well the mount blocks you made there can all be made on manual machines. you don't need to program a haas to make those, in fact for one set it would be a lot faster to make them on a manual or prototrack mill. even for two sets or even five. Where I work the CNC's tend to be busy with more complicated stuff and typically do not have free vises for additional (optional) work offsets.
also the mount plate that goes between the blocks and the engine is pointless. That is for people who don't yet know where the engine will be and how wide it is. if you already know you'll be using a rope start, or a pull start, the plate shouldn't have slots in it. Shouldn't be a plate at all. Just adds weight IMO.
Mount blocks should be made from billet aluminum as we have done but no plates, instead use studs. This way there wont be any 3" long bolts going through the assembly. I don't have a drawing or anything, but I could make one when I have the time. Using precision slip fit guide pins you can get away with not using any plates for alignment. IE use .2500 pins about 3/4" long, press fit them into the JS blocks with a .0005" interference fit and drills holes and ream them with a .2505 reamer. Have the JS pillowblocks or just JS bearing holders precision made to match the studded engine seat tube mounts. The engine block is way stronger than any plate you put it on. Be way easier to mount the JS blocks with a dummy seat tube to the motor first, with everything in the assembly fit up and all, bolt it down, then bolt all that to the seat tube; than putting the JS/engine mount on the bike first then bolting in the engine.
Took me about 30 minutes on a manual mill to make the mount blocks on a manual. Same as yours pretty much just slightly different dimensions. Learn to run the manuals quick if you wanna get good on the CNCs.
also the mount plate that goes between the blocks and the engine is pointless. That is for people who don't yet know where the engine will be and how wide it is. if you already know you'll be using a rope start, or a pull start, the plate shouldn't have slots in it. Shouldn't be a plate at all. Just adds weight IMO.
Mount blocks should be made from billet aluminum as we have done but no plates, instead use studs. This way there wont be any 3" long bolts going through the assembly. I don't have a drawing or anything, but I could make one when I have the time. Using precision slip fit guide pins you can get away with not using any plates for alignment. IE use .2500 pins about 3/4" long, press fit them into the JS blocks with a .0005" interference fit and drills holes and ream them with a .2505 reamer. Have the JS pillowblocks or just JS bearing holders precision made to match the studded engine seat tube mounts. The engine block is way stronger than any plate you put it on. Be way easier to mount the JS blocks with a dummy seat tube to the motor first, with everything in the assembly fit up and all, bolt it down, then bolt all that to the seat tube; than putting the JS/engine mount on the bike first then bolting in the engine.
Took me about 30 minutes on a manual mill to make the mount blocks on a manual. Same as yours pretty much just slightly different dimensions. Learn to run the manuals quick if you wanna get good on the CNCs.