Looking on Gasbike I saw this http://www.gasbike.net/grubee_skyhawk_gt5_66cc_80cc_slant_head_standard_finish_bike_motor_kit.html Anyone run one of these? suppose to have 4HP. For that price I'd try it, but wanted some reassurance that it's not to bad of junk, lol.
Raw racer engine
- Thread starter Eric2.0
- Start date
The head on it could be a potential problem. that head will not be good for cooling, especially in warm weather. If you get a fred, puch or center fire head it will be just fine. As far as the HP, its mostly bogus.
If I may recommend get one from these guys.
http://stores.ebay.com/bekits/
If I may recommend get one from these guys.
http://stores.ebay.com/bekits/
All it is is a basic kit with an RSE compression head which has been known for not cooling very well.
Go with the Dax! It know to be good. I have a Flying Horse and it has been an good motor. The Dax has better balance.
About the only thing in that kit worth anything is the chrome covers... if ya like chrome that is... You'll be a lot happier with the Dax engine that runs smooth and is set up to last, don't fall for the buzzwords like "race" High performance" "Type R" "Billet" etc, etc... they just put those in there to sucker newbs into thinking they got something special.
if you want a good "race" engine that actually makes more power than a stock engine and won't overheat or break after an hour or 2 of riding you'll want to start with a good engine. Dax sells good engines, Neil (MotorBicycleRacing in here) also sells good engines, then if you want performance right out of the box, Arrow Race Engines sells some really nice ones that are powerful but still have excellent street manners and so does Fred from crmachine.com.
The Dax engines are all assembled with the good bearings in them, they're better balanced than other engines, and the seller actually puts his hands on every engine a lot more than just pulling it off a pallet and sticking a shipping label on it then hoping you don't send it back after a week.
I'm not saying this to give you a hard time or because I hate gasbike etc, but because there is a difference in quality... Don't just take my word for this, but ask around and read up on other posts before spending your money. There's a lot of people in here who can save you from a lot of greif from getting a bad engine, not to mention there's a lot of experience in here on certain mods or parts so ask before buying if you want something that's gonna last or be quick, or both.
I agree with above and if you really want those chrome covers you can always buy them from the multitude of aftermarket parts are you get a good lasting engine. Not saying the flying horse won't last because the two running engines I have had were from ebay, but I have a dax lower I plan on building up and being a REAL dependable motor.
Same here... The Dax based engine I built is using a stock Dax bottom end with a highly modded cylinder and top end... I run mine at 10,000 rpm and above every morning without a single problem and next to zero vibration.
Dax engine quality and Dax customer service.
Unequaled in my experience compared to other engines I have and other vendors I've dealt with.
There are other good engines out there and there are other good vendors, but I like to stick to what has proven to be a reliable engine and a reliable seller who actually answers his own phone and will treat you like a friend and talk to you as long as you need to for info releated to the engine and he goes out of his way to be as much help as he can be.
I see a lot of value in a vendor who takes care of his customers and makes a genuine effort to offer a better than average product as far as the china girl engines are concerned.
We say all the time that these engines are a crap shoot to a big degree, they are and fortunately have actually become a bit of a lesser crap shoot from a few vendors since quality has improved with several of them, dax has always been a bit ahead of the curve and done a good job of giving us a better quality choice and then stood behind what he sells the best he can, others offer warranty on their engines which is good as long as they honor it, and from what I have read several times on here some do not want to honor the warranty or they're simply impossible to contact, what good is all that mess.
thatsdax.com sells kits for a bit of a premium price yes, but in my opinion you can buy with the confidence that you'll get a good engine and you'll have service after the sale if you need it.
Unequaled in my experience compared to other engines I have and other vendors I've dealt with.
There are other good engines out there and there are other good vendors, but I like to stick to what has proven to be a reliable engine and a reliable seller who actually answers his own phone and will treat you like a friend and talk to you as long as you need to for info releated to the engine and he goes out of his way to be as much help as he can be.
I see a lot of value in a vendor who takes care of his customers and makes a genuine effort to offer a better than average product as far as the china girl engines are concerned.
We say all the time that these engines are a crap shoot to a big degree, they are and fortunately have actually become a bit of a lesser crap shoot from a few vendors since quality has improved with several of them, dax has always been a bit ahead of the curve and done a good job of giving us a better quality choice and then stood behind what he sells the best he can, others offer warranty on their engines which is good as long as they honor it, and from what I have read several times on here some do not want to honor the warranty or they're simply impossible to contact, what good is all that mess.
thatsdax.com sells kits for a bit of a premium price yes, but in my opinion you can buy with the confidence that you'll get a good engine and you'll have service after the sale if you need it.
Nah.... I'll get this shorty intake, Song top engine running and see how I like actually riding these things. After a 1,000 miles or so(If I make it) I'll go ahead and get me a full-boogy Dax motor. For now it's the Song-Top for me... Gotta start someplace.
Ive heard nothing but good so far about those engines from song-top so you should be just fine as long as you put it all together right, get it tuned correctly etc...
