My first race bike build!!!
- Thread starter deonsrace
- Start date
For the chain issue... Have you tried dishing your wheel by offsetting the spokes to "pull" the hub off center? This is commonly done by using longer spokes on one side than the other to set the hub off center, which will give you more clearance for your chain if you set it up so the sprocket is further out on that side. Other than that, you could add spacers under your sprocket and use longer bolts to "push" your sprocket further outboard to allow for more tire clearance.
Somewhere there is a balancing point where the chain may either hit the tire or it'll hit the frame and in a case like this, the only solution short of cutting out the frame tube and welding in one that's offset would be to use a narrower tire.
Easiest solution would be to put spacers between the sprocket and hub and use longer bolts to compensate for the spacers, then the next hardest solution would be to re lace the wheel with longer spokes on the sprocket side to offset the hub enough to clear the chain.
Somewhere there is a balancing point where the chain may either hit the tire or it'll hit the frame and in a case like this, the only solution short of cutting out the frame tube and welding in one that's offset would be to use a narrower tire.
Easiest solution would be to put spacers between the sprocket and hub and use longer bolts to compensate for the spacers, then the next hardest solution would be to re lace the wheel with longer spokes on the sprocket side to offset the hub enough to clear the chain.
Monark forks are very well built from what I've heard, they should hold up to your bike and riding style, if you need a stronger fork, downhill trippletree type forks are the toughest, but may require some modifications to your front rim and/ or your steering head on the frame. Look up tripple crown forks on amazon, those are rather tough and priced decently. I got an old Noleen fork on mine now with a modified go kart shock and that setup seems to be quite bulletproof, the only catch to the Noleen / Girvin forks is that they quit building them in the mid 90's so parts can be scarce, so if you decide to get the same fork I got, be sure to get one that's already in really good condition.
Ok I got my new 26" 12G rim today added a extra nut to the axle and ended up with better clearance with the new rim. My hydraulic brake come in yesterday thst thing is huge. Only need my forks to come in now they will be here on Saturday. Just need to buy a 203mm rotor for my brake on the front rim.
Cant wait to get back on the road.
Cant wait to get back on the road.
Those will work, are they RST brand? I have been through a lot of forks and picky about them. I have the mega monarks and added a shock to it, one of the best forks yet. Took some work to make it solid. Picture of same fork with 203mm disk and a heavy bike, bent that chit.
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better front than back always. the back is good to keep the front from going over though. no control with a locked up back
Fully agreed... the front brake has the best stopping power as well as keeping it under control during a hard stop, the rear brake can only give about 30% of the stopping power since it will lock up the back tire too easily. If you're going to run hydraulic brakes, this does work best and you could link the front brakes to the rear brake by adding in a proportioning valve that limits the amount of pressure to the rear brake, even tho most will prefer independant braking because you can hit the fronts fairly hard and keep in control then feather the rears to add to the stopping power, but with a proportioning valve, you can adjust how much or little the rear brakes do to prevent lockups but still give excellent stopping power. Probably setting up the valve for 75% of the braking to the front and the other 25% to the rear would be a safe starting point then fine tune from there.