1st build.

Thanks , learning lots on the forums here . This weekend I plan to clean up my welds and fab some fork end drop outs .
 
In an attempt to strengthen my drop outs and give a little more tire clearance , I used some scrap diamond plate to fab these . I should be able to get them welded on tonight .
 

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recently harvested four sets of drop outs from one set of overhead garage door assemblies the major plate yields three and the smaller triangle one good one.

pretty easy to come by at the scrap yards and yard sales
I am sure a garage door selling/installing company would be glad to put them aside if one asks!!!

great material. for all kinds of things bike related

How about heating with acetylene a moving line under come along pressure
to yield some great spring material for all fork /seat ?related uses???? anyone????
 
Drop outs on , fork reinforcement fab'd and installed. Next is motor mount and jack shaft . The fork reinforcement is from the spreader rods off a 1960s era jc higgins camping tent sold by montgomery ward . LOL !
 

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Scored this rust bucket hawthorne at a garage sale . Might be a btr in the future.
 

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Maybe I should ask in another area , but whats the best way to remove the fins from a fly wheel ?

I don't know about the best way, but I can tell you how I did it. My engine is an old flat head Tecumseh 199cc 5 horse. The flywheel was a heavy, deep finned one made of cast iron. I knocked off chunks with a hammer and then shaved the fins down to where I wanted them (not all the way) with a side grinder. First roughed them out with a grinding disc and then finished up with a flap disc. I balanced the flywheel using a lawn mower blade balancer. Then I made a flywheel cover from a stainless steel copper bottomed frying pan. Photos are in the "kindalikeawhizzer" build thread.
SB
 
Thanks silver bear. Nice build !

Got the seat post done last night . First attempt was a fail ! Trying to use to thin of metal on the 90 degree turn . 2nd try turned out.
 

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Well trying to figure out angle of motor and position of jack shaft . Used an old bed frame for the motor mount which will be trimmed and welded eventually.
 

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I got the gussets cut and welded . Used brass for the tank hangers and cable guides . Motor is mounted and hopefully will get at least one chain on the jack shaft tonight . Still need to fab a carb intake and exhaust . Hopefully a maiden run next week ?

Also upgraded to solid brass strutt tubes and neck connector with threaded allen head bolts.
 

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Chain tensioner welded on , but the rubber wheel is so so ? Might have to get a custom one from Curtis Fox :)
 

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Ok well everything is mounted and running . Here is a problem Im having . Any input would be appreciated !

Im lacking power on the start and my top speed is about 12 miles an hour LOL !

Could it be my gearing ? Im chained from my clutch to a 10 tooth sprocket on the jack shaft and then again a 10 tooth from the jack shaft to the 46 tooth wheel sprocket . ??? Im not a gear head so not sure ;)

Could it be that the NTCC carb needle needs to be adjusted ?

Also on this briggs it originally had a flow jet carb which had a tube that went into the cylinder wall . The hole is open still as I swapped the carb . Is that hole a vent or a vacuum assist for the old carb ? Could that be creating an air leak ?

Thanks for any input !
 

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Not sure what the finial ratio should be,thinking about 16 to 1 you divide teeth into teeth. If you have a 10 on the clutch its 1 to 1 to the shaft and 10 into 46 =4.6 way to high,you will need a lot bigger sprocket on the shaft coming off the clutch.............Curt
 
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