I blindly cheaper out, cylinder head is part of jug

Motojoe2492

Member
I don’t mind how it’s constructed so much, I can always upgrade and get new parts, which I plan on eventually anyway. I just thought it was an interesting design, and can’t say I’ve seen any like that on here before ‍rotfl

I took a screenshot for the model number, and some pictures. Anyone know much about it?
 

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That’s the new design that started showing up a couple of years ago, chainsaws like stihl and husky use it. Maybe someone will chime in that has one and give their thoughts on it.
 
All of the 50mn bore 80-100cc engines have the same design.


I would like to sneak a 100cc in at some point. This one hopefully will hold out and perform well. I’m happy so far, and have a different exhaust and tensioner on its way
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I am curious what the possibility of this being an upgrade are? I will double check my head bolt pattern (or jug bolt pattern) to be sure. I just would like the possibility of other upgrades and if anyone has jug and head suggestions, I’d be willing to look into it. Mine runs pretty decent as it is so it’s nothing I need, just want the option
 

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That looks to be the same as what you have now, depending on the wrist pin height, there are piston, cylinder kits available to upgrade your bottom end. Look for 49mm or 50mm bore kits, not recommending this company but BGF on ebay lists a kit.
 
The kit from BGF states it's for a long connecting rod crankshaft so you have to know what is in yours.
 
Here’s what you need to know.
 

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That looks to be the same as what you have now, depending on the wrist pin height, there are piston, cylinder kits available to upgrade your bottom end. Look for 49mm or 50mm bore kits, not recommending this company but BGF on ebay lists a kit.
I have the single piece jug, which I wouldn’t mind getting away from of everything pans out, but it really runs fine so this would be one day when I am ready to upgrade without buying a different engine. I’d go with a machined head probably
 
The ones Ive seen looked to be the manufacturers way of having to deal with less parts and easier rebuilds.

I mean who the f*** in there right mind builds a motor that the top of the jug dont come off?

Tho they may have a positive side I fail to see it.
 
Getting higher performance from a one piece cylinder will be a challenge, there's no way to increase compression other than a thinner cylinder base gasket, that in turn will change port timing. I haven't worked in that area so I don't have any knowledge of the results.
 
Been done for years, mostly chain saws, LOL. Nothing new, they also had read valve carbs on the crank case instead of jug..........Curt
It seems like a solid design, runs like a champ so far in this break in period anyway. If I’m able to just put studs on and switch to a different jug and head then I may try it eventually, but most likely would just get a bigger engine if I were to go that far anyway
 
Good luck and ride safe.
I just got my wide crank arms and only changed the left side so I could clear my pull starter. I have a trailer now to carry my tent and ****, I am almost out of my apartment and into storage units. Gotta find a place to set up home now.
 

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It was all going well but unfortunately my rag joint bent my spokes and jammed my back wheel and bent it. I have until tomorrow to be out of my apartment, I am hoping the wheel in storage will fit this bike. Otherwise I’m effed, it’s my only ride right now. Wish me luck
 
This rig did beautifully. I made it sixteen miles from the apartment I’ve continued to squat in since no one has come to bother me yet lol then my cheap pull starter shattered and jammed the magneto. And broke the end of the crank shaft. I pushed the bike and huge load the whole 16 miles back. I recorded the ride to the breakdown point. I had a long trip ahead of me. Probably still had 60 miles to go ‍
.kick2
 

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