I'd just get rid of the tensioner altogether. Shorten your chain, then use some spacers between the motor and rear motor mount to get the correct tension.
Install problems
- Thread starter Mopedamauter79
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Okay let's get on the same page here. Now I think you're talking about bolts loosening on your chain tensioner, not engine bolts/studs. Jason has a good suggestion and one that has seemed to work well for a lot of guys here. The only drawback to not using a tensioner is that you'll need to shorten or lengthen your chain if you ever feel the need to change your rear sprocket.
The spring tensioners is also a very good idea but is something you'll need to fabricate. I don't know of any that are a bolt on application. In addition I believe if you check you'll find that the bolt isn't actually loosening but that the tensioner bracket is bending and not staying tight around the chainstay
I solved the loosening tensioner problem in a way that some do not agree with but after 500 miles there have been no problems with my method.
I adjusted the tensioner position so that the slot would give me all the adjustment I needed then I drilled a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay. I used a 10-32 allen head bolt and nut and secured the tensioner bracket to the frame. It has not moved, stays where it's supposed to be and there is no evidence of any cracks or stress failure of the bike frame at the point where I drilled it. I agree with most guys that drilling holes in the frame is not good practice, especially engine mounting areas but a 3/16" hole in the chainstay will not compromise the frame integrity. The trick is to make sure that all your alignment issues are addressed before you drill. Redrilling or wallowing out the hole is not good. Get your tensioner wheel perfectly in line with the chain and sprockets then and only then drill the hole.
Hope this puts you in a better position to enjoy that bike. Keep us informed.
Tom
The spring tensioners is also a very good idea but is something you'll need to fabricate. I don't know of any that are a bolt on application. In addition I believe if you check you'll find that the bolt isn't actually loosening but that the tensioner bracket is bending and not staying tight around the chainstay
I solved the loosening tensioner problem in a way that some do not agree with but after 500 miles there have been no problems with my method.
I adjusted the tensioner position so that the slot would give me all the adjustment I needed then I drilled a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay. I used a 10-32 allen head bolt and nut and secured the tensioner bracket to the frame. It has not moved, stays where it's supposed to be and there is no evidence of any cracks or stress failure of the bike frame at the point where I drilled it. I agree with most guys that drilling holes in the frame is not good practice, especially engine mounting areas but a 3/16" hole in the chainstay will not compromise the frame integrity. The trick is to make sure that all your alignment issues are addressed before you drill. Redrilling or wallowing out the hole is not good. Get your tensioner wheel perfectly in line with the chain and sprockets then and only then drill the hole.
Hope this puts you in a better position to enjoy that bike. Keep us informed.
Tom
I would but there isn't much space between the chain and frame. I run the risk of chain rubbing against something.
Thats what happened to me when I got rid of my tensioner, a couple of big washers between the wheel and frame provided enough space for the chain to clear the frame.Seriously consider listening to some of the experienced guys here and get rid of the tensioner, they are more of a PITA than its worth.
Yeah, but some of us experienced guys like their tensioners...
Makes adjusting the chain easy, and some of them need a bit of adjustment.
The problem with the tensioner is usually from overtightening the chain and mis-alignment of the tensioner.
It is possible to run the stock tensioner (bearing type) for thousands of miles.
Makes adjusting the chain easy, and some of them need a bit of adjustment.The problem with the tensioner is usually from overtightening the chain and mis-alignment of the tensioner.
It is possible to run the stock tensioner (bearing type) for thousands of miles.
I was all up for removing it's just I wasn't sure if I had enough clearance to get away with it.
Hey I'm going to do that to mine as I think they will run better with those minor adjustments.
Thanks for the good ideas.
Normie
Thanks for the good ideas.
Normie
I'm still breaking mine in. It's doing well. It does not create any more vibration @ the higher speeds then it did lower. Right now in the cold temp with a larger wheel sprocket I have so far got it up to 40km/h. Before I believe it's top speed was 37-38. It's a real pain to get going when the engine has been in the cold. Where I leave it outside at work is all uphill so always have a tricky time getting it going. In the end with patience I always get it started.Not sure what the max temp these things will run for lows and high's.
Forgot to add in that for extra support for motor on frame I used a second large frame adaptor piece. I rotated it around so it was flush with bottom of frame and ran the bolt through it. This i believe would almost act like the clamps you get that the 2 bolts go through. If anyone knows what I'm talking about that is.
Forgot to add in that for extra support for motor on frame I used a second large frame adaptor piece. I rotated it around so it was flush with bottom of frame and ran the bolt through it. This i believe would almost act like the clamps you get that the 2 bolts go through. If anyone knows what I'm talking about that is.
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Arggg it's giving me problems already! She Refuses to start. It was working normally and then i had to stop at a light and then when I tried to get it going again it wouldn't start. So I'm like whatever I'm close to where I need to go. I leave it outside and do my thing and come out and I got it going. So I have to stop again at a light and i start it up again no problem. However I go inside the grocery store for maybe 20 min and try to get it going. Think it would start ? of course not. I tried everything. Wouldn't start. Almost got it a couple times for it to stall out and stop. I would bike up to 20km/h and have my the clutch level up and giving it gas and it would either go for a second or 2 or would try to start and sputter then just stall out again. I actually got it going for like 2-3 seconds before it stalled out and quit on me.. I don't get why it's being anal like this. It's burning the gas as you can smell it. The stupid thing just refuses to restart on me.
UPDATE: I took it out for a test spin. I wanted to see if it would start this time. I had left it in the house for a house to warm up. It wanted to start with the carb lever up but wouldn't unless i flicked it down and then it was sputter ting so i had to flick it up and down a few times and let it gain speed. I took it around the neighborhood and it ran pretty much normally. It likes to jerk abit back and forth. You can feel it doing it.. Not sure why it does that or why it wouldn't start that one time.
How about trying it with full choke, and once it fires, move it down to half chome until it warms up a little?
Sounds like you may be a bit lean....check again for air leaks, and if you don't find any, move the clip down a notch.
Sounds like you may be a bit lean....check again for air leaks, and if you don't find any, move the clip down a notch.
Mine won't either, I always just give 'em a little tickle and then pedal and use a little choke.
no not all. Unless of course your talking Mc. Hammer. Haha. I emailed Chris Hill from Thunder Bay and he said it could be as simple as the choke needs to be in a sweat spot for different outside temperatures. I lost my "tickler" I had to shove in a bolt to prevent air leaks and it's worked fine.
Is there a way to get stronger studs for the engine to be mounted with ? Perhaps a way to make them stronger ?
Yes you can buy higher grade studs. Or you can buy a complete hardware kit from SBP which includes upgraded studs.
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