Rag joint or hub adapter the only options?

Will do.

The 2stroke supercharger on a 2hp CG won't work well, requires too much power to get it pumping. However the new electric driven superchargers powered by lithium batteries would pump instantly on demand. It would be costly. Zeda has a video of a CG, highly modified, billet block CG (80 cc ?) on their dyno that puts out almost 17 hp @ 9,000 rpm also quite expensive. I'd think that would power a purpose built bike 90 plus with a small fairing.

Rick C.
Seen this done with a smog pump off a old Ford 69 i believe, on a motorcycle. LOL. But only think it would be only worthy for a race bike, as life for a china engine would not last long........Curt
 
Seen this done with a smog pump off a old Ford 69 i believe, on a motorcycle. LOL. But only think it would be only worthy for a race bike, as life for a china engine would not last long........Curt

I've got to laugh Curtis when I think of what's taking place inside one of these CG 2 strokes with the added case pressure of supercharging. Talk about "stuffing" the case! A cheaper way is getting a one or two pound bottle of nitrous oxide & developing a true shot kit to control the spray volume and duration. Please don't anyone think I'm referring to the "boost bottles" being pedaled by some vendors. I'm talking big boy drag racing chem charging on a 66cc motor...a little will do a lot guaranteed. I used it drag racing cars and bikes, no mystery about it.

If used just enough to triple or quadruple power on occasion, engine life might not be too greatly effected as racers have found over the years that the nitrous is cooling the fuel mix and the power produced is smoother than that produced by the use of nitro mixes, indeed used in correct ratios nitrous oxide smooths out and complements the explosive nitro as well.

Developing the delivery system spray nozzle and release valve is the key to not blowing things up in engines big and especially small.

Just a thought.

Rick C.
 
Couple thoughts- Rick those are beautiful, like you are an artist and the bike are your medium. It a bit humbling honestly. Thanks for all the information.

Lewdog- I’m not completely sure what you did with the hub adapter- looks like the Allen bolt is being used to pen against the hub? Then an extra clamp, the silver piece- screwed to what?, the sprocket or back to the first clamp. I do like the idea of increasing the surface area on the hub as rick mentioned.

Anyone want to suggest a hub adapter brand or vender? I guess will all the sponsors I should start there.

Final thought, there has been considerable public discussion regarding my character, and while “stuck up assholes” isn’t specifically mentioned it is implied to some degree- feel free to search it out and add your assessment there.

*curious editorial note- when one types out a$$hole it automatically changes to ****, but if it’s plural a$$holeS well that’s ok
 
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First thanks for the props & you're welcome! Next I think Lew. has strengthened the adapter grip by his mod. It appears that he purchased a very narrow hub adapter as did I once long ago. I couldn't get mine to hold at all and later modified it for a disc rotor mount...worked well for that. The best hub adapter I've used is the Sportsman Flyer adapter that is three piece clamp, wide clamping surface, larger bolts and the sprocket towers are longer to help clear wider tires. These cost more but are worth every penny, well machined for a tight fit as far as I know they are only available to fit 1.5" hubs. I won't build a bike with skinny hubs one reason being lack of surface circumference to hold a hub adaptor in place and typically weaker bearings.

All the other adapters, which are made like two piece Manic mechanic, are knockoffs & may be poorly machined tolerance wise. The original Manic is a well machined adapter, but lacks the added design features of the Sportsman mentioned earlier.

Finally though some may judge your actions no one on this forum except yourself can possibly judge your character with any certainty of accuracy. I hope my own actions don't offend though I'm certain my character still needs lots of work.

Rick C.
 
That 3 piece adapter looks great- I may end up going that way. $80 ain’t cheap, but that’s vital piece. Their sprocket options look good too-

The heart is deceitful above all things, and desperately wicked: who can know it?
 
Also the metal piece between the adapter is just an aluminum clamp that I put there to prevent the clamp from sliding towards the spokes which makes the sprocket miss align and then the chain problems begin, AND yes that is an Allen bolt I inserted taped and threaded ,so as for clamping to the hub the extra bolt helps big for the different diameter hubs ,

Also what's said is said cant change that ,not here to harass anyone ,here to learn and share so thank you for the feed back ....
...over
 
Wow man sweet ride looks vintage ,long and low nice style man

Thanks both these motors centerlines are well below axle height. Also The Simplex frame is 53" wheelbase, 5 " longer than the original frame and 4" lower...ground clearance is about 3". The saddle height is 25" so it's lower than the tire height.
Also there's a bit of rake to the fork and the Indian style leaf fork gives the appearance of more length. Bobber saddle and again the use of Indian style board track bars gives the bike a racy look. Both the engines are Honda pushrod clones with wet clutch and five speed tranny. HD 14.5 hp the Simplex a couple less.

