Tube frame Ebike build

I cast bullets using wheel weights, I flash harden them by dropping them from the mold to a bucket of water. We have shot cast bullets at up to 1650 FPS with no bore fouling. It would be interesting to see if dropping the cast cable end in water or oil would help it last longer.
 
I've used these without any problems...
cable end.jpg
 
Cable stops are common and widely available,
Just go to Amazon or E Bay and search "Throttle Cable Stop"
 
I’ve never had good luck with those because they don’t clamp on enough of the cable. The stop that comes stock on mechanical brakes is a lot better using a little formed sheet metal piece to clamp on 5/16” of the cable instead of only the dia of the screw. I’ve had many cables break where the screw in the cable stop clamps down.

Tom so zinc is better? I got plenty of that. I just though lead was best.
 
Tony,
Zinc it a helluva lot harder and the pill shaped cable ends for brakes and most everything else see quite high straight line loads. Lead has historically been used as lubricant and as I said before lead alloys are not much better. Melting point also is a indicator. Lead 621.5 F Zinc 782.2 F
I didn't do much looking around. There should be Engineering standards like ASTM & SAE to name a few.

Tom
 
curtisfox said:
How about silver solder like they are using for plumbing now?............Curt
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Silver solder on what Curt? To attach a brass pill to a cable end? I have in years gone by, silver soldered carbide onto 4140 pre hard lathe tool shanks. Carbide usually failed before the silver let go.

Down here all the copper joints have O-Ring seals. Why that was never don fifty years ago?
Miss-alignment never again. Or most new construction round here is color coded LDPE tubing.
Plumbers are getting dumber by the minute. (Pardon my PI ness)

Tom
 
With out getting into a peeing match on Tony's thread Curt.
With all due respect. For the archives, we need engineering or empirical examples of silver, or silver solder twisted wire cable ends.

Tom
 
May work or not… but this is my garage and I don’t have much. I got zinc! I’ll report back if the lead breaks again and I’ll pour in zinc.

Here’s what I’m lookin at.. to replace my smoked motor.

QS Motor High Power 260 3000W V3 72V 100kph Spoke Hub Motor for Electric Bicycle Dirt Bike

QS Motor High Power 260 3000W V3 72V 100kph Spoke Hub Motor for Electric Bicycle Dirt Bike
cnqsmotor.com

Spoke calculator says 85mm so I should go 83mm. Gonna be an even more difficult build than before with the 105mm spokes. This hub is an inch bigger per side.

IMG_7335.jpeg


This motors approx 9lb heavier; with a fatter rim and tire that’ll be around +13lbs. Bring my rear wheel to 50lb. But, 26% more torque, able to handle more phase amps. Would have to mill out my dropouts for 12mm axle.

Inspections this week. Got some work to do. Put rear brake back on, modify wiring slightly to get brake switches to work, fab up front turn signal mount and wire them in.
 
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You are the leader of the pack when it comes to Ebikes Tony.

A comical aside. Got a call this last Sunday from the other Tom Peterson in Ontario, WI..
He had just come back from a three week odyssey of Greatful Dead concerts. Weird guy, but I like him.
Told me that on 7/31 he was taking delivery of a Ebike, folds too, and comes with a extra battery too!
For the Lordly price of $75 USD. I ain't heard how that worked out yet. I did kinda hinted that wouldn't make a hill. I better check and see if his still alive. Most ways off the 500ft high ridge Tom lives on are steep roads coming off.

Tom
 
Well what I thought was a 3 hour job turned into 3 days. First off I had to replace my 1/2” all thread swingarm pivot (.475-.480”) to a grade 5 bolt with a far more precision shoulder at .495” and more strength. To do so I had to press the bearings to full depth. Well tryin to take it apart, a bushing between bearing and pivot mount got deformed and took the inner race with it. I was hot! I was able to put it back together with the damaged inner race because it did not break cleanly, apparently the inner race is two halves with a formed sleeve inside like a rivet which broke in such a way that it would only fit back together in one way. Worked out.

Next up I had to fab up turn signal mounts for the front and in a moment of brain farting stripped the bolt holes in the trees because there was less engagement. Drilled and retapped the M6 to 5/16-18.

Reinstalled my rear brake and disc. Still working on that. Had to remove the rear wheel and motor cables to get the disc on. Had made special bolts with the head cut down to prevent cutting into the motor cable.

Have to splice in another plug for my taillight to parallel it with the horn output. This way I can map my brake switches to Horn to not have the switches cut power when I hit mechanical brakes.

So this is why drill presses have a table that can swing around and rotate too. You can clamp something to it and drill several holes without reclamping the part.
 

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Tom from Rubicon said:
Resizing the triple tree threads to 10mm?

Tom
Click to expand...
No I went to a 5/16 on the handle bar clamp bolts. Stock was m6. I do everything I can in inches, always. All my new good hardware stainless or grade 5,8 always inch. Harleys shouldn’t be metric

Put the rear disc and foot lever back on. Now I have 3 brakes. Checked switch works and is adjusted correctly. Already did the controller mapping brake switches to horn just have to solder it in.
 

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