30 Miles and WT#!!!!

Lay'emLow said:
I was in a **** of a jam like this a few months ago. Fuel was dripping out of my exhaust when i cranked it over and over, I had spark outside the motor and everything was sealed up with silicone and rtv. Turned out that my spark was very weak, and was blowing out under compression in the motor. I borrowed my friend's cdi and then she started with ease. Just something to ponder...
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Was it really hard to start? Like you had to ride and ride and ride to get it going? Mine started in 30' and now it's 3/4 of a mile before it starts to kick to life. I think my cdi is bad. hmmm...
 
Sign Guy said:
Was it really hard to start? Like you had to ride and ride and ride to get it going? Mine started in 30' and now it's 3/4 of a mile before it starts to kick to life. I think my cdi is bad. hmmm...
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when I got it going it would start in about 6 feet, then all this started to happen.

Q
 
completly took carb apart this afternoon still no effect, could this be a mag or cdi problem? how does one check them, remember now, I am a cabinetmaker not an electrician so explain it for a dummy...


Q
 
Cut off the plug in connectors for the CDI & solder & heat shrink all the wires together, then replace the spark plug, wire & boot with quality parts.
See if that does the trick.

One more thing... disconnect the kill button!!!
 
Venice Motor Bikes said:
Cut off the plug in connectors for the CDI & solder & heat shrink all the wires together, then replace the spark plug, wire & boot with quality parts.
See if that does the trick.

One more thing... disconnect the kill button!!!
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but if the cdi is shot, am I just throwing away more money rather than just buying a new one?

If I disconnect the kill botton how do you stop the engine?

Q
 
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rwquiring said:
but if the cdi is shot, am I just throwing away more money rather than just buying a new one?

If I disconnect the kill botton how do you stop the engine?

Q
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The spark plug, boot & wire are all parts you should replace anyway.
You can stop the engine by slowly letting out the clutch until the engine dies or by flipping the choke lever up. (The kill buttons are notorious for shorting out the CDIs & mags!) :(

*edit* You should always solder those CDI wires! (the plug ins are sh**)
 
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Venice Motor Bikes said:
The spark plug, boot & wire are all parts you should replace anyway.
You can stop the engine by slowly letting out the clutch until the engine dies or by flipping the choke lever up. (The kill buttons are notorious for shorting out the CDIs & mags!) :(

*edit* You should always solder those CDI wires! (the plug ins are sh**)
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is there any way to tell if the CDI has been shorted out?
Q
 
I read you say you have spark so I say your CDI is good. remove the kill switch wires and try.

Norm is right about upgrading your boot and wire.

Adam


Also look at the mag check for loose connections.
 
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GoFastBicycles said:
I read you say you have spark so I say your CDI is good. remove the kill switch wires and try.

Norm is right about upgrading your boot and wire.

Adam


Also look at the mag check for loose connections.
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Sometimes I have spark so maybe it is in the wire and boot, Have looked at the mag and every thing looks normal to me (rookie you know so what do I know?)No loose wires or solder joints..
Thanks
Q
 
When you took the carb apart was the brass tub attached to the base of the carb? It is the tube that slides in the middle of the fuel float. It happened to me and after replacing every thing on the bike but the carb (yes i mean every thing engine too) I still could not get it to fire. So that left 1 thing the carb. I took it apart and the main jet tube was not attached to the base of the carb.

Adam
 
You can use a old car ignition wire, just make sure it's got a copper core; & the boot only costs $2. Use a NGK B5HS plug.
 
My boygofast would run if putting some fuel in combustion chamber for about 20 seconds.
My problem was at the carburetor intake line it was pinched and not letting enough fuel in.
 
GoFastBicycles said:
When you took the carb apart was the brass tub attached to the base of the carb? It is the tube that slides in the middle of the fuel float. It happened to me and after replacing every thing on the bike but the carb (yes i mean every thing engine too) I still could not get it to fire. So that left 1 thing the carb. I took it apart and the main jet tube was not attached to the base of the carb.

Adam
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Yes It was attached, I did find a LOT of debris in the fuel filter, changed the line and the filter. Got parts for new plug wire and boot and a new NGK bp5hs, Have to help my son move this am so I can't work on it now but will this afternoon. I will keep ya'll informed...

Q
 
rwquiring said:
Yes It was attached, I did find a LOT of debris in the fuel filter, changed the line and the filter. Got parts for new plug wire and boot and a new NGK bp5hs, Have to help my son move this am so I can't work on it now but will this afternoon. I will keep ya'll informed...

Q
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If by chance yo put the small filter on the petcock remove it.

Adam
 
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