Official 3D Motorsport Manual Clutch Thread

How's it going ....would this work on the 79cc hf. I know the shaft size is different but could I just use a shaft reducer on it ? I would love to be able to just bump start it.
 
Slowbuild79 said:
How's it going ....would this work on the 79cc hf. I know the shaft size is different but could I just use a shaft reducer on it ? I would love to be able to just bump start it.
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Yes, you can use an off the shelf shaft reducer as long as your motor's shaft is 5/8" diameter, has a 5/16-24 tapped hole, and is at least 2" long.

i may start making these adapters and selling them on our website, but there are ton of places to buy them online!
 
Wanted to take the opportunity to showcase this beatiful build from Brian Stichter. The attention to detail and the level of creativity employed is simply outstanding. We have never seen a 3D Manual Clutch used by one of our customers in such a unique and innovative way!

This video shows him pedal starting the bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx81T7GPtOs

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Been trying to get one of these clutches on the road. Since I run the GX200 with the cylinder vertical I had to make a custom bracket to support the cable pull system. In my application the bracket also acts as a front engine mount that ties the engine to the frame. Here is how it's looking.

Manual Clutch by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

The clutch primary sprocket will then feed back to my reduction drive system at the bottom bracket.

Manual Clutch by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

The secondary drive chain will then feed back to a Strumey Archer S1C heavy duty coaster brake hub with prototype sprocket adapter. I will now have a free left side handlebar for the clutch lever.

Prototype by Pat Dolan, on Flickr
 
sportscarpat said:
Been trying to get one of these clutches on the road. Since I run the GX200 with the cylinder vertical I had to make a custom bracket to support the cable pull system. In my application the bracket also acts as a front engine mount that ties the engine to the frame. Here is how it's looking.

Manual Clutch by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

The clutch primary sprocket will then feed back to my reduction drive system at the bottom bracket.

Manual Clutch by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

The secondary drive chain will then feed back to a Strumey Archer S1C heavy duty coaster brake hub with prototype sprocket adapter. I will now have a free left side handlebar for the clutch lever.

Prototype by Pat Dolan, on Flickr
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Pat, very impressive work as always. Definitely looking forward to seeing this project completed and on the road.
 
Velodrome said:
!! SEXY !! dance1 Im assuming it would also work sitting on the bike cranking the pedals, old school styleie?
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I don't see why not. Just need a pretty hefty stand. I have some of my pretty stout rear wheel stationary stands, not an attached drop stand, so I will test it out when I get a chance. Of course I will video it.
 
Some very good information on here. I've been looking at this clutch for a little while and now I think I'm pretty well sold on it

Say I put this on my bike. I've got a slightly built 212. I will have to fab my own lever lock correct? Otherwise it will always be engaged?

I like the idea of this so I can rev the engine with out the rear wheel going 40mph
 
Amarion1 said:
Some very good information on here. I've been looking at this clutch for a little while and now I think I'm pretty well sold on it

Say I put this on my bike. I've got a slightly built 212. I will have to fab my own lever lock correct? Otherwise it will always be engaged?

I like the idea of this so I can rev the engine with out the rear wheel going 40mph
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Glad to hear you are considering the clutch. We can sell you a locking style lever with the disclaimer that the engagement might feel a bit sensitive for your liking. Send us an email through the website and we can set you up with that. If you plan to mostly pedal the bike to get going, the locking lever would be just fine. If you plan to do drag style launches at higher rpm, the magnum EZ pull lever would be the better option.
 
msrfan said:
I made this clutch housing for my modified belt drive 3D clutch and I'm ready to weld it in place.





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Wow! That is incredible work and some serious ingenuity. Doing a jackshaft like that will really help to keep the total width of your bike as narrow as possible. Your fab skills are excellent. Cant wait to hear how this one works out.
 
Danny and the 3D team did a great job modifying their Easy Pull clutch lever with a lockout. I thought a spring added to snap it back into place so you don't have to pull to engage and push to disengage would be a nice addition. So I made a spring from .039 music wire and installed it under their piece. I had to drill a 1/16'' hole next to the pivot bolt to accept the spring tang. Works great and while I was at it, I swapped the pivot bolt with a stainless button head and the lock nut with a locking Jam nut to slim it up a bit. With spring tension, I filed the catch a little deeper so it would stay in place better. Little details make a custom build that much better, and when their functional it's a real plus. I'll be installing it on my '54 Schwinn soon.









 
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I still wasn't satisfied, so I made a whole new lockout lever with a better spring return.








You can always improve on universal parts.
 
We're celebrating our 1st birthday...
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Enter the code THANKYOU20 at checkout for 20% off your entire clutch or clutch kit purchase(s).
Valid through 8/20/2017
 
I jumped on 3D's promotion and bought a clutch. My intention is to repower my Sportsman Flyer 80 to Sportsman Flyer 160. No matter what, I am happy to acquire a 3D clutch. Parade duty becomes doable.
 
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