adjusting the clutchs spring for more tension

[Norman]

this is for you guys who clutch is slipping and your wanting to get more tension on the real clutches spring and not a little spring under the pressure plate. You can do this with the engine on the bike if you have room on your build.

picture of the engine out of the frame the part I'm going to remove is the clutch cable mount on the back of the engine

this is the part we are going to adjust its the retainer that compress the clutch spring which is to the right of the screwdriver this is the shaft taken out of the engines case so you can see it there is 4 slots that you can get a tool into to hold it while you rotate the main shaft to the right to tighten it putting more pressure on the clutch

here I'm doing the tightening of the spring you might need help holding the tool into the tabs while you rotate the sprocket nut to the right which will put more pressure on the spring and more pressure on the clutch see the spark plug tool being used as it fits the nut on the front sprocket. I also removed the spark plug don't need it starting up and it will easier to turn. in this picture I'm holding the retainer with a punch.

 

[Norman]

now some pictures of the shaft apart and some info on the size of the small ball inside of the clutch the ball that like to fall out and hide on you. the balls size is 0.312 thousands of an inch

taking the shaft apart just to show you the retainer is removed here screws off right hand threads and it releases all tension before it comes off so it won't go flying

this is the shaft at rest notice to the right the small shaft it is the star nuts threaded stud sticking out I have a white pointer pointing at it

I'm pushing on the small shaft just like the clutch lever would do moving the shaft inside of the main shaft you can see more of the star nuts shaft sticking out on the right this would be just like you pulling in on the clutch lever I have the tensioner remover so I can do this other wise the big spring would let me move it this easily.That big spring IS the clutch spring, it is what puts pressure on the clutch.

 

[Norman]

the spring is off now I'm taking the rest of the parts out of the inside of the main shaft fun isn't it?!

all the parts that make your clutch work laid out in the order they go back together in

my short shaft is just over 1-1/32" long

this shot shows you that the retainer is flush with the main shaft threads I guess stock setting. you can only see this if you take the main shaft out of the engine case

 

[Norman]

here is a picture of the small spring under the clutch pressure plate its only job is to hold tension on the pressure plate when you pull in the clutch keeps it from rattling and making more noise it does NOT help the clutch to not slip so stretching it is wasting your time.

I'm pointing at the retainer down in the hole that holds the lower clutch cable pointing at the slot in the retainer which is what you need to hold while turning the rear sprocket nut to the right to apply more tension on the clutch spring

that the end hope you enjoyed it

 

[Pablo]

HAHAHHA - enjoyed it very much. NO doubt as to what to do. Thanks mucho!! Great pics.

 

[philipk2003]

Hi Norman,

I've read all the post and studied all the pics on the forum regarding the 80cc clutch. I've pulled all the parts off the shaft. It appears the inner shaft is frozen inside the outer shaft. Any ideas on how to remedy this?

Thanks,
Philip

 

[cardude]

My inner shaft also will not seem to move. I have not taken the innershaft out, but noticed when the engine kit came in the clutch lever didn't seem to do anything. Took the clutch cover off and sure enough no movement at all-- like the lever was just bumping up agains solid metal.

Did you ever get yours to work correctly?

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Norman,

I've read all the post and studied all the pics on the forum regarding the 80cc clutch. I've pulled all the parts off the shaft. It appears the inner shaft is frozen inside the outer shaft. Any ideas on how to remedy this?

Thanks,
Philip

 

[philipk2003]

Yes, I did get mine working properly. After getting the main shaft off the motor, I also removed the clutch cover, then the clutch base. once those two pieces are off, you can the remove the bearing. After the bearing is off, you can unscrew the spring retainer (star nut). Once the spring retainer (star nut) and the spring is off, you'll be left with the other side of the spring retainer (sliding retainer), the main shaft, the inner shaft, and the retainer pin. use a punch to tap out the retainer pin. now the sliding spring retainer and the inner shaft can be separated. Here, you fill find that the sliding spring retainer is a very poor fitting and rough part when mated to the main shaft. The inner shaft is proably rusted in the main shaft too. Clean it all out, finely sand paper and polish all the parts, put some high quality grease on all the surfaces. Make sure everything is fitting properly and smooth. It should all work after that.

By the way, my engine did not come with the steel ball between the clutch lever and the inner shaft. I had to buy one. And no, I didn't accidently drop it! haha.

Good Luck!

 

[XFired]

Some hung over China Man must have assembled you're engine..?

 

[DanielMaia]

Hi Norman, impressive explanation

How did you came off the 10T sprocket?

Thanks

 

[Norman]

to get the sprocket off you use the supplied puller some kits don't have them the vendors on the side bars do sell them for around $10.00? I'm not sure on the price but they are cheap and you will need one for removing any of the gears on the engine all gears are threaded for the puller.

 

[andrewg225]

are you going to write a book ... you have alot of good stuff here and you write vary well

 

[Norman]

You got to be joking. Me? write a book?!
nope. I do enough crazy things.
norman

 

[geoffrir]

Can some one tel me how to take the parts of the clutch apart including the shaft.

 

[Norman]

look at my sticky posts on tear down they show how to take the engine completely apart.

 

[geoffrir]

Thank you very much, you give me the informations, I was looking for.

Geoffrir

 

[goldminer4]

I tried adjusting the spring tension and it just seems to push the clutch push rod further out the left side so the cover sticks out about half an inch when you put it on. it doesn't seem to make the clutch engage any better either. if you adjust the star nut on the right side too far in then the clutch won't disengage at all and it still slips. any idea what could cause this? maybe clutch pads, though it is a new engine?

 

[goldminer4]

I got it working. I had to trim the rubber clutch pads down some
and hit the outer clutch plate really hard with a hammer, recommended
by BGF where I bought the motor. The combination got it working
enough to ride it, but it still slips when I start it.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

I would skip the advice from BGF in the future.

 

[Norman]

If you have trouble with getting the clutch lever to move on the engine. Either slip on a short length of tubing or use a crescent wrench or even vice grips to work the lever on the engine
do not use the hammer! You will have to have the 3 screws screwed in on the sprocket cover along with the short shaft and ball bearing in the main shaft.
The lever is a real bitzh to try and move with only your fingers the wrench or short length of tubing will make it a breeze to work the clutch arm to free it up if it is stuck.
Never use a wrench or tubing on the clutch lever on the handlebars to work the clutch as you will likely break something.