I plan to get one of the song-top kits myself, so I'll be curious to hear how your turns out.
The dax engines are 38mm stroke engines now, just a version of the GT5 Skyhawk engines actually, I only have one of those type engines currently on a bike and I'm not 100% sold on it yet as far as performance compared to the 40mm stroke engines, I've yet to get one of the newer dax engines built to see how I like the 38mm stroke version, I have several of the original 40mm stroke engines that I really like, i'm hoping I can get the 38mm stroke engines to run as well....fingers crossed and knocking on wood...!!!
I will say I dont like the jug that has ben showing up with the Gt5 type engines lately, I have three of them now and the ports in them are tiny, no way the engine can be a good higher rpm performer with all the ports being so small, that is one thing I'm having a big problem with, and I recommend buying the dax lowers and then getting a jug from a seller that has larger ports and just building the engine up from there, thats what I will be doing with both of the 38mm stroke dax lowers I have.
Exactly what he said...
most the people who sell these couldn't even tell you the bore and stroke of the engine let alone help you if you run into assembly problems, and they got every way in the book to snake their way out of honoring a warranty return... if they even answer your email when something goes south.
You might get lucky with the song top engine, but the l;ast engine I got was very similar to the ones they sell and it lasted me a grand total of about 90 minutes before I found a critical problem that would have blew that engine if I tried to keep it running.
Since the jug and top end were ok I used these pieces on a dax bottom end and then decided not to even mess with trying to get that bottom end in working order sice it would take Lots of time and end up costing more than a new bottom end to fix.
Well piss, yo usaid those are nice engines on th other thread, he. Meh I don't care, 138 bucks shipped I'll get it running and see what happens. If it blows all to **** in 50 miles, I'll get a Dax and be done with it.
It seems most of these Chinese motors are the same with just a brand name sticker slapped on the round cover. I had a "rand Name" engine two years ago and it sucked ass...Two different carbs, new engine bolts, studs and and nuts, tightened correctly, head and jug top checked for level with a piece of glass, made my own gaskets, RTV sealant, compression check, ect ect.....About 40 miles of trying to pedal start the damn thing for nothing. I never even got a sputter....not even close!
pfffttt brand name and that experience turned me off of these bikes for over a year until I saw a few of them running in town a few months ago.
Some tell me the Song Top engines they have had good luck, so F-it.... It'll probably actually start and even if it doesn't go anyplace, as long as it starts and idles....I'll be happy and more enthused to go deeper into it.
At 138.0o it won't be tragic if it blows, but I'd sure like to go a few miles before it does!
Well piss, yo usaid those are nice engines on th other thread, he. Meh I don't care, 138 bucks shipped I'll get it running and see what happens. If it blows all to **** in 50 miles, I'll get a Dax and be done with it.
It seems most of these Chinese motors are the same with just a brand name sticker slapped on the round cover. I had a "rand Name" engine two years ago and it sucked ass...Two different carbs, new engine bolts, studs and and nuts, tightened correctly, head and jug top checked for level with a piece of glass, made my own gaskets, RTV sealant, compression check, ect ect.....About 40 miles of trying to pedal start the damn thing for nothing. I never even got a sputter....not even close!
pfffttt brand name and that experience turned me off of these bikes for over a year until I saw a few of them running in town a few months ago.
Some tell me the Song Top engines they have had good luck, so F-it.... It'll probably actually start and even if it doesn't go anyplace, as long as it starts and idles....I'll be happy and more enthused to go deeper into it.
At 138.0o it won't be tragic if it blows, but I'd sure like to go a few miles before it does!
Dave wasnt downing the song-top engines actually, he just got a simular type that uses the shorty intake that had a bad crank.
Boxcar has a couple of them from song-top specificallyjust like what you will likely get from them and his have been well put together and good running engines.
Im gonna say you'll likely get a good engi e that will do just fine for you if you set it up right.
I can't wait for it to get here. Already mounted the 44 tooth gear out back from my old project, lol.
Depending on how early the engine arrives at my door, I plan on mounting it up and trying to get it stared the same day. No more fartin around! I want to ride one of these things badly!
It's going directly onto the bike as is and I'm not touching the bike until it runs and I actually went a mile or two on it, Then it's strip time and pimp my ride.
Depending on how early the engine arrives at my door, I plan on mounting it up and trying to get it stared the same day. No more fartin around! I want to ride one of these things badly!
It's going directly onto the bike as is and I'm not touching the bike until it runs and I actually went a mile or two on it, Then it's strip time and pimp my ride.
After I get it running and broke in I'll add an expansion chamber, port things up and add a better carb/cleaner if needed for a few more RPM as well as lower the gear out back for a bit more top speed... My goal is an easy 25 to 30MPH no faster.... That is way fast for a Huffy from Kmart and plenty of speed to actually use as transportation. If I want to go faster I'll get a Vespa or small motorcycle.
