I just ordered the crmachine 5.3cc head. The only part i need to change is the lower rod bearing i cant find any good bearing for 16x20x12mm. Any susgestion?
going case inducted!!!
- Thread starter mech_engineer
- Start date
i just ordered a bronze bearing for the lower rod bearing this is a test because i know that needle bearing can reach more rpm due to lower friction.
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I can probably get you one. But may take awhile to get it there.
I've ordered two Puch heads, and a sheet of green polini reed, for less than 1 fred head!
$50 shipping for a fred head to OZ, what a rip off!
I've ordered two Puch heads, and a sheet of green polini reed, for less than 1 fred head!
$50 shipping for a fred head to OZ, what a rip off!
$50 omg.... the head cost 60 at his crmachine.com and $12.75 shipping to puerto rico.
the two rod bearings will be a bronze bearing...
the two rod bearings will be a bronze bearing...
Here in OZ, $80 for the head and $50 postage?
He obviously likes Porte Ricans better than Ozzies.
Puch heads,$30 each.
Reed sheet approx. $30.
Postage $30.
I personaly like the puch heads better anyhow, I think they suit the 'rustic' look of these motors, and appear to have larger cooling fins. Quality may not be as good, but for the price, I went for the Hi comp head as opposed the Hi Hi Comp, as I think it looks to have adequate Compression, and was not wanting to have to mix special fuel for my bikes. Or stress the bearings to much.
He obviously likes Porte Ricans better than Ozzies.
Puch heads,$30 each.
Reed sheet approx. $30.
Postage $30.
I personaly like the puch heads better anyhow, I think they suit the 'rustic' look of these motors, and appear to have larger cooling fins. Quality may not be as good, but for the price, I went for the Hi comp head as opposed the Hi Hi Comp, as I think it looks to have adequate Compression, and was not wanting to have to mix special fuel for my bikes. Or stress the bearings to much.
Yeah, the whole shipping to OZ thing is a total rip off for the most part... I looked and I can get an RSE reed box here in the states for $80 but here's how they do it... The shipping to OZ is outrageous if you want your parts within a week or 2, but if you ship your goods over water, the price goes WAY down, but the catch is a 6 to 8 week delivery time, which is unacceptable by today's standards, unless you're a vendor and can wait the time.
I remember selling a Hurst shifter off ebay to a customer in OZ and he asked me to push the delivery company for the lowest rates, everyone was quoting me around $240 to $260 to ship this thing there, but I finally pushed them some more and that's when they said they could ship it over water for $40 but it would take about 2 months to deliver.
I came back home and contacted the customer and warned him about the wait and he accepted, he told me then that most shipping companies won't even tell me about shipping over water because of the highly marked up price for the airmail and that customers always complain about the shipping times.
So basically if you are willing to wait and the seller is willing to ship this method, you can get a good price, but most sellers either don't know about this method or just simply won't use it because they catch a lot of customer complaints asking where the stuff they bought is etc...
Maybe you can see if fred could water ship a few of his heads your way, it would be worth it after you got them and come in cheaper than the Puch heads + shipping, or you may even be able to get some Puch heads and see if the seller will ship over water.
I remember selling a Hurst shifter off ebay to a customer in OZ and he asked me to push the delivery company for the lowest rates, everyone was quoting me around $240 to $260 to ship this thing there, but I finally pushed them some more and that's when they said they could ship it over water for $40 but it would take about 2 months to deliver.
I came back home and contacted the customer and warned him about the wait and he accepted, he told me then that most shipping companies won't even tell me about shipping over water because of the highly marked up price for the airmail and that customers always complain about the shipping times.
So basically if you are willing to wait and the seller is willing to ship this method, you can get a good price, but most sellers either don't know about this method or just simply won't use it because they catch a lot of customer complaints asking where the stuff they bought is etc...
Maybe you can see if fred could water ship a few of his heads your way, it would be worth it after you got them and come in cheaper than the Puch heads + shipping, or you may even be able to get some Puch heads and see if the seller will ship over water.
@ Mech Engineer... nice start on that build, I see you got a good parts list going as well.
The bronze bushing in the lower end should work just fine as long as it's well lubricated with a small top rpm penalty, but it's a good alternative if you can't get a high quality needle roller bearing.
I was looking at some Tillotson carbs this morning on ebay and on Tillotson's web site and they look like they would work perfectly for these engines, but I can't find any specs on their diameter or venturi diameters. Tillotson also makes a full line of racing carbs, but they're very expensive.
