10+ HP build-wheels, sprockets, top hat???

M

midwestmayhem

New Member
I'm planning my next build. I'm going to use a hopped up 212cc preditor, probably putting out somewere around 12hp, give or take a few. Haven't decided on a frame of drive system yet.
scratg
Anybody got sugestions on what wheels to use? What would be the best way to install the motor driven sprocket on the rear wheel? Would a top hat adapter be strong enough?
 
Howdy Mid, welcome.

I'd go with full on MC wheels an' brakes with that much engine. Just my thinking. Above 5HP and nothing "bicycle" is gonna end well. Funny, but not well.
 
My advice would be to find a rear motorcycle rim that runs disc brakes. Bolt a drive sprocket onto one side. Then you cut a freewheel hub right at the flange and weld on a plate to bolt onto the other side of the rim. As for brakes on the back, you could try and use a sproter set up. IE, Use the drive sprocket as the brake rotor. I've seen it done on a few motorcycles and I have been trying to think of a way to do it on my MB.
 
According to Dennis at GEBE the Velocity rims are the strongest though Ive got the workman 11gauge wheels and can't see how they could be stronger than those, but who knows. Of course Im simply basing that on spoke thickness, so i could be wrong.
 
you might have to build a bike from scratch to handle the power. or get a downhill mountain bike, those are big $$$. a 29er frame would be best. bigger than 10 gauge spokes for the wheel.
 
My newest wheelset is my favorite so far........Pimplite rims with 12G stainless spokes and the new high-flange Surly disc hub w/ Intense H.D. downhill tubes and big fat 2.5 Hookworms. Ride with confidence! And they look awesome too!

dnut
 
thanks for the info everyone. Hubs with sealed cartidge bearings seem to be the way to go. Surlys seem like a good hub, except for being in the $60-$70range. Little high for my budget.

Has anyone ever tried a loose bearing with double lip seals? What about adapting a conventional loose bearing hub to sealed cartidge bearings?
 
midwestmayhem said:
thanks for the info everyone. Hubs with sealed cartidge bearings seem to be the way to go. Surlys seem like a good hub, except for being in the $60-$70range. Little high for my budget.

Has anyone ever tried a loose bearing with double lip seals? What about adapting a conventional loose bearing hub to sealed cartidge bearings?
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I have converted a few bmx hubs to cartridge bearings when I was younger. You need to have a pretty beefy hub to make sure you have enough material left so you dont have to worry about it cracking later. But you have to machine the hub to fit the bearing and buy an axle made for sealed cartridge bearings.
When all is said and done, your probably looking at $30-$40 for the bearings axle, and getting the hub machined.
 
I've doe some thinkin since my last post. If I plan to build this bike right I better have actual cartridge bearing hubs.

Anybody know where to get a multispeed rear disc hub with cartridge bearings?
 
Installing a motorcycle rear would be a project, not to mention a huge weight increase.

I would stick with downhill bike rims as Scotto suggested. He would know, he's using the same motor with some tuning. Grubee does make a hub that works with a multispeed rear and has a solid sprocket mount, but I'm not sure what suppliers have them in stock. I would think that after replacing the standard bearings with high quality sealed cartridge bearings, the grubee HD axle setup would be a good option. The downhill rims with heavy duty spokes should hold up fine considering people are hucking the 40+ pound bikes off 15+ foot drops. IMO I would go with a complete downhill rim and hub with a top-hat adapter so you can run rear disc brakes.
 
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