1950? 500cc BSA project

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harry76

harry76

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Because there is more tyre choices for the 21" maybe that 1/2" of overall tyre/wheel height could be made up with a taller sidewall.

Ill definitely be looking into this. Thanks again
 
harry76

harry76

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Mr.B.

Mr.B.

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If you wanted pedals- Why not? They could be your foot pegs :)

Here’s a wheel visual for you...

A vintage 26” bicycle wheel, a aluminum 21 x 1.60 DID rim (Honda) and a 21 x 3 wheel (Yamaha) with drum brake.

I’m going to lace that monster hub into the aluminum rim.

-Kirk
 

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harry76

harry76

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Apr 16, 2011
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wayne z said:
Your engine is a lot older than the ones in the pic above. The above pics have standard carburators with intake valve operated by camshaft.
Your engine appears to have an atmospheric operated intake valve( no intake camshaft) and a mixer carburator common to older type engines.
Not nearly as much power and rpm to deal with as the newer versions.
.
The little pully was prolly to run a small generator for lights on the motorcycle.

I don't know what you paid, but with some info and the right listing might get you couple thousand bucks for it.
Click to expand...
Just read the bit about maybe getting a couple thousand for this engine

dance1

I paid less then $200 for it, i figured it had to be worth that
 
harry76

harry76

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Apr 16, 2011
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Mr.B. said:
If you wanted pedals- Why not? They could be your foot pegs :)

Here’s a wheel visual for you...

A vintage 26” bicycle wheel, a aluminum 21 x 1.60 DID rim (Honda) and a 21 x 3 wheel (Yamaha) with drum brake.

I’m going to lace that monster hub into the aluminum rim.

-Kirk
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks. I cant believe i didnt check as i still have a brand new 21" front rim in the shed..... i bought a brand new 2000 YZ 250 and took the wheels apart and had the rims powder coated black by someone that was recommended to me. I picked them up and i wasnt overly happy with the finish..... I complained and he threw a temper tantrum and started throwing things. I just left but was horrified a day later when the finish started peeling off

:-||

And as i had a brand new bike waiting to be ridden i didnt want to wait for someone else to do it so i just bought excel rims..... the bikes long gone but i still have those original rims, just need to find another 21" rim. Ill be watching Ebay.

dance1

Just wondering though, how many holes are those 21"rims (ill have to dig mine out of my junk pile)?.... Ive been watching EBay for vintage drum hubs but the only ones ive seen are 40 holes or other odd spoke numbers
 
harry76

harry76

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Apr 16, 2011
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Mr.B. said:
That was a good score!

I’m Jealous. :)

Here’s another reference...

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=mode...&w=625&h=456&ei=CSkrT-H9DMvy2gXX--mEBA&zoom=1

-Kirk
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link. WOW this all looks very helpful. That modern board track is just gorgeous.

You mentioned i could still have pedals, but i think if i use that albion gearbox i won on EBay (also for a good price i think) the pedals would be a bit much and a lot more work.

And the bike will be too heavy to pedal, but i guess they are there to start the bike rather then actually pedalling, and it would be cool to pedal start it, if that was possible, and besides i believe the Albion gearbox will have a kickstarter.
 
harry76

harry76

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The last bike on that page would be very similar to mine then. The engine is a JAP but looks very similar to mine and the gearbox looks the same..... COOL!!!!!!
 
Lurker

Lurker

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You sir are a lucky man! Before I started my v-twin build I was on the prowl for a engine similar to the one you found, but I could not find one at a decent price or in running condition. I could not afford to purchase a engine that I wasnt 100% sure I could find parts for. I hope you will be able to get it running, because that will make a very authentic machine.

I will be watching this thread like a hawk.
 
harry76

harry76

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Yeah i thought so too, i figured for a couple hundred dollars it was worth the risk, even if i need to spend money to get it going it will be a good investment and probably could get my investment back without any trouble, and if i cant get it going ill just paint it up and display it in my manroom.

Ill need to do a lot of research but the engine ISNT seized so im quietly confident
 
harry76

harry76

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Any thoughts about how i should go about trying to run this engine? Should i try and run the engine as is or do a complete tear down of the engine? I guess i should look for a manual but first i need to track down the exact year.

And i guess i should look for some BSA forums to get more assistance as ill need all the advice i can get to get this going.
 
Mr.B.

Mr.B.

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Oct 21, 2008
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Start with the easy stuff...

Clean the carb, clean all the contact points in the magneto,

Change the oil, change the spark plug, change the plug wire.

See if it will start...?

Before a tear down.

-Kirk
 
harry76

harry76

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Apr 16, 2011
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Thanks Mr B, that way if it does run it would save me a lot of work and study. Ill need to make a stand to attempt to start it.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Any idea how i will attempt to start this engine? A drill or rattlegun on the crank perhaps? Providing the nut doesnt undo that way.

2. Is it ok to run the engine with no exhaust?

But before that happens ill need to clean the points, i had a quick look when i first looked at the engine and they didnt look too bad, maybe this thing is a runner, either that or he cleaned them before discovering a major problem and selling the project. Hopefully not.
 
harry76

harry76

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Apr 16, 2011
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I got a little advice from the Swedish guy in the earlier YouTube link I gave out. He agreed that my engine numbers means its a 1950 model and he seems to think its been used as a stationary engine and that where the carb is from...... That's a little disappointing as I'll now need to buy a carb..... Oh well
 
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