Theon, does that Tilly you have got any part numbers stamped on the side of it anywhere? We can get those carbs real easy here from small engine shops and ebay, the prices are good and they do perform once tuned.
The bronze bushing in the lower end should work just fine as long as it's well lubricated with a small top rpm penalty, but it's a good alternative if you can't get a high quality needle roller bearing.
I was looking at some Tillotson carbs this morning on ebay and on Tillotson's web site and they look like they would work perfectly for these engines, but I can't find any specs on their diameter or venturi diameters. Tillotson also makes a full line of racing carbs, but they're very expensive.
Theon, does that Tilly you have got any part numbers stamped on the side of it anywhere? We can get those carbs real easy here from small engine shops and ebay, the prices are good and they do perform once tuned.
Found these bearings http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/hk1612-skf/8362
The OD is 2mm larger but you might be able to bore out the lower rod. I don't know if it would have enough meat on the none to do it as I haven't taken any measurements of the connecting rod, but look at the rpm rating.
The OD is 2mm larger but you might be able to bore out the lower rod. I don't know if it would have enough meat on the none to do it as I haven't taken any measurements of the connecting rod, but look at the rpm rating.
I think my 'Tilly' could be fairly old as the saw it came off looks antique, But the carb appears to be in good condition. It say's 'Made in USA, Toled
. 1963'. Also Has 'HS127B'.
I have a mate with a small engine shop down the road, he has a big box of that sort of stuff, been meaning to go and see him.
Cheers for the heads up on the shipping Dave, I don't know if I'd be willing to wait 8 weeks for something either, but good to know. Everything is around $30 shipping from states for smaller items, except fred. Besides I took offence to some rather arrogant comments he recently posted, And not sure I wish to purchase from him anyway.
The trick with postage seems to be order as much as you can from the one supplier in one go, Then $30 shipping don't seem quite so bad, when you compare it with some of the retail prices here.
. 1963'. Also Has 'HS127B'.I have a mate with a small engine shop down the road, he has a big box of that sort of stuff, been meaning to go and see him.
Cheers for the heads up on the shipping Dave, I don't know if I'd be willing to wait 8 weeks for something either, but good to know. Everything is around $30 shipping from states for smaller items, except fred. Besides I took offence to some rather arrogant comments he recently posted, And not sure I wish to purchase from him anyway.
The trick with postage seems to be order as much as you can from the one supplier in one go, Then $30 shipping don't seem quite so bad, when you compare it with some of the retail prices here.
Cool... So its an hs series for the carb... They have a chart on their website with each series and the engine size recommendations for each series, but they dont post the venturi or throat sizes except for their racing carbs which are in the 27mm range. I got some info off some of the ones for sale on ebay but that seller just said good for 7 to 11 hp.
Maybe I'll havd some time in the morning when I get home from work to do some more research.
Maybe I'll havd some time in the morning when I get home from work to do some more research.
The extra profit is in the shipping... just my 2 cents
I tried to open my engine case and the bolts are stuck : (. The poor bolts material is super cheap if the dont get loose i will drill them. today im going to the bolts shop to get ss bolts
I tried to open my engine case and the bolts are stuck : (. The poor bolts material is super cheap if the dont get loose i will drill them. today im going to the bolts shop to get ss bolts
Impact Driver is the go, but yes very poor bolts as standard, Stainless bolts can be soft also, Black HT allen head (cap Head) bolts are better.
Thanks i will try to get the impact driver from one of my friends. For now still dont know where the metal piece that damage the cylinder came from..
I fully agree that people also bump up the shipping costs to boost profit, lots of ebay sellers do that over here, and they do tend to take advantage of bumping the shipping up when sending out of the states.
I'm too new to this forum to have seen all of Fred's posts and I really don't know what kind of a person he is, but he does have an excellent product. But also in saying that, it doesn't matter how good your product is if you make arrogant or rude comments to potential buyers. There is 2 types of quality everyone should never forget when selling their stuff... Product quality of course, and Service quality... they both have to be excellent or people will buy elsewhere. I've already seen some Fred head knock offs on ebay and on other sites that are constructed very similar (they look almost exactly the same as his except they did the fins slightly different), and with the Puch head having very close to the same specs, that leaves your service quality that one must rely on.
