xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
Those rag joint mounts actually do put a lot of undue strain on the spokes. The AGK carb and manifold should work. That is the next mod I will be doing.
Hello and Welcome!
- Thread starter Dan
- Start date
Those rag joint mounts actually do put a lot of undue strain on the spokes. The AGK carb and manifold should work. That is the next mod I will be doing.
Rusty_Nail
Active Member
How much are the aftermarket sprocket mounts?
xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
Search "motorized bicycle hub mounts" on Amazon. Prices vary by seller and size, and some come with sprockets while others do not. However, the average is around $32.
Rusty_Nail
Active Member
Ok. Thanks will do.
Blu5150
New Member
Hi I'm blu..38m and got into the motorized bike scene around 6 months ago.. been trying different setups..I live in austin TX and currently have a 700c gmc denali road bike with a 66/80cc China girl motor getting 50mph on flat and topped 63 on downhill.. I'm very open minded to learning new things and have no problem enough critism.. let me know what y'all think
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xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
DAMN MAN, thats hella speedy for a 700c bike, and super speedy for a 66cc china kit! Glad to see the frame is pretty burly for an aluminum road bike. What mods are you runnin?
I recommend installing an adjustable dual leg kickstand. I have a 2 into 1 stand, and it works quite nicely. stays well out of the way of my chain while also holding my bike stable. Also, whenever you can, upgrade to disc brakes! This is IMPERATIVE when rollin above 30mph! Those caliper arms don't put in much power at all, and you run the risk of overheating your rims and blowin a tire. You will want at least 180mm front and rear, and make sure they're slotted, not drilled. Slots in the rotors improve the friction generated.
I'm runnin a 79cc predator on 26x2.35 tires right now, and my build, with 8 gears, goes through five and hits 35mph so far, at least until I fix my valve lash. I'm planning on at least 40mph after that little adjustment. I've sanded down my cylinder head on a 1/4" thick piece of acrylic taped to a board, installed 18lb springs, bypassed the governor (gonna remove it completely as soon as I can get a billet flywheel for the thing), and installed a dellorto carb. I'm gonna be replacing that with a pbhg19 though. As for RPMs, I think I'm turnin about 4300, 5300? I gotta have it tached. I'm also going to have a tuned exhaust made once I'm done with mods. I'm tryin to make this thing run 55mph reliably.
As far as the bike itself, its a 90s rigid steel MTB. I've installed a Monarch dual springer, the SBP four stroke shift kit (modded to fit), 26" magnesium rims, cable actuated hydraulic calipers (soon to have compressionless cable housing), Schwalbe Fat Franks front and rear, 160mm disc rotors front and rear, which are totally underpowered for this 70lb bike, and of course, a sturdy rack for the battery box.
I'm letting the box weather a bit before I sand it down, retorch it, and apply the varnish.
Daniel Runyon
New Member
Hello
I just put together a mb on a bike I bought for $8. Learned a lot of lessons. Currently I have around $280 in the project.
The bike was a 1977 amf Shimano three speed. I know it was 1977 because it still has the original inner tubes. The bike was a women's, which caused my first problem. The engine mounted too high up, and I had to sleeve the frame so the engine would clamp securely. Also, the exhaust didn't fit. Worst of all, the chain that comes with the zeda kits is kind of weak and would break on bumpy inclines. The final blow came when I noticed the drive chain was sawing one of the rear supports in half.
I've ordered a new frame, bringing my total to about $435 so far, which should be here Friday.
I just put together a mb on a bike I bought for $8. Learned a lot of lessons. Currently I have around $280 in the project.
The bike was a 1977 amf Shimano three speed. I know it was 1977 because it still has the original inner tubes. The bike was a women's, which caused my first problem. The engine mounted too high up, and I had to sleeve the frame so the engine would clamp securely. Also, the exhaust didn't fit. Worst of all, the chain that comes with the zeda kits is kind of weak and would break on bumpy inclines. The final blow came when I noticed the drive chain was sawing one of the rear supports in half.
I've ordered a new frame, bringing my total to about $435 so far, which should be here Friday.
xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
You have an alignment problem. If the new frame doesn't fix that, you're gonna spend even more money on a new frame. Be aware of that.
Spend the money on a quality #40 motorcycle chain from JT. The one I have is handling the power straight from my clutch with zero issues. As long as you have everything aligned, you shouldn't need to worry about one of those chains for a good long time.
You MUST invest in a chain breaker and a pin press! These two tools will make your life a LOT easier. JT usually includes a master link, and it has a strong, reusable clip. Do not lose it. If you try to push a pin into your chain after you've pushed it out, make sure to use the pin press to mushroom the ends SLIGHTLY! Too much and you will have that pin binding the links.
If you don't have any welding skills, I highly recommend investing in classes. I haven't yet, and I regret it every time I look at my bike, because I can see so many ways I can improve it. I have almost 2k into my bike now, and I'm still not done with it. Ive been replacing and upgrading parts regularly though, just trying to get electrical and braking up to par. I also made several mistakes on this, so don't be discouraged by my spending 2k on one build. Most people don't even spend 1k on these.