25-30mph is normally easy with the 44T sprocket once the carb is jetted down a little which is needed on most of them, if that is the speed you plan to be happy with 6ou wont need to do much as far as performance oriented mods, inorder for any of these engines to be as reliable as they can be there are a few things that need to be done when they're put on a bike from the beginning, I assume you've read enough on here to know what those things are so even if the engine itself is good you wont have issues with some of the smaller things that can plague the build if not done right.
My advice is get it mounted securely, don't over tighten the studs and nuts on mounts, use loctite blue on everything, make sure chain is aligned correctly etc.
My advice is dont get in to big a hurry and cut corners or it will bite you in the butt and you'll be right back to frustration and still be without a good running bike.
If you paid attention to my posts, you would have seen I'm not downing the Song top engines, they do have the better top ends as well as the better shorty intake. The one I got had a really bad bottom end tho so it doesn't matter how good the top end is if the crank and bottom half is no good. this crank had over 1/8" of side to side play after I pulled the side covers for a quick inspection after running it for just over an hour. I'm using that jug, piston, and intake on my Dax bottom end and I'm using a stock NT carb with the 44 tooth rear sprocket. My bike has zero vibration with this setup and a top speed of 42mph and I ride it every morning before I open up my shop full throttle both ways.Well piss, yo usaid those are nice engines on th other thread, he. Meh I don't care, 138 bucks shipped I'll get it running and see what happens. If it blows all to **** in 50 miles, I'll get a Dax and be done with it.
It seems most of these Chinese motors are the same with just a brand name sticker slapped on the round cover. I had a "rand Name" engine two years ago and it sucked ass...Two different carbs, new engine bolts, studs and and nuts, tightened correctly, head and jug top checked for level with a piece of glass, made my own gaskets, RTV sealant, compression check, ect ect.....About 40 miles of trying to pedal start the damn thing for nothing. I never even got a sputter....not even close!
pfffttt brand name and that experience turned me off of these bikes for over a year until I saw a few of them running in town a few months ago.
Some tell me the Song Top engines they have had good luck, so F-it.... It'll probably actually start and even if it doesn't go anyplace, as long as it starts and idles....I'll be happy and more enthused to go deeper into it.
At 138.0o it won't be tragic if it blows, but I'd sure like to go a few miles before it does!
the best it did with the original bottom end was about 25mph and it shook wildly once it got close to top speed, that's part of the reason I decided not to even worry about fixing that crank. The rest of that bottom end was just as bad... both clutch bearings were already rough with just an hour or so runtime on them and the crank bearings were the same.
99% of the sellers of these things won't help you at all when things go wrong nor will they answer your emails if you run into problems mounting them, they probably couldn't even tell you the bore and stroke of the engines because all they do is buy from the cheapest seller in China and put a shipping label on the box and send it out without ever seeing what's inside the box.
There are only a very few sellers who open these boxes up and inspect each engine before it goes out, and even fewer that have them built to a certain standard, then check everything before it ships out and are willing to help you every step of the way once it's in your hands.
You can take or leave any advise you get in here, that's up to you, I get no benefit from saying who has the good stuff and who doesn't and all I'm doing is looking out for the newbs who don't know the difference or that there is even a difference. there really aren't any brand names other than whether or not a seller wants to put one on, but there are sellers who do a little more than take a box off a pallet, put a shipping label on that box, and could care less if it works or not once they get that positive feedback because most people leae feedback the second the box arrives anyway...
You shouldn't have any trouble with the engine you ordered and should easily hit the speeds you're looking for without any mods. Just take your time on the installation and don't get in a hurry with anything, get it running and broken in then tune the carb by jetting it down until the 4 stroking stops. Even the stock pipe can perform if you open up the outlet either by drilling more holes in the end cap or by cutting off the undersized outlet off and welding in a larger one. An expansion chamber pipe will get you up into the 40mph range for speed if you get the right one, or really good acceleration if you go bigger with the rear sprocket to keep the max speed closer to the 30mph range.
For porting, this is a huge topic area, but just cleaning up the flash around the port openings and smoothing out the casting ridge in the transfers will make the top end last as well as make your engine run stronger and smoother. Clean up any overlapping nikasil plating before you run it, this is where most engines fail early on because this overlapping plating can lead to it flaking or peeling off.
If you want more power after it's broken in, just make your intake and exhaust ports 1mm wider on each side, then bore out that shorty intake to match the carb. You can pamp the pistons for more transfer and exhaust duration which will give you more rpm and top end power rather easily, but anything further than this, be sure to read up on since you can go too far and move the power up higher than the engine can rev to.
For porting, this is a huge topic area, but just cleaning up the flash around the port openings and smoothing out the casting ridge in the transfers will make the top end last as well as make your engine run stronger and smoother. Clean up any overlapping nikasil plating before you run it, this is where most engines fail early on because this overlapping plating can lead to it flaking or peeling off.
If you want more power after it's broken in, just make your intake and exhaust ports 1mm wider on each side, then bore out that shorty intake to match the carb. You can pamp the pistons for more transfer and exhaust duration which will give you more rpm and top end power rather easily, but anything further than this, be sure to read up on since you can go too far and move the power up higher than the engine can rev to.