The luck is on my side, this weekend the engine run faster than ever, reduced vibrations.... Then the engines loose half the power and need to be at high rpm to stay on. Today i opened the engine and a piece of steel make two " boost port" style grooves in each transfer port to the top of the cylinder. I check the piston rings and they are ok, check the wrist pin bearing and it is ok. The steel piece must came from below. I need the special tool for open the engine to give a look. Now i need to rebuilt the whole engine....
Parts list:
Crank bearing.... ordered
.....SFK 6202 C3 open style not sealed can rev higher use the same engine lubricant. The sealed are self lubricated do not recomended for high revs or high temperatures
Minarelli piston 47mm 10mm pin....@ home same as our piston but better quality
JMP high performance copper gasket set... ordered
Light-wieght titanium 10mm Wrist pin... ordered
High Performance Bronze Bushing...ordered
Dellorto 21mm black series carb $33 made in china : ).... @ home
Dellorto velocity stack also a 38mm filter adapter... ordered
UNI 2 stage foam filter... ordered
Crank seals.... ordered
New cylinder ordered
Cylinder and head studs.... i buyed a bolt rod of ss and make them. Like arp for theese engine best material ever... i recomend change every bolt,stud, nuts.. with ss. They are super hard because the carbon inside forms carbides with the cromium and other metal but the cromium carbide is the king there... i tested them and works great..
Banshee reed valves @home
Need a new head( puch hi comp, racing one that they sell here $55, others?) Need help here i accept donations...
Going to powder coated the whole engine case in plastisol is a powder coating like plasti dip texture. To reduce noice.
Need to buy teflon to make the plates for crank case stuffing. Lowest coefficient of friction known will not harm the engine in case of failure.
Any recomendations?