dual disc front wheel

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graydog8josh

Member
ive found on choppersus.com where you can get right hand left hand disc brake calipers and ive found they also sell dual front disc mounts but i can't seem to find it in stock and where i could completely have my triple tree fork with dual front discs.
Can anyone help me source the parts for a dual front disc set up? I want to d go all out and have a balanced but extreme stopping ability. and i dont want to just run the monster disc.
 
What are you looking for? The hub to hold both rotors? The adapter bracket to hold both calipers?
 
Dang I would have jumped on that ,but at 6 foot tall I need a longer travel ''full sus fork'' Shame Marzocchi don't have a duel disk?
 
Just out of curiosity why do you want dual front discs on an MB?

It must for the look because with one 210mm disc rotor is overkill at it is, and lock your front wheel in a heartbeat.
 
i have a 160 and its not locking my wheel at all. I went to the bike shop and got on one of those brand new mtbs with hydraulic disk brakes and 180? rotors and they didnt lock the wheel i tried several bikes and they didnt lock, and none of those bikes have motors on them. so it hasnt been my experience . maybe you're smaller than me or your bike is lighter but im not getting the back wheel lifting off the ground when i squeeze hard at speed so im not satisfied. Hardly overkill and i think it will more evenly distribute the braking load.
 
I agree with ya Gray. I mean if a fellow only wanted to go 10 mph and did not weigh anything wet? lol

I will not use anything less than a 203mm. This is on my hot rod bike. When I was tuning the clutches and studying it. ''R&D style'' Could burn through a set of front brake shoes in three weeks. When I simply used the bike some what normal lol. I could get a month and a half. This is on my hotrod bike of course.

To tell you the truth tho I don't care if its only a peddle bike. I want brakes that are more than enough! Nothing less than a 203mm rotor here.
 
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i ordered a dual disc wheel but im going to see if running the 255 monster disc will brake enough while im trying ot figure out the right hand caliper.
 
graydog, if you're looking for a mirrored right brake caliper, try recumbent bike parts suppliers as they're somewhat common for that application... they are usually inordinately expensive however as they're "for" recumbents, which tend to suffer a fashionable price mark up even for the exact same cross-over components.

I'd suggest searching a recumbent supplier & gleaning the actual manufacturer's part number for the righty caliper you'd like, then broadening the search with just the part number, might save a couple few pennies by avoiding the specialized recumbent retailers.

graydog8josh said:
ive been thinking run the mount backwards
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You can do that ofc, the catch is that your cable will exit the opposite side & it'll be visually asymmetrical... this isn't usually a big deal with trikes so that's how I made mine, while it works jus' fine it will look a little odd, dunno if that's a concern or not.

Here's my front spindles with the brake mount mock-up & about to be welded, to show the differences in caliper mount when ya flip a left to a right but for dual disc/one wheel like yours - I'd spend the difference for a righty ;)

 
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...oh right, as a BTW for those confused regarding the purpose of dual discs vs a bigger rotor (single wheel) - while increasing a rotor's diameter improves stopping power by multiplying the braking force via increased leverage (straight line distance frm pad to hub), dual disc/dual calipers double the amount of braking surface areas & also provides a serious reduction in both wear & heat as a result.
 
thanks barely! magura apparently sells right hand disc brakes looking for a source for getting these brakes. and thanks for explaining the benefits. When i was on formula our brakes were so strong and i want that almost unsettling braking power on my bike.
 
No worries graydog & grats, I'm a big fan of discs :D

Speakin' of, maybe I could mention another common brake misconception - & that's the ability to "lock your front wheel" (or skid any wheel w/ease) being not an example of good braking capability. It is actually & somewhat surprisingly a symptom of a problem, it's actually a bad thing & isn't entirely dependent on your braking system as it's also a traction consideration (surface vs tire compound & type, tread & contact patch vs weight).

Not only does skidding increase stop distances & times, lock-ups can also be a consequence of a mismatched braking system, fouled, worn and/or poor quality pads & even warped rotors.

A "perfect" braking system would offer a wide range of pressure application up to but just short of a full lock-up, which is interestingly one of the reasons discs started becoming common on car's front wheels in the early seventies, automotive drums being notoriously "grabby" in the application. This is also why later "anti-lock" brake systems started becoming pretty much standard as well.

Unfortunately, such perfection is highly unlikely with bicycle brakes but the point being it's the range of pressure application & the stopping distance that counts, not the ease in which it can lock or skid - which is best case a traction control example, while related it's not the same.

The only benefit to being able to quickly & easily lock a wheel is for stunting, which obv has very little to do with safety lol
 
BarelyAWake said:
No worries graydog & grats, I'm a big fan of discs :D

Unfortunately, such perfection is highly unlikely with bicycle brakes but the point being it's the range of pressure application & the stopping distance that counts, not the ease in which it can lock or skid - which is best case a traction control example, while related it's not the same.

The only benefit to being able to quickly & easily lock a wheel is for stunting, which obv has very little to do with safety lol
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(Smiles) I certainly agree locking your front wheel when riding is not a good thing hehe ;-}
And sure, the range of grip force is important for control. A good rotor size and pads however seem to work well without having to double up.

Then again I have been playing with some pretty impressive disc brakes lately...

I suggest you try the biggest rotor conversion kit you can get, it's the rotoe and a lift spacer for the caliper.

What are you using on the back?
 
I come from a lengthy sportbike/sport-touring background where stopping power is of paramount importance. I can fully identify with the need for good brakes that'll stop on a dime, and give you back five cents change in return. Front brakes on a bike such as this, are 80% or better of your stopping power.

I installed the designer's monster disc/caliper adapter kit this past weekend - so far only cable-actuated only. Static testing seems to indicate that it's going to fit the bill. Pair it up with a hydraulic master cylinder/caliper - i can't see it stopping any faster, unless you throw out a boat-anchor .. literally.

20141226_170104.jpg
 
HackD said:
I installed the designer's monster disc/caliper adapter kit this past weekend - so far only cable-actuated only.
i can't see it stopping any faster, unless you throw out a boat-anchor .. literally.

20141226_170104.jpg
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Sweet.
I think it's more 70/30 or even 60/40 on an MB but whatever.

The larger discs and calipers the customer sent me to built the Surly are hydraulic at the oversized dual pad caliper but cable accurate so I could use a dual pull brake lever.

2_Surley2SmuleL-2048.jpg


One brake lever (the SBP self-adjuster) and that thing stops on a nickel.

The dual disc electric Fat Tire I have here is 1 lever 2 disc as well but all cable and pitifully small discs, gonna throw a big disc on front and that ought to do it as well because n omatter how ya spin it, a disc on back helps.

Again, what do you have on the back Hack?
Ohh, and why is the disc you show mounted on your bike a different color bike?
 
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