Rick C.
 
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Thanks both these motors centerlines are well below axle height. Also The Simplex frame is 53" wheelbase, 5 " longer than the original frame and 4" lower...ground clearance is about 3". The saddle height is 25" so it's lower than the tire height.
Also there's a bit of rake to the fork and the Indian style leaf frame gives the appearance of more length. Bobber saddle and again the use of Indian style board track bars gives the bike a racy look. Bothe engines are Honda pushrod clones with wet clutch and five speed tranny. HD 14.5 hp the Simplex a couple less.

Rick C.
A-1 set up sir ,and thank you for the knowledge.......over
 
update I have completed the work bike build with the hub adaptors one I purchased from b.b.r,,one I made to work with , details , Coleman gas tank ,I think 49cc exhaust I think small expansion chamber bad buy but for now its working and top end rebuild 66 zelda parts not ported or polished but open transfers and the ex,Int portsare bigger,raised the with2 gaskets to clear the ex port and b.d.c., and trimmed the piston skirt to clear the int at t d c and so more squish and hi comp head ,pee wee exhaust and rung tung carb is total garbage but it gets me to work for now ,ultimately 21mm pwk ,better exp pipe with muf ,and gas cap
Got some picts
 

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update I have completed the work bike build with the hub adaptors one I purchased from b.b.r,,one I made to work with , details , Coleman gas tank ,I think 49cc exhaust I think small expansion chamber bad buy but for now its working and top end rebuild 66 zelda parts not ported or polished but open transfers and the ex,Int portsare bigger,raised the with2 gaskets to clear the ex port and b.d.c., and trimmed the piston skirt to clear the int at t d c and so more squish and hi comp head ,pee wee exhaust and rung tung carb is total garbage but it gets me to work for now ,ultimately 21mm pwk ,better exp pipe with muf ,and gas cap
Got some picts View attachment 102878 View attachment 102879 View attachment 102880
 
Lew that adapter should stay in place. The bike is coming along famously. Getting the motor sorted on everyday transport is a big deal. I've built several motos over the years with rear mounted tanks and there is a plus to this when it holds more fuel. The other thing I've done is run a kit tank up front on long rides; then I'd never worry about find fuel along the way.

You've done well.

Rick C.
 
update I have completed the work bike build with the hub adaptors one I purchased from b.b.r,,one I made to work with , details , Coleman gas tank ,I think 49cc exhaust I think small expansion chamber bad buy but for now its working and top end rebuild 66 zelda parts not ported or polished but open transfers and the ex,Int portsare bigger,raised the with2 gaskets to clear the ex port and b.d.c., and trimmed the piston skirt to clear the int at t d c and so more squish and hi comp head ,pee wee exhaust and rung tung carb is total garbage but it gets me to work for now ,ultimately 21mm pwk ,better exp pipe with muf ,and gas cap
Got some picts View attachment 102878 View attachment 102879 View attachment 102880
Oops posting extra mistake my bad
 
Thanks R I've used what I got from knowledge to parts, and allot of help from my friends, and now on to other issues thanks again good people
 
It's fascinating to read through this and many other threads that express your ideas and creativity. Thank you all! The idea of a supercharger for the CG engines, or any 2-stroke, has already been addressed nearly 100 years ago with the invention of the tuned pipe. Proper design and the ability to "tune" them with an adjustable sleeve is the key I think. Do you all think there is more that could be done or is the SBP expansion exhaust about as good as it can get?
 
For guys that are really getting into this as a long term passion I totally agree with you both, but I'll add that there is lots of treasure buried in threads that are many years old, that not only tell you what but how and why. We used to fabricate most of our parts from scratch or greatly alter existing parts that weren't originally designed for bikes let alone motorized bikes.
Now we just buy parts online and I say this is a good thing in general, but it can stifle creativity in some. Whiz mentioned expansion pipes & his comments were sound. There are some inexpensive X-pipes that basically are bolt on that make decent power/torque, but nothing like the performance of a KMT or Yamaha factory racing pipe that's made for power on 100cc or less 2 cycle engines. Altering these to bolt up and then fine tuning to improve the 66cc China girl isn't simple or inexpensive, but gentlemen it's the best way to free up horse power in a GOOD basic motor that has a few modest power modifications. These are really loud & I've called them cop callers in the past & for good reason. The old posts show how it's done and it's fun to learn!

Rick C.
 
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