Where folks buying clutch pucks?
- Thread starter Pablo
- Start date
So I got the cheap pucks. Don't bother. They slip worse than the old ones, and they really aren't any thicker. Same fiber/string imbedded hard rubber. But really the worst part? The shape isn't really a trapezoid and they don't really fit worth a hoot. Really TIGHT........and therein proves something very valuable.....if the clutch pressure cannot squeeeeeze the puck on BOTH sides, it will slip if you have a high compression engine. And the puck MUST move in the trapezoidal hole of the "flywheel" gear to allow clamping force to get friction bite on both sides. Not many people understand this about the HT clutch.
I will manually form the pucks today, just because I want to ride my bike!!
I will manually form the pucks today, just because I want to ride my bike!!
No, from Zoom (great quick service, btw) but I doubt it makes any difference as to the source (all China junk).......but I could be wrong on that.
SBP is contacting CE/MM.
SBP is contacting CE/MM.
I was wondering if they were worth it. Sorry to hear about the fine tuning aspect but good to know. Would like to hear if they perform any better after your tailoring.
Yay - dialed in!!!
Yes the pucks perform WAY better after shaping. In fact - I highly advise anyone with tight pucks to make them looser. Simply remove the pucks and using a file or 80 grit paper sand each edge and the corners so the pucks are fairly loose in the holes. They just need to float loosely in the hole. Even I was amazed. My clutch still grabs a tiny bit when hot, but it's much better.
My bike has a fairly high compression ratio (and lots of power now) - but starting it takes some serious leg power, and the clutch has to be set "tight" or it will just slip. No slip under full power. Very cool.
Yes the pucks perform WAY better after shaping. In fact - I highly advise anyone with tight pucks to make them looser. Simply remove the pucks and using a file or 80 grit paper sand each edge and the corners so the pucks are fairly loose in the holes. They just need to float loosely in the hole. Even I was amazed. My clutch still grabs a tiny bit when hot, but it's much better.
My bike has a fairly high compression ratio (and lots of power now) - but starting it takes some serious leg power, and the clutch has to be set "tight" or it will just slip. No slip under full power. Very cool.
Yes,
I check this on all of my motors too.
Some come out of the box right; with friction material floating in the gear as it should. Others have poorly formed pucks that are stuffed into the holes.
If the pucks don't float you end up with 1/2 of the contact area, or half a clutch.
Jim
I check this on all of my motors too.
Some come out of the box right; with friction material floating in the gear as it should. Others have poorly formed pucks that are stuffed into the holes.
If the pucks don't float you end up with 1/2 of the contact area, or half a clutch.
Jim
The CNC is running the last of the recent sprocket adapter orders. Karen runs the CNC, which will leave me free to start the dies today.
Hopefully monday, maybe tuesday, they will be ready for testing.
Jim
I'd like to know too how thick new pucks are, anybody?
Mine are 6.50mm with lots and lots of miles on them.
I'd like to find something to make new ones.
I'd love to buy some if CE has made them yet. No one sells round ones but boygofast and i dont do paypal. Fairacing, i made mine from tire sidewall but the rubber is too soft. I picked clumps out of the gears inside after 30 miles but i does work, doubt if it lasts long unless i wear down to a better surface.
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