2 cycle oil engine teardown wear tests

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by joedognorth, Mar 29, 2015.

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  1. joedognorth

    joedognorth New Member

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    if you can think of a better title let me know, want to start a sticky about amounts of engine wear after te1ardowns of using brands/types of oil at a given ratios. basically evaluating oil quality, I know it isn't practical to do a good side by side test with all the possible combinations, and variables (riding conditions, ect)

    starting possibly with these brands at these ratios to start with, awith picts of wear patterns, deposits, carbon build up, ect.



    PLEASE NOTE THAT THE USE OF SOME OF THESE OILS / RATIOS ARE AT YOUR OWN RISK
    THESE ARE NOT MY RECOMMENDATIONS
    USING SOME OF THESE OILS / RATIOS MAY RESULT IN ENGINE DAMAGE, ECT.
    YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

    amsoil injector oil tcw3, api tc, @ 50:1 and richer
    amsoil intercepter @ 50:1 api tc
    amsoil dominator @ 50:1
    amsoil saber air cooled @ 50:1 & 100:1
    como lube artic blue semi synthetic api tc, jaso fd fc, iso l egd @ 50:1 and richer
    citgo / mystic sea & snow @ 50:1 and richer
    walmat supertech outboard tcw3 @ 50:1 and richer
    opti 2 / arnold 1 mix (interlube) iso l egd, jafc fd @ 100:1, 50:1 and at packet ratio as mixed with 1 gal gas
    fleetfarm resolute (citgo) outboard tcw3 @ 50:1 and richer
    pennzoil "AIR COOLED" api tc @ 50:1 and richer
    pennzoil premium outboard and multipurpose tcw3, api tc @ 50:1 and richer
    castrol motorcycle 2T @ 50:1 and richer
    castrol snowmobile 2T @ 50:1 and richer
    any brand regular 10w30 motor oil @ ? ratio
    any brand reguler 10w40 motor oil @ ? ratio
    any brand regular SAE 30 motor oil @ ? ratio
    any brand regular SAE 40 motor oil @ ? ratio
    Briggs 2 cycle oil @ ? ratio
    lawnboy 2 cycle oil @ ? ratio
    echo @ ? ratio
    sthil ultra @ ?
    husqvarna @ ? ratio
    homelite @ ? ratio
    redmax @ ? ratio
    valvoline outboard @ ? ratio
    quakes state small engine 2 cycle, api tc, jaso fa fb @ 50:1 and richer

    more later on? all the above, are off the top of my head, ratings included, all typed out on a kindle.
     
  2. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    I'm currently using 40w non-detergent @ 25:1 in one of my engines, very low smoke plug chop with carb jetted to give a light-medium plug color, just under 30 miles so far and engine is running really good, deosn't seem to be running any hotter than before, I'm even using a stock upper wrist pin bearing in this engine, nothing upgraded internally with this engine, I does have the pancake/disc shaped head on it that some claim makes the engine run hotter than even a stock head, jug has some simple port work to clean up cats flashing and the cylinder deck was shaved down a few .001" to get compression up a bit since the engine I'm doing this with is what we call a Half Breed and needs at least .050+ shaved off deck or compression will be very low since piston sits .062" down in hole at TDC.

    As to the testing you're proposing, there are so many variables involved and probably many of the oild you listed are identical just different packaging, if you have the time and money to invest in that experiment you should have fun with it, but coming to the table with solid evidence about which ones are better than the other may be a bit hard to get done truthfully.

    Several of us here are big fans of Opti2 and think it's honestly about the best bang for the buck with whatever ratio someone wants to run it at.

    Best wishes with the experiment and my advice is be careful how you post your results, oil topics on here can start a flaming thread quickly......LOL!!!
     
  3. Davezilla

    Davezilla New Member

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    I'm still using Opti2 at 100:1 but I've used other 2 cycle oils including regular 10w30 in my bike engines in the past to break them in. I currently just mix the 100:1 Opti2 and go as the rings seat just fine with it and I've seen no other issues.
    My other favorite is Amsoil Dominator at 50:1 but I got mine jetted for the 100:1 and recently bought a quart of the Opti so it'll be a while before I switch to anything else.

    when I get an engine that's ready for teardown I will post pictures, good, bad, or ugly, but again, that may be a while before I wear anything out enough to warrant a teardown. My last teardown was when I was experimenting with a single ring and lost compression rather quickly, but the bore looked perfect so I re used it. What it came down to on that build was that these ring gaps are just too wide to run a single ring, now if I find a piston that's compatible with a single ring or dykes (L) ring I'll put that in and test again. I'll also be using the Amsoil Dominator or Opti2 right from the get go again as well.
     
  4. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Do you remember the beater Iron Horse 49cc bike I keep posting about? The owner runs used auto crankcase oil in that motor. It's been running four years now with god only knows how many miles and never had to pull the jug yet despite the abuse.
    Original stock kit sparkplug never been touched

    That should tell you something.
    I'll post pics for sure if I ever have to tear it down....
     
  5. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Yep, I think many time we tend to over think these little work horses, it all about the crap shoot factor really.

    Of course this is just my opinion but clearly the people in China that use them dont do loads of mods like many of us do, they dont have them set up for high rpms like myself and others here do and that also makes a difference, but if the engine is getting adi1uate lubrication on cylinder and bearings and the fuel air ratio is orrect or even a bit on the rich side these little engines should run for a very long time if kept below the hyper vibration point, if the engine is well balanced then that is even better, cleaned up ports, a good upper bearing, good gaskets on intake and exhaust, proper carb jetting and starting with a good engine on the positive side of the crap shoot factor and it probably gonna run great on most any decent automtive or 2 smoker oil.

    High performance high rpm builds are an exception to some of this because the engine needs premium lubrication because of higher loads and higher heat on cylinder and bearings.

    The engine Im usi g 25:1 of 40w non detergent in will top out at 39mph but actually runs best at 30mph or below since the vibes start kicking in fairly heavy at about 32mph, Im running a 30T on a 24" wheel and it just purrs at 28-30mph under no stress at all and has good power on hils.

    Im gonna bet this engine will run for many years if I keep it and run it this way on the 40w oil @ 25:1

    It has the same fwlt power and top speed as it did when it was on my favorite Opti2 @ 100:1 and just a small amount more smoke until its warmed up.
     

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