Spend the money on a quality #40 motorcycle chain from JT. The one I have is handling the power straight from my clutch with zero issues. As long as you have everything aligned, you shouldn't need to worry about one of those chains for a good long time.
You MUST invest in a chain breaker and a pin press! These two tools will make your life a LOT easier. JT usually includes a master link, and it has a strong, reusable clip. Do not lose it. If you try to push a pin into your chain after you've pushed it out, make sure to use the pin press to mushroom the ends SLIGHTLY! Too much and you will have that pin binding the links.
If you don't have any welding skills, I highly recommend investing in classes. I haven't yet, and I regret it every time I look at my bike, because I can see so many ways I can improve it. I have almost 2k into my bike now, and I'm still not done with it. Ive been replacing and upgrading parts regularly though, just trying to get electrical and braking up to par. I also made several mistakes on this, so don't be discouraged by my spending 2k on one build. Most people don't even spend 1k on these.
Daniel Runyon
New Member
I don't think it's an alignment problem. If I had a pic from the rear it would make sense. The two supports that span between the axle and seat have a very narrow gap toward the top. The high mounting position compounded the lack of clearance. In any case I ordered one of those aluminum integrated tank affairs.
After I'm confident with this build, my next one will be a masterpiece. I have a decent background in mechanics, and I have an idea that keeps me awake at night. The engine alone is over $2k...
After I'm confident with this build, my next one will be a masterpiece. I have a decent background in mechanics, and I have an idea that keeps me awake at night. The engine alone is over $2k...
xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
Ok, that makes sense now. Yes, the new frame will fix that then. One thing you should look out for is the rear hub width. One frame out there uses an extremely hard to find 150mm hub width, while others use 135mm usually. 150mm is primarily a front fat bike wheel.
Looks like you also have the original singlewall rims. I would change to double wall asap. They're stiffer and won't break or drop spokes as easily. If you're doin 30 or under, you dont need disc brakes, but they're nice to have, especially DH MTB brakes.
I can't tell, but it seems like you're using the stock ragjoint. Ditch it. You WILL lose spokes with it if you don't install it just perfectly right, most especially with single wall rims. Get a hub adapter and a 40t sprocket. I also recommend having a wheel builder put the proper tension into your spokes within rim limits, so that your rims will last longer. It won't stray from true as easily, more power will be transmitted to the rubber, and you get less strain on the spokes because they deflect and rub less.
indian22
Well-Known Member
Daniel frame selection is and has been a bane to those building their first motorized bikes and for those building one off, non-kit bikes alike. Fabricating or selecting & altering frames becomes even more important as build time and $$ invested become exponential metrics, and possible impediments, to completion. I would hazard that most of my difficulties encountered during builds has been due, in large measure, to lack of adequate frame space with which to build. Just because the measurements and the mockups suggest a proper fit doesn't mean they will necessarily work as required under motor power and pedal.
Good mechanical skill set and a plan are great advantages to bring to this hobby and I wish you great fun and success along the way.
Rick C.
Good mechanical skill set and a plan are great advantages to bring to this hobby and I wish you great fun and success along the way.
Rick C.
Daniel Runyon
New Member
Thanks for the tips! I obviously replaced the tires and tubes, and I'm going to use these rims until the tires get worn a bit. I'm probably going to switch to moped rims at that point, which will upgrade rims tires brakes and sprocket all in one go. I'm pretty sure a moped axle will work on the 150mm frame. I'm using the 44 tooth right now and cruising around 20-25. The front caliper is plenty to stop me. I got an SRT chain along with an engine mounted spring tensioner.
All this expense is well worth it, when you fill up for 87 cents.
All this expense is well worth it, when you fill up for 87 cents.
indian22
Well-Known Member
Daniel though I have other vehicles I haven't driven or ridden them in several years, all are currently black tagged. The money I've saved on fuel, maintenance, tags and insurance is far greater each year than the costs involved in building a couple of nice bikes per year. The added advantage is that at 72 years young my health improved dramatically and steadily over the period I'm referring to. I just wish I'd started doing this twenty years sooner. Though it may not add years to my life; it's certainly added to the quality of the life I've been given.
I'm an advocate and bike every day in some way, year round, though I avoid downpours and ice, cold or hot weather doesn't prevent my riding. I enjoy building for sure but I build so that I can ride on dependable transport. I have pedal bikes, electrics, gas 4 stroke and two. High hp and modest power and pure pedal bikes. Love them all and ride them all though some more than others. I have seven powered and one more building so I'd say I'm serious about this. It's easy to get the bug, non-COVID, when you ride quality builds!
Have fun with this and learn from the mistakes of others. It's way cheaper and safer.
Rick C.
