35-40 MPH, Really?

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uh oh!!! me too!!!
 

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I hit 28 mph on my Dax 70cc with a 40 tooth sprocket. I'm currently running 26 x 2.125 knobby tires. I'm planning to get some smaller hybrid style tires to hopefully reduce some drag. Other than this, the engine starts to vibrate quite a bit at 25 mph or more so I try to maintain a higher average speed rather than a top speed. By maintaining at least 20 mph, you can get places! brnot
 
i was running Kenda Kommuter, 26x2.0 on my last bike. a little skinnier, but really smooth street tires. cuts down on vibes big time. knobbies aren't made for flying down a smooth street.
 

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Kat and Bairdco,

Thanks for the information! I'll look for a ~1.75" tire. By the way, can I put a 1.75" tire on a rim that currently has a 2.125 on it? I will need to look into this more.
 
I got rid of most of the vibrations on my bike and i can cruise at 30mph, thats fast enough for me on a bike. I weight 125lbs on a 26" cruiser bike with a 48cc engine and
44t sprocket. If you want to go a little faster you could get a smaller rear sprocket. I prefer my 44t cause i dont have to peddal not even to take off. I switched my rear coaster break wheel with a mountain bike wheel(still using wide cruiser tire). and i switch my front cruiser fork for a mountainbike fork with shocks and front brakes(brakes work great).
 
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Creative Engineering said:
Yes Max it was...It was hillarious too!

I could just envision a noob actually doing this...And then when all else failed, calling me to ask about ordering one of my adjustable sprockets. laff

Jim
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HEEEY!! i went out and did that, and now my chain skips, do you have any adjustable ones for me?

thanks
 
Nashville Kat said:
I was running 2.25 cruisers and went down to 26 X 1.75- big difference! In rolling resistence and weight and VIBRATION- Only $10 tire. In fact of all the things I did, that made the biggest difference in vibration. Then, I even put a 27 X 1 1/4 wheel and tire on the front with a road brake. Even better roll.

Heres some tires on ebay- 1.5 inch, very smooth tread Not a bad deal.

Bicycle 26 x 1.5 Slick Bike 2 TIRE 2TUBE/RIMSTRIP+VIDEO - eBay (item 270448303085 end time Dec-25-09 06:56:01 PST)
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thats all fine and dandy, but what about us who intend to ride our bikes through the winter in 3 feet of snow? i think i will keep my knobby tires!(they have no knobs left anyways, so i need new ones!)
 
if memory serves well enuff dont forget to tweak ur idler it should be a tiny bolt with a spring around it...hitting that sweet spot can also make all the differance(dont know if u already did)just my 2 cents
 
I tweaked my idler... by throwing it in the trash!

Whatever you do, do not use the idler. It causes nothing but pain!
 
BarelyAWake said:
o_O

...

/facepalm
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1. When I had the idler, the idler wheel kept slipping down the adjuster guide. I had to use super-human strength to secure it since one side doesn't have a nut for vice grips to grip to.

2. The idler has to be bent to run true with the chain. I didn't have the correct equipment to bend the idler and I didn't intend to buy any.

3. The idler has to be tightened very tightly against the frame. Tape is needed to keep it from damaging the paint but tape can cause the idler to slip.

4. The idler is noisy and puts unneccessary drag on the chain. My chain hasn't been stretching recently so I have no need for the idler.

This is my reasoning for the above comment. amen
 
ofc - and in many ways yer right cept...

I believe guero_loco was talkin' bout the idle set screw - I think mistakenly under the impression it does anything other than set yer idle - and the sad fact that some builds (including mine) need the "idler", idle pulley, tensioner... w/e ya wanna call it.


It wasn't so much yer comment but the both combined that left me a lil speechless lol, it's all good ;)
 
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Oh shoot! I just realized that he was talking about the idle adjustment screw lol. My bad.

Turn it in all of the way and then back it out 3 1/2 turns. Then adjust it from there.
 
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