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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Krealitygroup, Aug 18, 2013.
This thread may help:
biggest diff in whether mounting bolts need a lot or a little tightening is the bolts used
kit mounts - tighten before every ride if needed
8.8 or better mounts may never need tightening with or without loctite
K, this is an amazing thread. I don't think we could get 99% of folks here to agree round wheels work best and you have better then that saying to use blue loctite. I have been a member since '08 and a mod since just after some one lost a bet. (that is 27 and a half yrs in dog and 300 in internet years) and not once have I seen such Omani answer or concern.
So, vested by the voices in my head, I dub thee "Special K"
because calling you "Special Ed" would be wrong.
Wow.. uh.. hmm. Thanks.
In all honesty. I really appreciate all yall folks for answering my most newb'ish questions. Most internet forums are full of teenagers griping about $1000 rims they don't own. Yall on ur stuff for real!
So per yall's instruction:
1: One, realized that the rear clamp bolts were stripped out.. I'm replacing them both. The friend who built it also rednecked (no offense) the bolt legnth by adding 2 nuts and a washer. I'll be simply getting the right size from jump, with stronger gauge steel.
I'm want to make a steel wire cage to close in the engine, so if things wobble aloose again (hopefully loctite works) I'll be able to simply pedal home to fix without worrying about the engine coming off. Could simply cut chicken wire to size, and clamp to frame.. Just a emergency backup.
2: Hitting autozone tomorrow for that fuel line and clamps.
I called some guys at Fat Tire Brother's Bicycle Shop in Kansas IL. They were cool as ice.. Really put it to me straight., "You gotta do some wrenchin' with these bikes" "Ain't no way around it".
I asked about 4 stroke vs 2 stroke for long distance.. He said "Dude, 4 stokes have their issues to." It all depends on the money you want to spend. Real talk.
Thanks again yall.. I'm learning
I lol'd at this post.
Hey, I fit half of that description!
The nuts will try and come loose after a while, like crassius said, they stretch with the heat cycling crap. Mine quit after about 75 mi finally. God that was a terrible time. Hated it.
Personally, as for the near-constant wrenching on these things, that sounds about right. Once everything is broken in you'll be adjusting/fixing/checking crap every 100 mi or so. I've got over 350mi on mine, and the rear wheel and clutch aren't playing nice.
Just the name of the game.
These little 2 stroke engines can be a HUGE pain in the ass until you've got them running right. If you're like the rest of us, they'll piss you off until everything is good.
Then you can't wipe that stupid grin off your face.
Hang in there.
I'd rather spend a little money and more time on a $400 machine....
....than spend a lot of money and a little time on a $7500 machine.
I am in a fortunate situation where I can easily afford to have whatever kind of bike/scooter/motorcycle that I choose to get. This little motored bicycle is, quite honestly, the most fun I've had with a piece of machinery in a very long time!
Best of luck with your project!
As it has been said many many times, these engines are a crap shoot, my oldest engine and bike has 2000+miles now, dont remember the last time anything on it needed adjusting, it starts and goes every time and no matter how hard or how easy I ride it it stays together, not my smoothest or fastest bime but its the bullet proof one for sure so far.
Build the bike right so that it is all safe and secure, tune your engin well and just ride it till it dont go anymore..... of coarse maintenance is key, give evrything a good looking over before you head out and you can catch many issues before they create a huge problem
I concur map .
Thanks again everybody.
I hit home depot today to try to replace the rear screws for the engine mount. My father is a carpenter, so he knows when something aint built right.
The screws that came with the rear mount were long, and actually broke off inside the housing. So... even after replacing the srews, they wont get into the engine housing enough to thread. So I took metal mesh, and made a "birdcage" to keep the engine from falling on the ground in the likely event the front mount breaks..
So, all that remains is clamping the fuel line.. Then I'm good. It's a short walk to autozone, and we're golden. Took a short ride and the line came off again.. No issue..
Until Next Time
take the engine off that bike, drill and use an eaze out to get those broken studs out of your engine and replace them with better quality hardware, you must have the rear of that engine securely mounted to be safe, yes you will break the front mount and the engine falling on the ground is your least worry, don't be riding that bike around without it being mounted up right on the bike frame, and that fuel line issue better get fixed before you end up going up in flames from a fire ball that could happen if that fuel leak catches fire from a spark of any kind.
You don't get these things done right you are really risking life and limb riding that bike........ don't take chances plenty of info right here that will give you all the knowledge you need to get your bike set up right and as safe as it can be.
The son of Bob Via , on today show we're going to demonstrate the proper way to glue a motorbike together . LMAO
K, Map is giving you great and true advise there. It is a major PITB, but, well worth the time and money. I have had an engine try and jump ship doing 30 MPH. The rear, left stud failed. No major spill or any thing but not real fun either Did bend the chain. ........
....The fuel thing is absolutely a huge deal. The joint where the muffler bolts to the engine is around 500F.
On a cell phone and it don't like long posts but these really need to be addressed, Buddy.
Remember, you are not just special. You're special K.
get the broken studs out or get a new engine
there's little you can cobble together that will hold it in place
Thanks.. You better believe that those studs are coming out.. I aint buying a new engine.. Unless I'm building a backup bike..
I'll take the Special K moniker. I'm learning.
I dealt with the fuel issue. See attached pic. New fuel line with clamps, and larger filter. I had a problem getting the bottom clamp to fit on the nipple, but I think I got it.. I almost could lift the bike with the fuel line, so It's gotta be tight (didn't do it though)
I will have to find some way to weld together a mount. I got $500 in this bike from ground zero already. I can't afford another engine unless the one I have doesn't work.
This is fun.. Any skill worth having costs something.
Search broken engine studs to learn how this minor problem can be fixed as good or better than new.
That's real talk.. I appreciate it
Your fuel filter is back words....
hahahaha.. heck naw.. lemme turn that around... LMBO.. Now I really feel "special"