Here I go again,Briggs build

[scratchbuilder]

Oh dang, mockup is on hold....swap meet had a flat head Honda 100, 2.5
hp 100$$ I thinking it will fit right in where my lil hs142 sits...started right up the guy owns a shop got a rebuilt carb..maybe I can lose my lever belt clutch, and put cent..

 

[cannonball2]

That's a great engine! Its what my Lifan engines were cloned from. Should fit ok. I put one(Lifan) in a Cranbrook which is pretty tight.

 

[scratchbuilder]

Yeah...at this rate that motorcycle I'm saving for gonna take another 6mo. I cruise with lil142 at 25, which is fine I just wanna get there quicker! Imagine that!...yeah I've been checking measurements, ill just have to enlingate my mount holes, everything else is just a switcheroo. I just couldn't pass it up. I get her done ill post pics! And I gotta stamp my 142 numbers on, to be Legal....

 

[scratchbuilder]

I put the engine as is for now. Will test it today. The clutch is one by comet with fiber shoes, about 30 years old. Be nice if they still made fiber clutches. I don't get these metal shoes clutches.

 

[cannonball2]

Steel clutches are supposed to be much more tolerant of oil contamination.

Fit right in there. Though the B&S is a great engine the Honda is probably a bit better.
The Lifan clones make a good bit of torque and will rev reliably to the upper 4k range stock. The only issue was at extended runs in that range oil would flow from the breather to the air filter, I added a bit of green Scotch Brite behind the outlet and that took care of it.

 

[curtisfox]

KOOOOOOL i have the same motor, little older though, garage sale off a lawn edger.
Looking good,nice fit.......................Curt

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

That nice engine platform with that frame the way the bars are, have the engine fully level!

I can look up the engine for the Honda, but I was wondering if anyone knows if the throw of the crankshaft in that Honda is shorter in comparison to the 3hp Briggs 4 stroke I have, 80202 0430.

In the past, I had a Clinton engine and with the shorter throw of the crank and it resulted with same the same horsepower as other same displacement (used larger diameter piston) as another Briggs I owned, but had more torque (Brake Horsepower).

It sort of had your arm muscles work with the recoil more, but running it was one of the best engines for get up and go in slower trail riding.

MT

 

[scratchbuilder]

Well, thanks for your comments....the Honda is a bit wider, one of the measurements I didn't take...so for now lil 142hs is back on board. I couldn't use my belt primary lever clutch...I tried a centrifugal...but to much herky- jerky-shudder,shudder. And with a load on the Honda it wouldn't run good, I'm guessing carb trouble, the air screw made no difference, in or out. Sooooo, now what, I know tomorrow, gonna meet a guy who wants to buy the Briggs bike.

 

[Agreen]

What a fantastic build! Scratchbuilder, you're just like me when it comes to paying for things you can make cheaper. I had a crazy plan to build a fuel tank from 2 small empty propane heater tanks. The little fat green ones. I removed the valves and filled them with water to displace any residual propane, but somehow was still too chicken to cut in to them.

CB2,
I absolutely LOVE the soldered bean can gas tank! I will be doing one of those. And the SA 3 speed hub... brilliant.

 

[curtisfox]

Don't even need water to cut them with hack saw, no sparks LOL I have cut a few apart, used the bottom for guard on snowblower pulley i built.

Yes very clever build , really like what you are doing..............Curt

 

[scratchbuilder]

Yeah I've got those lil propane tanks too, like you I was too chicken to attempt it. And thx goes to SB & CB2 for their help! One thing though, no bean can. I was shopping for apple juice, and all I found was pineapple, so I thought, hey I get big can of beans....and the thought came to me...the beans wont pour out a small hole...w/o a struggle, so pineapple it was. I might need intervention if I'm ever gonna save for a motorcycle...i didn't need that Honda...but... um what will I do this time. I'm thinking another rear sus. Thx guys!!

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks Agreen for the kind comments!

Since the topic is can gas tanks heres one last one made from galvanized planters. Has a vintage look similar to early aviation tanks, though they had cones on the end for streamlining. Due to its shape it drains to the last drop.
I found that out the hard way! The Maytag was plenty heavy to pedal home.


http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=583130&postcount=67

The small fire extinguishers work too.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Well, thanks for your comments....the Honda is a bit wider, one of the measurements I didn't take...so for now lil 142hs is back on board. I couldn't use my belt primary lever clutch...I tried a centrifugal...but to much herky- jerky-shudder,shudder. And with a load on the Honda it wouldn't run good, I'm guessing carb trouble, the air screw made no difference, in or out.�� Sooooo, now what, I know tomorrow, gonna meet a guy who wants to buy the Briggs bike.

