Looking for 24x1.75/2.125 coaster brake wheel with 12G spokes

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greaser_monkey_87

New Member
I have found one, but it is single walled steel and its $45. If anyone knows where to find a double walled alloy wheel for that price, or a single walled steel rim for a better price, i would really like to know. Thanks in advance.
 
greaser_monkey_87 said:
Well, niagara cycles has a better price....LOL!!!
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Yeah hisky has some alright stuff but they are a bit high on some of it, I have two sets of the wheelmaster steel wheels with Shimano hubs for the rear and they are pretty good wheels, but the biggest complaint I have with most of the steel wheels now days is that the chrome on them is so thin that even sitting inside for a while they will get rust spots on them, the last set I bought I cleaned well with brake parts cleaner and then sprayed about 3 coats of Valspar clear enamel on them to seal out moister, that should make themhold up and not rust for a long time hopefully, I like the good aluminum wheels with heavy spokes also, I dont have any but I may get a set in the future, I think pirate cycles used to have them but they dont list them anymore on their site.

Map
 
In the future, you can get rust off chrome with aluminum foil. I've done it, and it works well. I looked through husky's page several times and never found the 24" with 12g spokes. Guess I didn't look hard enough. I will probably go with the niagara wheel, it's a wheelmaster wheel. I'll be converting the coaster hub to freewheel and adding an odyssey 1999 bmx brake from danscomp with Kool stop pads and a lever with as long of a pull as I can get. The front brake is going to be a motorcycle drum laced into a 24" wheel.
 
greaser_monkey_87 said:
In the future, you can get rust off chrome with aluminum foil. I've done it, and it works well. I looked through husky's page several times and never found the 24" with 12g spokes. Guess I didn't look hard enough. I will probably go with the niagara wheel, it's a wheelmaster wheel. I'll be converting the coaster hub to freewheel and adding an odyssey 1999 bmx brake from danscomp with Kool stop pads and a lever with as long of a pull as I can get. The front brake is going to be a motorcycle drum laced into a 24" wheel.
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Yeah thats a good way to remove rust, it wont scratch the chrome and make it rust even worse later like using steel wool does.

Sounds like you'll definitely have some good brakes for sure, I like Shimano coaster hub brakes and some good V Brakes bit what you have planned will be an very good front brake, I have had good service from a Shimano coaster brake and a good V brake up front on my bik s that are single speed, but at some point I'd like to have a good wheel with a drum on the front of a couple of my bikes that way I can use whatever forks I want basically.

I have a couple other coaster wheels that have held up real good so far, one being a huffy hub which gets all kinds of negative feedback on here most of the time, the secret is good lubrication and correctly tensioned bearings, in my opinion the ywo most important things for giving the hubs a long dependable life span, the shimano hubs seem to come from the factory with high quality grease in them and plenty of it, the other not so much.

Map
 
My current wheel had a shimano coaster, and the shoes grabbed so hard it would skid the back tire and I would fishtail, even when not pushing very hard. I am fairly certain I had the bearings adjusted properly, I do have experience with servicing coaster hubs and I use a cone wrench. I chalked it up to the shimano shoes having superior engineering. So I decided to convert the hub to freewheel, and ultimately found that the wheel rolls much smoother now, and there is also the added benefit of being able to reposition my feet without having to roll the bike forward at a stop. This frame doesn't have a spot for rear rim brakes, but the frame I'm switching to does.
 
greaser_monkey_87 said:
My current wheel had a shimano coaster, and the shoes grabbed so hard it would skid the back tire and I would fishtail, even when not pushing very hard. I am fairly certain I had the bearings adjusted properly, I do have experience with servicing coaster hubs and I use a cone wrench. I chalked it up to the shimano shoes having superior engineering. So I decided to convert the hub to freewheel, and ultimately found that the wheel rolls much smoother now, and there is also the added benefit of being able to reposition my feet without having to roll the bike forward at a stop. This frame doesn't have a spot for rear rim brakes, but the frame I'm switching to does.
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Im thinking about changing the old huffy wheel into a freewheel set up myself, the brakes work good but not as good as the Shimano hubs for sure, I already have caliper rear rim brakes on the huffy so converting it to a freewheel would work great on it, I like going with a 36T chainring on the cranks also, makes an excellent gear ratio for getting a quick start off before releasing the clutch.

I've never converted a coaster hub to a freewheel yet but I've seen videos posted on youtube that walk the process through pretty easy looks like.

Map
 
Yeah, it's super simple. Disassemble the hub, toss the brake shoes, remove the brake clutch and take out the spring/washer dealie inside it, then take 3 washers the approximate inside diameter of the axle and outer diameter of the brake clutch, slide them on then slide the brake clutch back on, lube up your bearings, reassemble and adjust as normal and voila! You've got a silent freewheel. I thought about buying a bmx freewheel, but have found no bmx wheels with 12g spokes, and also the hub is a different diameter so my adapter would no longer work. You also still have to attach the brake arm to the frame when you convert to freewheel. I'm also running a 36t chainring, but I want a bigger cog for the rear wheel. Currently running 18t, would like to go up to 21t or 22t if I can find them. Pedaling is a little better, but you're talking a 275# rider on a 100# bike, so the pedal gearing needs to be a bit lower yet. It's still much better than it was with a 44t chainring though.
 
greaser_monkey_87 said:
Yeah, it's super simple. Disassemble the hub, toss the brake shoes, remove the brake clutch and take out the spring/washer dealie inside it, then take 3 washers the approximate inside diameter of the axle and outer diameter of the brake clutch, slide them on then slide the brake clutch back on, lube up your bearings, reassemble and adjust as normal and voila! You've got a silent freewheel. I thought about buying a bmx freewheel, but have found no bmx wheels with 12g spokes, and also the hub is a different diameter so my adapter would no longer work. You also still have to attach the brake arm to the frame when you convert to freewheel. I'm also running a 36t chainring, but I want a bigger cog for the rear wheel. Currently running 18t, would like to go up to 21t or 22t if I can find them. Pedaling is a little better, but you're talking a 275# rider on a 100# bike, so the pedal gearing needs to be a bit lower yet. It's still much better than it was with a 44t chainring though.
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The rear cog for the shimano nexus hub will work fine on a coaster hub and they are 21-23T I have one one my bike that has 24" wheels and I have a 40T chain ring onthe cranks so its peddles real nice, im at work tonight but when I get off in the morning and on my computer instead of this "smart phone" I will pm you a link or just post it here for the larger sprocket, Im pretty sure I have it saved on my computer.

Thanks for the info on converting the hub also....

Map
 
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