Hi, I'm Jish, I'm new and addicted

[SilkyPathology]

Received my 66cc silver flying horse 2 days ago and today I purchased a used custom huffy nel lusso for $50. Also received upgraded bolts and stud kit, billet intake, heavier chain, and upgraded chain tensioner. I start the build today! So excited I honestly can't sleep. Pics coming soon. Great site.

 

[xseler]

Howdy & welcome!!

Best of luck on your upcoming adventure!

 

[Chaz]

Welcome, Jish, to the forum. It's the first step to admit you have an addiction. There are many of us in the group.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. Better to do it right the first time. One thing, for example is to inspect the inside of the gas tank and rinse it out. Often there is bits of junk in there and can cause problems if not dealt with from the start.

many more tips to give you as you move along in your build.

 

[Chaz]

Also, do not over tighten the gas tank mounting studs as they can pull together and crack at the base causing an almost irreparable leak. There are many ways to avoid this but too tight is usually the cause.

 

[SilkyPathology]

Very nice. I really appreciate the tips. I knew about the tightening of the bolts. But I had not read about the washing out of the gas tank. I'm pretty bummed out right now due to the fact that my very 1st step as I went to put my sprocket and rear wheel back on the bike.I discovered I already screwed something up as the back wheel would not turn or would turn extremely slowly. I have done everything else that I could have on the build that isn't directly associated with rear wheel. I think I accidently BIndEd the coaster brake assembly inside the hub as I was trying to get the coaster brake arm off. Really thought I was gonna take my 1st test ride some point late yesterday evening.

 

[SilkyPathology]

Howdy & welcome!!

Best of luck on your upcoming adventure!

Thank you very much. I have officially been orientated as I struggle to get past the 1st step in the build. Oh how I would have never thought how much anger and frustration a coaster brake hub assembly could cause me.

 

[Chaz]

I've never had to deal with coaster brakes (I don't like them) so I can't offer assistance but I'm sure there are threads here to help with your installation.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Heck, I did away with pedals, but then it is no longer legal on roads, other than some forest and trail use with my OHV sticker. My rear wheel is actually a heavy duty 12 gauge spoke front wheel with sheave for belt drive.

 

[allen standley]

Hey Silky and welcome to the forum!
I use Coaster Brakes exclusively on all the bikes I've built. There are several Brands of coaster brake hubs on the market today. Hi-Stop, Falcon, and Shimano to name a few. First and foremost you need an understanding of how the coaster brake works so let's cut to the chase. Clear your head of it all then Watch this video. Meat of the info begins @ 3:56 It's the best help I can give without being right there with ya. Good Luck to you.

 

[Tyler6357]

Welcome! It is good to flush the tank with straight gas right out of the box, don't use water. Also, make sure you have a front brake, don't just rely on a coaster brake.

 

[allen standley]

Welcome! It is good to flush the tank with straight gas right out of the box, don't use water. Also, make sure you have a front brake, don't just rely on a coaster brake.

For Safety Sake! Most Certainly, ALL motorized bikes NEED Brakes on BOTH wheels.
Thanks Tyler!

 

[SilkyPathology]

Hey Silky and welcome to the forum!
I use Coaster Brakes exclusively on all the bikes I've built. There are several Brands of coaster brake hubs on the market today. Hi-Stop, Falcon, and Shimano to name a few. First and foremost you need an understanding of how the coaster brake works so let's cut to the chase. Clear your head of it all then Watch this video. Meat of the info begins @ 3:56 It's the best help I can give without being right there with ya. Good Luck to you.

Very nice. That did help a lot. Goi my to post a few pics when I get home of a few problems in having with my new build.

 

[Chaz]

Pictures are always helpful for solving issues. Fire away!