I bought Fred's head because his was one of the best designs out there and proven by other people's comments in here and in the other forums confirming this. i got his head here and it is built very well and it's huge heat sinks (fins) and thick construction really keep the heat down, even in an un broken in engine with other upgrades added, I have nothing but good to say about it's build quality and performance, but that's no excuse to offend people in the forums and will cause others to look elsewhere. Like I said, I don't know him and I'm not judging him as a person, but if what you say is true, it can and will hurt his business. I'm hoping that was a misunderstanding, but without knowing for myself it's not my place to say buy or don't buy...
The same thing happened to me with a jug I bought from BoyGoesFast on ebay, it came with an intake that I won't be using so when taking the bolts out, one of them twisted right off, it looked like they used some red (super strong) locktite on the bolts when they installed them. The metal was also really soft so when I tried to easy out the broken bolt it wouldn't catch but I got it out by carefully driling all the way thru it. i'll need to re tap the hole and put in a helicoil before I can use it tho. This jug is decent quality but the ports are very sloppy with the plating overhanging the port openings, but the inside of the bore is nice and uniform plating, but also very smooth like almost a polished finish so it will need some mild honing before running as well. I had to cut off .009" or about 1/4mm to true up the deck as well, but no big deal since I cut off 1.25mm from the deck surface to set squish clearance, and may need to cut it some more once I mount it and measure where the piston top is. I got the copper gaskets from Juice Motorsports and they are really nice quality, but shipping was a bit slow, and the base gasket will need some slight trimming at the transfers.
As for the Tillotson carbs, I was able to find specs on most of them by going to their site and clicking on each carb where they tell the port and venturi diameters, but still not finding info on the older carbs they don't make anymore. They do make some awesome looking race carbs for the KT100 engines and other larger 2 and 4 strokes... even a 42mm which would be perfect for my Harley, but they do have lots of cantidates for these engines in sizes from a 16mm venturi up to 24mm and bigger. I don't see the need for anything bigger than 20mm for the venturi size unless someone does some serious mods to accomodate that much carb. Here's a sample of the race carbs from their site... http://www.tillotson-racing.com/collections/racing-1?page=4 but I'm still looking for a site that talks about the older carb specs to make it easier to match up one off ebay for our engines.
I'm too new to this forum to have seen all of Fred's posts and I really don't know what kind of a person he is, but he does have an excellent product. But also in saying that, it doesn't matter how good your product is if you make arrogant or rude comments to potential buyers. There is 2 types of quality everyone should never forget when selling their stuff... Product quality of course, and Service quality... they both have to be excellent or people will buy elsewhere. I've already seen some Fred head knock offs on ebay and on other sites that are constructed very similar (they look almost exactly the same as his except they did the fins slightly different), and with the Puch head having very close to the same specs, that leaves your service quality that one must rely on.
I bought Fred's head because his was one of the best designs out there and proven by other people's comments in here and in the other forums confirming this. i got his head here and it is built very well and it's huge heat sinks (fins) and thick construction really keep the heat down, even in an un broken in engine with other upgrades added, I have nothing but good to say about it's build quality and performance, but that's no excuse to offend people in the forums and will cause others to look elsewhere. Like I said, I don't know him and I'm not judging him as a person, but if what you say is true, it can and will hurt his business. I'm hoping that was a misunderstanding, but without knowing for myself it's not my place to say buy or don't buy...
The same thing happened to me with a jug I bought from BoyGoesFast on ebay, it came with an intake that I won't be using so when taking the bolts out, one of them twisted right off, it looked like they used some red (super strong) locktite on the bolts when they installed them. The metal was also really soft so when I tried to easy out the broken bolt it wouldn't catch but I got it out by carefully driling all the way thru it. i'll need to re tap the hole and put in a helicoil before I can use it tho. This jug is decent quality but the ports are very sloppy with the plating overhanging the port openings, but the inside of the bore is nice and uniform plating, but also very smooth like almost a polished finish so it will need some mild honing before running as well. I had to cut off .009" or about 1/4mm to true up the deck as well, but no big deal since I cut off 1.25mm from the deck surface to set squish clearance, and may need to cut it some more once I mount it and measure where the piston top is. I got the copper gaskets from Juice Motorsports and they are really nice quality, but shipping was a bit slow, and the base gasket will need some slight trimming at the transfers.
