of the Red thread locker on some rear mounting studs that kept backing out, that was around three years ago and that engine ain't had a wrench on it since other than checking spark plug and just general maintenance and cleaning.

Map
 
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