I have this bike.There are a number of problems with motorizing it but I don't see the exhaust as being one of them.
29" beach cruiser at w mart
- Thread starter cuberasnapper
- Start date
Hamm n Egger..........Would one of the problems be mounting the sprocket to the rear wheel with 48 spokes?...how does a 9 bolt pattern sprocket work with 48 spokes.....Also, what about the clearance between chainstay and tire....enough for the chain??? Just wondering.....
I haven't gotten that far yet but I'm sure the 48 spokes is going to be a problem but I think manic makes an adapter for that. I think there is probably enough clearance for the chain. The biggest problem I see is that the seat tube is 32mm and the downtube is 45mm. The bike is huge. As long as I have to custom fab motor mounts I think I'll put either a Lifan 2.5 or a Greyhound on it. I might try and adapt SBP front motor mounts to both the front and the rear. The handlebars are 25mm but choke down to about 22mm where the grips are. I think the throttle and clutch will go on without much problem. I'm still trying to finish up an O.C.C. Chopper so I'm about as tired of mounting problems as I'm going to get for awhile but all in all I think this project would be worth the effort.
I m working on a large framed bike both tubes needed large frame adapters
I bought the typical no drill adapter for the seat post and used a clamp like those in the kits, but for a large tube. On the front I used a MM adapter that I also modified with one of the large tube clamps
I was thinking of just using a muffler clamp drilled out to fit the engine mount studs and one of the large tube clamps, but I had already ordered my mount from SBP
I was going to buy one of these bikes this week but I found a really good .38 pocket pistol that I have been wanting for a couple of years now instead
Just checked
Seat post is 35mm and the front tube is 45mm
I bought the typical no drill adapter for the seat post and used a clamp like those in the kits, but for a large tube. On the front I used a MM adapter that I also modified with one of the large tube clamps
I was thinking of just using a muffler clamp drilled out to fit the engine mount studs and one of the large tube clamps, but I had already ordered my mount from SBP
I was going to buy one of these bikes this week but I found a really good .38 pocket pistol that I have been wanting for a couple of years now instead
Just checked
Seat post is 35mm and the front tube is 45mm
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I would love to know how this build came out for you guy's.?.
I am thinking of getting this KicK A$$ bike for a grubee GT-5 66cc and have already ran in to problems mounting my engine to the 29" mountain bike because of how the back wheel frame bar curves and not enough space to mount the motor it self. I can see the engine will fit no prob on this bike and I can probably use some of the parts off the mountain bike to make it more to my likening but I was wandering what if any problems did anyone run in to while building this bike?
And if you did finish, HOW DOES IT RUN??? bAD $a$$ HUN?
I LOVE how high the 29" mountain bike rides so I really can’t wait to go grab one of these and ride out with the skyhalk...
I am thinking of getting this KicK A$$ bike for a grubee GT-5 66cc and have already ran in to problems mounting my engine to the 29" mountain bike because of how the back wheel frame bar curves and not enough space to mount the motor it self. I can see the engine will fit no prob on this bike and I can probably use some of the parts off the mountain bike to make it more to my likening but I was wandering what if any problems did anyone run in to while building this bike?
And if you did finish, HOW DOES IT RUN??? bAD $a$$ HUN?
I LOVE how high the 29" mountain bike rides so I really can’t wait to go grab one of these and ride out with the skyhalk...
Hi, I just built a 29 in Genisis Onyx. Looks great. But I am having issues with the rear bearings and the sprocket. Rear Bearings keep getting chewed up and the sprocket holes do not line up with holes between the spokes. this is my first build. any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
A jack shaft would eliminate the need for the engine side sprocket or maybe one for the three prong sprocket adapters from Sportscarpat or Pirate would would work.
What do you mean that the bearings are getting chewed up
There shouln't be any of that at least until the sprocket is attached and the bike is running, even then the worst bearings would stiil last a month or so
Are you sure that you aren't just backing off on the cones when you are adjusting or reattaching the coaster brake, that's what happened on my first build
The bearings were my main concern with this bike
What do you mean that the bearings are getting chewed up
There shouln't be any of that at least until the sprocket is attached and the bike is running, even then the worst bearings would stiil last a month or so
Are you sure that you aren't just backing off on the cones when you are adjusting or reattaching the coaster brake, that's what happened on my first build
The bearings were my main concern with this bike
I have motorized one of these, forget the 9 hole rag joint, talked to a sprocket/hub vendor, seems like his 3.75"radius would work. Another thing is gearing, tire rollout is 91" vice 80/81"so aftermarket sprocket and adapter a must, i had to add some weld and grind back to widen the mount plate to "seat" without crimping, I have a HS and I could probably fit 2 in there with exhaust. The bike rides really well, good feel, TERRIBLE brakes(still in work on this one), WIDE handlebars, welds seem well done. It's a BIG bike. You have to find the sweet spot with the bearing issue, has a nice bent brake arm. Oh one last thing, stock chain ring(36 I think) this bike is geared TALL, like 10th on a 21 speed. Something new.
