Official 3D Motorsport Manual Clutch Thread

[Scott.D.Lang]

Hey Danny first off I have just gotten one of your 3D Clutches and I will say after first real look at it. All I have to say is wow if it performs as well as it looks I expect to be really amazed on my first ride.

Now for a question. By the looks of things I am going to have to build a jackshaft. So to the point 12t of clutch to 20t input to 10t output to 56t on a 26" wheel . Do you think the setup discribed would be hard on the clutch in stop and go riding?

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

Hey Danny first off I have just gotten one of your 3D Clutches and I will say after first real look at it. All I have to say is wow if it performs as well as it looks I expect to be really amazed on my first ride.

Now for a question. By the looks of things I am going to have to build a jackshaft. So to the point 12t of clutch to 20t input to 10t output to 56t on a 26" wheel . Do you think the setup discribed would be hard on the clutch in stop and go riding?

Thanks for the compliments on the clutch! What engine do you plan on running?

 

[Scott.D.Lang]

212 predator

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

212 predator

That's a good starting point for gear ratios if you have a 212 predator. I have run a lot taller and a lot shorter ratios (factoring in wheel diameter of course) both on my sprint kart and on my flat track mini bike with no problems.

 

[Scott.D.Lang]

It will be a 26" set of wheels

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

It will be a 26" set of wheels

Yeah, i factored in your wheel diameter when i looked at your gearing. At 5000 rpm you'll be doing low 40's. The predator and the clutch is plenty capable of that. Most of the mini bike racers are achieving low 60 mph in the 1/8 mile with this clutch on built predators.

 

[FFV8]

How far from production is the 1" clutch?

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

How far from production is the 1" clutch?

To be honest, the 1" development has stalled at the moment as we pursue some other projects. While we have gotten a fair amount of interest for the 1", its hard to quantify sales and to make the expensive leap into mass production. As we continue to grow and increase sales, we hope to be better positioned to pursue the 1" version in earnest.

 

[mogollonmonster]

How about a 5/8"? I've got an older 3hp Briggs with that size, just screaming to be wedged in a bike.

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

How about a 5/8"? I've got an older 3hp Briggs with that size, just screaming to be wedged in a bike.

We should probably start making some adapters for these so folks can use the 3/4 clutch on a 5/8 shaft.

 

[mogollonmonster]

I was really hoping you'd say that!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

For use of this manual clutch where there is no transmission with a neutral gear:

The discontinuance of the locking clutch handle means starting the engine while trying to hold in the clutch to release it from the engine at the same time? I guess putting up on center-stand and the rear wheel could spin, but that seems a little precarious trying to then pull in handle and come off stand an hop on bike.

How is starting the engine done?

 

[mogollonmonster]

For use of this manual clutch where there is no transmission with a neutral gear:

The discontinuance of the locking clutch handle means starting the engine while trying to hold in the clutch to release it from the engine at the same time? I guess putting up on center-stand and the rear wheel could spin, but that seems a little precarious trying to then pull in handle and come off stand an hop on bike.

How is starting the engine done?

Discontinue smiscontinue, ATV break leaver for manual rear brakes, most have a provision for locking them, for use as a parking brake. A good choice would be the Honda ATCs from the 80s, the cable ends are the same size as most bicycles (I forget the measurement) I need to source one myself, as they're MUCH higher quality than the kit leavers. They are also much easier to lock in the pulled position, which is an immense help when distance riding your ChinaGirl.

Most four strokes that this clutch would be used on already have a pull start. I would also assume pedaling to bump start a built predator 212, would mean dropping the clutch when you got to about 20mph. Heck, I've got to get my Dax motor to about 8-9 mph, or the tire just skids when I dump the clutch. I'm sure a member or two here has some experience with it, but I'd think the pull start would be the way to go anyway.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Now that you brought it up, bump starting is what is easy to do. Ages ago, one of my 4 stroke Briggs that was plain direct drive always, when warmed up started from a stop just pushing less than 2 foot forward.

The other thing is just keeping a few big rubber bands if you did not get some other locking device.

I know you inquired and they replied about the 5/8 to 3/4 adapter. I am using a clutch that is for 3/4 on a jackshaft that is 5/8. Parts I got from Grainger. They sell a bag of 3 sleeve. I had to add 1 and a half cut one to get the right length. The rectangular key stock I just bought a foot long piece and cut my own key.

The best thing I would have if I were to get one of these manual clutches is the ability to go slow parade speed not burning up a centrifugal clutch by having to pulse the throttle. Very low gearing waste gas and makes it noisy, so a manual clutch that is sprocket type for small engine looks like fun.

 

[Barnfresh]

I know you inquired and they replied about the 5/8 to 3/4 adapter. I am using a clutch that is for 3/4 on a jackshaft that is 5/8. Parts I got from Grainger. They sell a bag of 3 sleeve. I had to add 1 and a half cut one to get the right length. The rectangular key stock I just bought a foot long piece and cut my own key.

These shaft adaptors look like they would be long enough?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-x-3-4-x...ducer-Sleeve-Bushing-Sheave-Key-/251943004476

 

[curtisfox]

Always a hack saw, lol. They do sell shorter ones, got mine from fasten all and are about 1 1/2" long....................Curt

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

It is better to have a one piece sleeve, but in the case where I was using two part shim the keyway in the clutch was not full length anyway. I added the short extra for better support. Thanks for other vendors you mention. Maybe I'll check for future use, but hope I need not buy large quantity. I had to get a bag of 50 stainless steel circular cotter pins for a spare in case I drop or loose one. This when I only think 5 or less in a lifetime will I need. There is one place I been they just say here is a sample free of charge. It all evens out

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

For use of this manual clutch where there is no transmission with a neutral gear:

The discontinuance of the locking clutch handle means starting the engine while trying to hold in the clutch to release it from the engine at the same time? I guess putting up on center-stand and the rear wheel could spin, but that seems a little precarious trying to then pull in handle and come off stand an hop on bike.

How is starting the engine done?

As others have said. Most customers either bump start the bike or they put a velcro strap around the clutch lever for hands free starting.

Here is a video showing how easy bump starting is. Even easier if you have pedals of course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAo2jIOQV1Y


Also this link explains why the locking lever was discontinued: http://3dmotorsport.net/blogs/news/new-mini-bike-clutch-lever

 

[mogollonmonster]

Ok, I hear you. Those are good reasons to discontinue them. Will your lever fit the same cable ends as the ChinaGirls, i.e. standard bicycle cable ends? If so, I'll happily give up the locking feature, in exchange for not having to find another ATC lever.

 

[3dmotorsportLLC]

Ok, I hear you. Those are good reasons to discontinue them. Will your lever fit the same cable ends as the ChinaGirls, i.e. standard bicycle cable ends? If so, I'll happily give up the locking feature, in exchange for not having to find another ATC lever.

The 'clutch end' of the clutch cable has no ferrule or fitting attached to it. The bare cable is clamped to the actuator with a clamping screw. Therefore you can use any cable you want with this clutch as long as the cable extends beyond the cable housing by about 5-6 inches. Long story short, you dont need to use our cables and levers.

When customers want to use their own lever, i caution them to make sure that it has as high mechanical advanatage (long lever, short distance between pivot and cable barrel). Almost any dirtbike or motorcycle lever works well. This is important because it affects the sensitivity of the clutch and the friction zone. This is especially true for low power and tall gearing applications.