I'd like a new suppression plug wire so my speedometer will work.. I have a lot of ignition wires I could use.. have some 7mm suppression wire from my '51 Chevy ( not that old, I just bought reproduction originals cause I wanted them ).. it has the solid carbon strand in the center.. will that work, or does it have to be copper stranded?
new plug wire question
- Thread starter matt167
- Start date
Matt,
There is an ongoing debate about this subject. The people who sell the so called high performance( resistance) spark plug wire will tell you that it is superior to the kit supplied wire. If you have access to a good ohm meter you can answer the question yourself. Test an equal length of copper or metal core plug wire with ANY resistance wire and you'll see the difference. High performance plug wire is designed for automotive use or engines having a high voltage ignition systems. The Chinese 2 stroke ignition is not equal to these systems and added resistance between the voltage source, CDI, and the plug will have a negative effect on engine performance. Resistance equates to lower voltage at the plug and I don't care who says different. Lower voltage at the spark plug electrodes equates to a weaker spark. Now, lets look at the RF interference problems with electronic speedometers. Yes, in some cases, depending on the quality of the speedometer in question, a resistance spark plug wire might help with the problem. And, if your engine is running in good form and you have the correct fuel mixture and your plug is not prone to fouling due to worn rings or cylinder walls, you can run the resistance wire with little to no noticable effects. But lets stop foolling ourselves with claims that "High Performance" spark plug wire is better than a good copper core wire for these little engines. It just ain't so. I will continue to maintain that most ignition ills with the Chinese 2 stroke engines are due to the kit supplied spark plug and loose connection at the boot and the plug. A quality spark plug and a good automotive plug boot with a proper fitting terminal will fix most of those plug related problems. The other problem is poor wiring connections at the CDI, engine wire terminals. Get rid of the plug in connectors, solder the connections and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Eliminating bad connections will put you ahead in the performance department. Anyone care to argue with me?
There is an ongoing debate about this subject. The people who sell the so called high performance( resistance) spark plug wire will tell you that it is superior to the kit supplied wire. If you have access to a good ohm meter you can answer the question yourself. Test an equal length of copper or metal core plug wire with ANY resistance wire and you'll see the difference. High performance plug wire is designed for automotive use or engines having a high voltage ignition systems. The Chinese 2 stroke ignition is not equal to these systems and added resistance between the voltage source, CDI, and the plug will have a negative effect on engine performance. Resistance equates to lower voltage at the plug and I don't care who says different. Lower voltage at the spark plug electrodes equates to a weaker spark. Now, lets look at the RF interference problems with electronic speedometers. Yes, in some cases, depending on the quality of the speedometer in question, a resistance spark plug wire might help with the problem. And, if your engine is running in good form and you have the correct fuel mixture and your plug is not prone to fouling due to worn rings or cylinder walls, you can run the resistance wire with little to no noticable effects. But lets stop foolling ourselves with claims that "High Performance" spark plug wire is better than a good copper core wire for these little engines. It just ain't so. I will continue to maintain that most ignition ills with the Chinese 2 stroke engines are due to the kit supplied spark plug and loose connection at the boot and the plug. A quality spark plug and a good automotive plug boot with a proper fitting terminal will fix most of those plug related problems. The other problem is poor wiring connections at the CDI, engine wire terminals. Get rid of the plug in connectors, solder the connections and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Eliminating bad connections will put you ahead in the performance department. Anyone care to argue with me?
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
No arguing there . Left one trick out though . The speedometer cable can be shielded. as easily as carefully spiraled around with aluminum foil . Then cover it all up neatly with electrical tape and or wire loom. Last ground your shielding to the bike frame. That will block those pesky RF probs from talking the speedometer
Outrunner
New Member
I agree with you totally 2 Door. As far as a "hi performance" plug wire, it really
doesn't get better than a solid core wire for sure. As far as preventing RF from
affecting one's speedometer, I use a RF clamp on filter that I bought from a
RC hobby store for model airplanes. It is made by Horizon Hobby Inc.217-355-
9522 in Champaign Il. The RF filter took about 2 minutes to install and works
perfectly.
Attachments
well, my '51 Chevy is anything but a normal car, to todays standards.. it's got a 6v system anything but high energy ignition, and stock it uses copper stranded wire stock. models that had radios, got a Motorola radio supressor in the coil wire.. the parts store stuff is all radio supression, altho they do sell universal sets which is steel stranded...
I did notice my Chevy runs smoother with the original reproduction copper stranded wires tho.. you could set a full glass of water on the valve cover and not spill a drop at idle
I unscrewed the NGK plug wire cap from the '78 DS-125 I have that is blown up and tried to use it but it don't fit on the shorter plug..
I did notice my Chevy runs smoother with the original reproduction copper stranded wires tho.. you could set a full glass of water on the valve cover and not spill a drop at idle
I unscrewed the NGK plug wire cap from the '78 DS-125 I have that is blown up and tried to use it but it don't fit on the shorter plug..
Motoschwinn
Member
I bought a coil wire kit by Accel, came with the wire and a couple of boots. At the same time I put in a NGK plug and changed my stock filter out with one from Sick Parts. Was like getting a new motor! After reading 2Door's post I'm going to solder up those connections too. It wasn't a copper strand wire...
I can't say which made the most difference, as I did this all at once.
However it does idle much better, and starts very quick. More power & pulls better on the hills.
I can't say which made the most difference, as I did this all at once.
However it does idle much better, and starts very quick. More power & pulls better on the hills.
Pablo,
That's all very interesting reading and just so you don't think I disagree I'll tell you that we used to use Magnecore wire on our 9 second, Super Comp, 32 Austin. The only problem is in all their litature I didn't see any mention of Chinese 2 stroke bicycle engines.
Tom
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probably due to the fact there low resistance wires being race wires... 1 of the main reasons suppression cable is used in automotive is not because it works better because it doesn't. it's so radios and TV's ( those of us who still have antenne's ) don't buzz or go out due to noise.. if you look at an old drag car running a magneto, you'll find solid core plug wires.. you'll find MSD boxes say you can't run solid core.. that's because they can't control the low ignition resistance on the secondary circuit. they can't keep up, it all runs off induction but there the coil power and controled ground...
you don't even need a plug wire to create spark.. crimp on some plug ends on a properly sized automotive engine vacuum hose and hook them up.. you'll be supprised to find out that the engine will run... this is because it carries a resistance of 3,000 ohms, which is nearly the same as basic 7mm suppression plug wire.. 3,000 ohms sounds like a lot, but consider a low voltage coil can put out 10k volts, and 3,000 ohms becomes little
you don't even need a plug wire to create spark.. crimp on some plug ends on a properly sized automotive engine vacuum hose and hook them up.. you'll be supprised to find out that the engine will run... this is because it carries a resistance of 3,000 ohms, which is nearly the same as basic 7mm suppression plug wire.. 3,000 ohms sounds like a lot, but consider a low voltage coil can put out 10k volts, and 3,000 ohms becomes little
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