I had about 8:1 ratio with the Brigg 3hp originally on my bike, then also consider it is 26 inch wheel separately, it chugged my then new Max Torque Belt clutch. I eventually got it at 22:1 ratio with extra jackshafts and sprocket and now is good for slower but more torque trail riding. I think at 15:1 it could have been used on more level surface.

The original 8:1 was heating and rattling the clutch bad till it got up to speed, but very slowly.

Maybe the 2.5hp Honda has some other issue as you mention, but I figured I'd let you know about my clutch as it were with what is was doing. I'm not sure, but also maybe clutches get initial break in period and then grab better?

MT

 

[scratchbuilder]

Yeah MT, i can use the throttle to help the clutch not shudder, im also wondering about a break-in period. It seems strange to me that these clutch manufactures produce metal on metal shoes. It must be a cheap way compared to the tooling it would take for fibre shoes. I have a max T clutch with fibre shoes...its 30 years old, the shoes are chipped and one is broken.. I hear you saying even a belt clutch shudders..good to know..is it possible to have the belt loose enough to prevent shudder but still have straction??

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I'm not thinking that tension on the belt has anything to do with shuddering. What I think is if I went back to the ratio 8:1 with the gears and pulleys used on the jack shafts in my transmission, ran the bike again as I first did, it would still shudder and heat as it slips initially getting up to speed.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Slipping of the belts is another whole issue. Some like belts as they are quieter than a chain, but you don't have issues with slippage. A pulley less than 3 inches in diameter is usually asking for trouble with slipping.

The surface area of the small pulley does not grab enough and also bending a tight radius tends to chew and heat up the belt, that expands the belt and it slips even more. Splashed water when going through a puddle also till it drys on the belt and pulley is cause for slippage.

I use an adjustable diameter pulley to get tension set on a belt before pulling the rear hub back into the drop outs. That set one of the belts tension.

The other belt I put on with a back idler pulley fully recessed, then I snug it as much as I think won't collapse the large 10 inch spoked pulley. Note, I have that pulley under a strong metal cover, as it is otherwise a formidable deterrent to keeping your limbs if it were to fail.

Engine braking is quite a bit with my 22:1, the clutch shoes don't disengage until I slow enough near idle rpm. It is strange to think of the mass of the bike going down a hill spinning the engine. You can wait until you slow down enough then the shoes retract.

You can then be at idle and then start coasting down a hill faster and faster, then with a short burst of throttle and letting it go back to idle and the shoes of the clutch are again put the bike in engine brake mode.

MT

 

[curtisfox]

That can be fixed with belt guides, either pegs or plates to hold the belt to forum not engaged. If you look at any yard or lawn tractor equipment you will see them, and they do more than just hold the belt from flying off LOL.................Curt

 

[scratchbuilder]

The pic shows how I run my belt clutch. Because of the closeness of the two pulleys, I had to tension the belt pulling down, rather then pushing up. It grabs fine, under hard acceleration it will slip. But works great. On my Briggs blue bike, I swapped out the Js freewheel for a 18t gear for engine breaking, and it nice cruising around, but like you say, downhill breaking is for me not wanted. I didn't think it would work as good as it does. Rather than change it back, ill try cut the engine off on a long downhill.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Looks like in the picture the centrifugal automatic belt clutch is removed and a manual belt clutch with idler by cable actuation is shown.

If your going down hill with a manual clutch no need to cut the engine, just let the engine idle with manual clutch disengaged.

That in case you need a quick get away if a bob cat shows up, like I saw on a trail. We eyed one another, but I turned around about 50 feet away after it was just staying put.

MT

 

[scratchbuilder]

My bad, this pic is on my everyday rider, Del Rio'. The cc is on this thread. This set up work great. My engine pully is 1 1/2. I found one that is steel and 1 5/8..made a difference that is good. I tried 1 3/4, and that was too much. I've been using pot metal pulleys and the V gets worn wider. No more swap cooler pulleys!