 

[SilkyPathology]

After switching out a rear wheel from a cruiser bike that was in much better condition my rear wheel has too much free play. I have ridden the bike maybe 3 miles or so slowly As I know that the side to side play in that wheel cannot be good. If you can see in the picture how there is a lock type washer with a nut on the outside on both sides. The problem is this does not adequately Support the hub and axle. I read early on that you must keep the coastal brake arm which I did by using a dremel to grind away the area that was hitting the sprocket bolts. After several tries to get the axle set up right with the coaster arm not having any free play I haven't had any success and have also read that if that coaster arm has to much play that it will eventually lead to me cracking my skull open. I'm really hoping that there is a way that I can add some washers Or any suggestions to get rid of that free play as I also own a welder. In the back of my mind I am already thinking that I am going to need to buy a compatable complete new wheel that is going to work better and start over with it or B, take it to a professional bike shop and have them get it straight. Because I know as far as safety goes if you get this area of the bike wrong it can have catastrophic results. I know what it is like to be seriously hurt in a bicycle accident. When I was 13 years old my face ate asphalt at probably 25 miles an hour going straight down a massive hill. 3 of my teeth broke with another pushed through my lip and the 1st time I looked in a mirror (2 days later) there was black assphault coating all of what was left of my front teeth. I can promise you the taste of asphalt coating the inside of your mouth and teeth is a taste that you will never forget.

 

[SilkyPathology]

I really appreciate all the help and dedication that a lot of guys on here give out Every day. There is so much information online that it can be a little overwhelming. Could any of you guys give me a few pointers on fine tuning some of the components so that it runs a little smoother as my bike seems to do what they call four stroking as it gets a little speed? I am so interested in this hobby and I'm already starting to plan out a second build for my son who originally laughed at my bike. But once his friends thought it was the coolest thing ever. He decided that he now wants to drive one to school. Only a mile away. It really is hard to decipher the good info from the bad info online and once I do become educated I will surely do my part to re educate others. Peace and love. Peace and love. R.S.

 

[allen standley]

Hello Silky,. I highly recommend you search plug Chop and needle adjustment on this forum. A white/grey spark plug tip is Lean, a Dark Brown/Black spark plug is Rich. A light Chocolate Brown Plug is what you want to see. If you are still running a Break In Gas Oil mix wait til you are done with it. Once your on the recommended 4oz oil 1Gal Gasoline Do a plug CHOP. A plug Chop is how you can visually check your spark plug for a ball park idea of whether you should adjust the needle up or down in the carb. A Rich condition will cause 4 stroking. About your 4 stroking - Unscrew the control cable cap off the top of the carb. carefully remove the spring and notice which groove the clip is located on the needle. If your engine runs lean you will want to increase fuel supply, lower the clip 1 notch. To Decrease fuel supply raise the clip 1 notch. Because you are 4 stroking you may need to decrease your fuel supply Raising the Clip Lowers the Needle in the carb. decreasing excess fuel. Once again Search Plug Chop and Needle Adjustment here on the forum. There is a wealth of info on this subject. Also Looking at your Coaster Brake. pic 220911 You can leave the wheel on the bike to do this. Leave the brake arm side tightened. On the sprocket side of the wheel, loosen the axle Nut and washer (if that applies) quarter inch or so away from frame. Back off the narrow locking nut from the bearing cone just a bit so it's not locked against the cone. You need to get at the bearing cone located furthest inside with a very NARROW 14 or 15mm open end wrench.
Carefully tighten the bearing cone till the sloppiness is gone and wheel is not wiggly on the axle. Then you should be able to re tighten the locking nut while holding cone with wrench in place. Then tighten the wheel axle nut.

 

[xseler]

Hello Silky,. I highly recommend you search plug Chop and needle adjustment on this forum. A white/grey spark plug tip is Lean, a Dark Brown/Black spark plug is Rich. A light Chocolate Brown Plug is what you want to see. If you are still running a Break In Gas Oil mix wait til you are done with it. Once your on the recommended 4oz oil 1Gal Gasoline Do a plug CHOP. A plug Chop is how you can visually check your spark plug for a ball park idea of whether you should adjust the needle up or down in the carb. A Rich condition will cause 4 stroking. About your 4 stroking - Unscrew the control cable cap off the top of the carb. carefully remove the spring and notice which groove the clip is located on the needle. If your engine runs lean you will want to increase fuel supply, lower the clip 1 notch. To Decrease fuel supply raise the clip 1 notch. Because you are 4 stroking you may need to decrease your fuel supply Raising the Clip Lowers the Needle in the carb. decreasing excess fuel. Once again Search Plug Chop and Needle Adjustment here on the forum. There is a wealth of info on this subject. Also Looking at your Coaster Brake. pic 220911 You can leave the wheel on the bike to do this. Leave the brake arm side tightened. On the sprocket side of the wheel, loosen the axle Nut and washer (if that applies) quarter inch or so away from frame. Back off the narrow locking nut from the bearing cone just a bit so it's not locked against the cone. You need to get at the bearing cone located furthest inside with a very NARROW 14 or 15mm open end wrench.
Carefully tighten the bearing cone till the sloppiness is gone and wheel is not wiggly on the axle. Then you should be able to re tighten the locking nut while holding cone with wrench in place. Then tighten the wheel axle nut.