I'm an advocate and bike every day in some way, year round, though I avoid downpours and ice, cold or hot weather doesn't prevent my riding. I enjoy building for sure but I build so that I can ride on dependable transport. I have pedal bikes, electrics, gas 4 stroke and two. High hp and modest power and pure pedal bikes. Love them all and ride them all though some more than others. I have seven powered and one more building so I'd say I'm serious about this. It's easy to get the bug, non-COVID, when you ride quality builds!
Have fun with this and learn from the mistakes of others. It's way cheaper and safer.
Rick C.
Hello everyone.
New here, had register myself a few months ago, when I started a new project with a bicycle kit.
I am from Europe, my country is Portugal and I hope to learn and share relevance information and more.
I have done motorcycling sport and competition (2 and 4 wheels) but I also have a big passion for bicycles.
After some 2 and 4 wheel projects for road racing I started one project for a 4 stroke bicycle with a regular kit, that I would like to share here. It looks the best forum regarding this matter.
Thanks and cheers to all.
GregValiant
Member
This is great...I feel like a kid here.
I've retired to Florida from Michigan and was looking for a hobby so I built a motorbike. It came out pretty good and once parts quit falling off all was good. Now there is an issue and I'll find a spot to ask the questions. Here's the bike. Micargi 3-speed beach cruiser with a Bikeberry 48cc kit. Topeak quick-change rear rack (I like it), speedo, Ipod (gotta have tunes), fishing rod holder and toolbox (no it's not really a NOS tank). 40 tooth rear sprocket and it's a real butt shaker at 25mph. The headlight and tailight finally arrived after being stuck in the mail system for weeks. They actually look pretty good and I'll try to get a photo once it quits raining.
I've retired to Florida from Michigan and was looking for a hobby so I built a motorbike. It came out pretty good and once parts quit falling off all was good. Now there is an issue and I'll find a spot to ask the questions. Here's the bike. Micargi 3-speed beach cruiser with a Bikeberry 48cc kit. Topeak quick-change rear rack (I like it), speedo, Ipod (gotta have tunes), fishing rod holder and toolbox (no it's not really a NOS tank). 40 tooth rear sprocket and it's a real butt shaker at 25mph. The headlight and tailight finally arrived after being stuck in the mail system for weeks. They actually look pretty good and I'll try to get a photo once it quits raining.
Bikeguy Joe
Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Hi guys. It's been awhile.
I had to take a break for a bit, but I'm still in the game. In fact, I just order two more 2 stroke chinese bicycle engine kits.
Looking forward to helping out (once again).
I had to take a break for a bit, but I'm still in the game. In fact, I just order two more 2 stroke chinese bicycle engine kits.
Looking forward to helping out (once again).
xXNightRiderXx
Active Member
welcome back joe.
I think I can tell you why your bike shakes at 25mph: your weight distribution is unbalanced. Because of that toolbox, you have more weight on your left side than your right, which has been known to cause shimmies at higher speeds. You should try to have your toolbox as close to the center of the frame as possible, and place your lighter items on the sides. You want those sideways forces to be as small as possible.
Here's a couple photos of my bike for reference:
Please forgive the dirt and dust, it's been sitting ever since it developed a knock. i only just pulled it out because I got that headlight and a new motor to put in it (not bothering with fixing the old motor, just swapping the head over and using the old motor for parts).
I still have upgrades I need to do here in order to make it legal for street use. The current 160mm rotors are NOWHERE close to sufficient to stop in 20ft from 20mph. The front brake has almost no power. For safety and stability, I also need to change the forks out OR redie the threads so I can get the crown race properly seated in the bearings. The way it sits now, I don't trust anyone but myself to handle this bike safely at high speeds.
I think I can tell you why your bike shakes at 25mph: your weight distribution is unbalanced. Because of that toolbox, you have more weight on your left side than your right, which has been known to cause shimmies at higher speeds. You should try to have your toolbox as close to the center of the frame as possible, and place your lighter items on the sides. You want those sideways forces to be as small as possible.
Here's a couple photos of my bike for reference:
Please forgive the dirt and dust, it's been sitting ever since it developed a knock. i only just pulled it out because I got that headlight and a new motor to put in it (not bothering with fixing the old motor, just swapping the head over and using the old motor for parts).
I still have upgrades I need to do here in order to make it legal for street use. The current 160mm rotors are NOWHERE close to sufficient to stop in 20ft from 20mph. The front brake has almost no power. For safety and stability, I also need to change the forks out OR redie the threads so I can get the crown race properly seated in the bearings. The way it sits now, I don't trust anyone but myself to handle this bike safely at high speeds.
Khalil Brooks
Member
Hey I’m new here. Built a 66cc bike and put about 10-15 miles on it so far. I’m enjoying the knowledge here but it’s hard for me to navigate bc I’ve never been part of a forum or anything. Can anyone point me to some exhaust gasket help? I’ve blown mine and want to know if there’s anything I can use as a temp replacement while one is shipped