Mac
Mac
apachekid,
i'll get a pix tomorrow(Monday) only have it running for a bit over a week, lot's more stuff to do before i go more than a mile or so from home, my 1st 4 stroke... 1st pull, slow idle, quiet etc. I wouldn't ride it at all 'xcept I'm likein it so much!! I am gonna re-fab the fender mounts to my specs tomorrow(Important, unless you like pain), I have a temp mounted 44 tooth sprocket, (I'll explain with PIX tomorrow) but it's too tall due to tire roll-out(93"), proper would be 50-56T if your gearbox is a 5:1. I was looking at wheels e-bay for a 29'er, holySH%t $$ like $850 or so for good ones, the hub measures very close to a CB110, mine was 1.519" ANYWAY, I'll write more tomorrow with Pix
i'll get a pix tomorrow(Monday) only have it running for a bit over a week, lot's more stuff to do before i go more than a mile or so from home, my 1st 4 stroke... 1st pull, slow idle, quiet etc. I wouldn't ride it at all 'xcept I'm likein it so much!! I am gonna re-fab the fender mounts to my specs tomorrow(Important, unless you like pain), I have a temp mounted 44 tooth sprocket, (I'll explain with PIX tomorrow) but it's too tall due to tire roll-out(93"), proper would be 50-56T if your gearbox is a 5:1. I was looking at wheels e-bay for a 29'er, holySH%t $$ like $850 or so for good ones, the hub measures very close to a CB110, mine was 1.519" ANYWAY, I'll write more tomorrow with Pix
Here's some Pix, need to get some threaded barrel extentions to extend the studs on the gas tank so the bottom strap will fit. Go ahead a)nd laugh at the rear sprocket setup, has a .040 teflon insulator circle on the sprocket side extended holes on sprocket and rubber with fender washers. got the axial AND radial run-out to .001 and it's good and tight. Basically did this to verify the math I did with the gearing(and I wanted to ride it sooooo bad) Still thinking of getting new rear rim with disk brake holes(and use a tophat adapter from kings), a new 36H 29 rim or a sprocket adapter, probably go with the adapter. For sure needs a front disk or Drum, turning out to be another money pit. It'll be worth it in the long run.
Mac
Mac
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Keep us informed!
Mac,
When looking for a new rear wheel you need to be aware of your rear drop out spacing. Since it is a single speed coaster brake rear hub the Rear Spacing is 110mm- 120mm Just about any wheel set you are looking at that comes with a disc brake rear hub is going to be 135mm and very likely multi speed cassette. You can reset the frame but due to the fact that it is aluminum it needs to be done very carefully so as not to crack a weld. You might have more success looking for a BMX rear hub that is disc brake compatible and have your local bike shop lace it up for you, if you don't want to do it your self.
ocscully
When looking for a new rear wheel you need to be aware of your rear drop out spacing. Since it is a single speed coaster brake rear hub the Rear Spacing is 110mm- 120mm Just about any wheel set you are looking at that comes with a disc brake rear hub is going to be 135mm and very likely multi speed cassette. You can reset the frame but due to the fact that it is aluminum it needs to be done very carefully so as not to crack a weld. You might have more success looking for a BMX rear hub that is disc brake compatible and have your local bike shop lace it up for you, if you don't want to do it your self.
ocscully
Thanks ocscully, I take it BMX hubs are closer to11o?/ I'll measure mine tomorrow. i don't have any problem with the stretch, just need to know the alloy and heat treatment so I can get it back to where it needs to be, Hopefully it's a 50 series and not like 2024 T-6, will get it done a bit at a time. i was looking at the white duct tape holding the tank on, looks kinda like WWII fighter scheme... something to think about.
Mac
Mac
Whaaaaaaaaat?????? I think NOT! I have two aluminum bikes made by Kent and the welds are awesome. That is the most un-true generalization I have ever heard of.....HONESTLY!!!!!!!
Matt, where in the heck did you hear such phoney baloney (bologna) bs as that????? Welds are welds....steel or aluminum. Strong or weak depends on the skill of the welder, not the material he's welding!!!!!!!
Better yet, just take Scotto's advice