Perfect! This should be a required first read for a newbie to the forum, as this answers 75% of the first time questions.

 

[SilkyPathology]

Hello Silky,. I highly recommend you search plug Chop and needle adjustment on this forum. A white/grey spark plug tip is Lean, a Dark Brown/Black spark plug is Rich. A light Chocolate Brown Plug is what you want to see. If you are still running a Break In Gas Oil mix wait til you are done with it. Once your on the recommended 4oz oil 1Gal Gasoline Do a plug CHOP. A plug Chop is how you can visually check your spark plug for a ball park idea of whether you should adjust the needle up or down in the carb. A Rich condition will cause 4 stroking. About your 4 stroking - Unscrew the control cable cap off the top of the carb. carefully remove the spring and notice which groove the clip is located on the needle. If your engine runs lean you will want to increase fuel supply, lower the clip 1 notch. To Decrease fuel supply raise the clip 1 notch. Because you are 4 stroking you may need to decrease your fuel supply Raising the Clip Lowers the Needle in the carb. decreasing excess fuel. Once again Search Plug Chop and Needle Adjustment here on the forum. There is a wealth of info on this subject. Also Looking at your Coaster Brake. pic 220911 You can leave the wheel on the bike to do this. Leave the brake arm side tightened. On the sprocket side of the wheel, loosen the axle Nut and washer (if that applies) quarter inch or so away from frame. Back off the narrow locking nut from the bearing cone just a bit so it's not locked against the cone. You need to get at the bearing cone located furthest inside with a very NARROW 14 or 15mm open end wrench.
Carefully tighten the bearing cone till the sloppiness is gone and wheel is not wiggly on the axle. Then you should be able to re tighten the locking nut while holding cone with wrench in place. Then tighten the wheel axle nut.

Very nice! Thank you so much for the detailed info as it has enlightened me more so than the 2 hours I wasted a few days reading 20 different opinions of how the other persons opinion of the problem is wrong. I honestly am very impressed with the good people on this forum. When I get home from work today I will attempt to adjust the cone nut. Is it worth it for me to go out and buy a cone nut wrench from the bike shop as I was going to buy a sprocket puller for much more than they are online. I can't help it! Every day my bike is 95% ready and I have to wait for parts to come it gives me that sad excited feeling that I used to get when I was a child. I will post a couple more pictures this evening because as I think about it, I don't think the way my rear axle is would prevent that readjustment with wheel on. But I might be wrong.

 

[allen standley]

If you run a coaster brake you will want one of these. It's a maintenance must have tool . Really cheap. While you are having down time go to your local bike shop, walfart, or harbor freight.
Here's what they look like real thin..Be Brave Do It!
https://www.amazon.com/Fantasy-Life...sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=narrow+14mm+bike+wrench

 

[SilkyPathology]

If you run a coaster brake you will want one of these. It's a maintenance must have tool . Really cheap. While you are having down time go to your local bike shop, walfart, or harbor freight.
Here's what they look like real thin..Be Brave Do It!
https://www.amazon.com/Fantasy-Life...sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=narrow+14mm+bike+wrench

Just got back from picking on up from Chinamart per your recommendation. Thanks again Allen. I take good advice and run with it. I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AITEFEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bVhTzbB2XTDP4 for now and shall see how that with coaster brake works out. I know that it is highly advised to have rotar brakes. Oil coming out of exhaust in liquid form is normal during break in period? I'm going to post another picture or 2 to let you see how my rear axle is setup before I start adjustment. Thanks again for all the help.