going case inducted!!!
- Thread starter mech_engineer
- Start date
If you stay in these parameter the engine will work. Make the combination ( tran,exh,int) for desired power band.
I'd love to see a chinadoll converted to case induction.
While I am bewildered by your math, I'd love to see you succeed with such an interesting project!
While I am bewildered by your math, I'd love to see you succeed with such an interesting project!
2 reed cages from a banshee at $20 ebay some aluminum and welding..., have a dellorto 21mm on my way, all components for the mod cdi and the coil @ home and the engine got the duration and port area from the math. I have almost doble the power by change ports and duration only.
Btw: no where in the internet is port and duration explained like this because all equations are for design new engines, the way i use them is for tuning a engine not for desing one thats why no one understand the port timing from the books
Btw: no where in the internet is port and duration explained like this because all equations are for design new engines, the way i use them is for tuning a engine not for desing one thats why no one understand the port timing from the books
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I will have a go at your math,
Thank you for this, it is a lot easier once someone has already done it for you!
I too am interested in case induction, and have a welder who say's he can do what I need to the cases.
I was working on my own reed cage, but interested in $20 Banshee option.
It's nice to see people sharing, good on you.
Thank you for this, it is a lot easier once someone has already done it for you!
I too am interested in case induction, and have a welder who say's he can do what I need to the cases.
I was working on my own reed cage, but interested in $20 Banshee option.
It's nice to see people sharing, good on you.
Arrow Motorized Cycles builds 9.5 HP 'bolt on' case inducted engines... http://www.arrowmotorizedcycles.com/motorized-bicycle-engines.html
Yes it's very expensive, but you can at least see how he simply machined the case & bolted on a reed, instead of welding to the case.
Can't get a real good look from the add, I suppose it's possible, My thought was that the cases are a bit thin there to hold a stud, and simply to add a little 'meat' to the cases to give a good anchor point as well as a wider flat surface between the two case bolts. My mate wasn't going to charge much, and I have an old set of cases for him to practice on that have already been welded where a front mounting stud attaches.
The cases still work, but are just a little ugly, if he can do what I want to them, I'll give him a better set to do as well.
The cases still work, but are just a little ugly, if he can do what I want to them, I'll give him a better set to do as well.
When you do the numbers there no space or piston mod that you can do to get the correct flow of air and gas inside the case. The best way is use reed valve and make a opening in the case. Then you can use the equations to get the area needed for induction at a specific duration or you can find the duration that you need for the area you got.
What type of modifications would be needed to go case induction? Besides the obvious of welding the reed box below the cylinder at the flat spot near the rear of the cylinder base. Would you be able to keep the cylinder stock? Cut the piston skirt on the intake side? Cut the cylinder wall like Venice did? I order a reed valve kit from arrow as well as two ported cylinders in addition I order another reed valve kit that comes with the cylinder port for the reed valves and has a third transfer port and would like to give this case induction a try.
As far as welding the aluminum goes, Muggywelding make a product called super alloy 1 that welds at low heat (350 deg) and can hold upto 20000 psi. You don't need any special type of equipment, in fact, all you need is their rods and flux and a regular propane torch. I'll find the link and post.
As far as welding the aluminum goes, Muggywelding make a product called super alloy 1 that welds at low heat (350 deg) and can hold upto 20000 psi. You don't need any special type of equipment, in fact, all you need is their rods and flux and a regular propane torch. I'll find the link and post.
Here is the link. http://muggyweld.com/index.php?route=common/home
Looks like the answer to welding aluminum.
Looks like the answer to welding aluminum.
Some where I have some alloy 'soldering sticks', I've been meaning to give this a try also.
I believe, plugging the intake port, and giving the barrel a third transfer port is the go.
Mech Engineer sounds like he knows what he's talking about, I'm taking his lead.
I believe, plugging the intake port, and giving the barrel a third transfer port is the go.
Mech Engineer sounds like he knows what he's talking about, I'm taking his lead.
I too will be following M.E.'s lead. I'll be following this post with great interest. In referencing Muggyweld, it would be super alloy 5 that welds aluminum. My bad, super alloy 1 is just as you stated for Soldering. I would think that this could be a straight forward mod, drill and tap hole for reed box, cut open hole on flat spot near base of cylinder, mount reed valve box, plug existing intake, cut cylinder wall for third transfer port, button it all up and then go baby go. Oh, if only it was that easy. I would think that the weak link to this would be the thickness of the case supporting the weight of the reed valve kit and the carb, and if we were to weld a supporting block at the base, how would we split the case to do any internal repairs if needed?