As for the Tillotson carbs, I was able to find specs on most of them by going to their site and clicking on each carb where they tell the port and venturi diameters, but still not finding info on the older carbs they don't make anymore. They do make some awesome looking race carbs for the KT100 engines and other larger 2 and 4 strokes... even a 42mm which would be perfect for my Harley, but they do have lots of cantidates for these engines in sizes from a 16mm venturi up to 24mm and bigger. I don't see the need for anything bigger than 20mm for the venturi size unless someone does some serious mods to accomodate that much carb. Here's a sample of the race carbs from their site... http://www.tillotson-racing.com/collections/racing-1?page=4 but I'm still looking for a site that talks about the older carb specs to make it easier to match up one off ebay for our engines.
My HS 'Tilly' has a 19mm Venturi, 21mm throat. the saw it came off has a 40mm stroke and 50mm piston, It looks to be a much better designed motor than a china girl, with wider ports, thinner rings, better bearings, ect and would likely make an awesome bike engine.
It is piston port and as I understand a reed valved motor does not need as large a carb as a piston port due to longer inlet duration, I very much doubt that any larger carb than this would be of any benefit to a china girl no mater how hard you got it to go.
There are a lot of things on Ebay that seem cheap until you add postage, and often the postage is way over priced. But then there is the convenience of having it delivered, especially when you live remote as I do. I often find that I get a better price in my local bike shop than I can get online and prefer to support a local if I can, Then there is China, and it seems they can ship things relatively quickly at a fraction of the price for shipping?
And it is the same product that local retailers must be putting often 200% or more on.
When I can get something at less than 1/2 price delivered, it makes it very hard to shop local.
Fred's posts that I am referring to were quite recent, on the lightning CDI thread, for which he coped a serving from the staff here, the second 'off' post was quickly removed/ covered up. But left me not liking his attitude. It don't seem that long ago that he was on here asking 'Newbie' questions from some of the threads I have read.
I do think Fred's heads look nicely made, just can't justify paying $130 for one, when the two Puch heads cost me $90 for both.
It is piston port and as I understand a reed valved motor does not need as large a carb as a piston port due to longer inlet duration, I very much doubt that any larger carb than this would be of any benefit to a china girl no mater how hard you got it to go.
There are a lot of things on Ebay that seem cheap until you add postage, and often the postage is way over priced. But then there is the convenience of having it delivered, especially when you live remote as I do. I often find that I get a better price in my local bike shop than I can get online and prefer to support a local if I can, Then there is China, and it seems they can ship things relatively quickly at a fraction of the price for shipping?
And it is the same product that local retailers must be putting often 200% or more on.
When I can get something at less than 1/2 price delivered, it makes it very hard to shop local.
Fred's posts that I am referring to were quite recent, on the lightning CDI thread, for which he coped a serving from the staff here, the second 'off' post was quickly removed/ covered up. But left me not liking his attitude. It don't seem that long ago that he was on here asking 'Newbie' questions from some of the threads I have read.
I do think Fred's heads look nicely made, just can't justify paying $130 for one, when the two Puch heads cost me $90 for both.
Did you finish your case inducted manifold? I opened my crank case and i did not find any thing wrong down there. The metal piece that ruin my engine do not came from other dimension any comments?
How old was the engine?
I have found brand new motors to have a lot of 'junk' in them from the factory.
could it have just been rubbish in the case from new that ruined your barrel?
The latest engine I got from Ebay, the chrome barrel lining was pitted, I ran it on an older motor, but in a very short period was ruined, as I imagine bits of chrome coming off and scoring everything. My advice, never leave feed back until you have disassembled motor, then contact seller and tell them you are unable to leave good feedback because...
This vendor immediately credited my paypal $40, with out question. I thanked them, and left good feedback. I also wished them luck with there supplier, most people would probably just accept the poor performance and short life of there motor.
I have found brand new motors to have a lot of 'junk' in them from the factory.
could it have just been rubbish in the case from new that ruined your barrel?
The latest engine I got from Ebay, the chrome barrel lining was pitted, I ran it on an older motor, but in a very short period was ruined, as I imagine bits of chrome coming off and scoring everything. My advice, never leave feed back until you have disassembled motor, then contact seller and tell them you are unable to leave good feedback because...
This vendor immediately credited my paypal $40, with out question. I thanked them, and left good feedback. I also wished them luck with there supplier, most people would probably just accept the poor performance and short life of there motor.
I dont know i am the 4 owner... : P a friend of mine gift it to me. Because it do not start, i change the oil for blendzall ultra and it started like new. I cheked the serial and result to be a 74' schiwnn I told the last two owners this and they almost took the bicycle back... I open the engine after each run and check the cylinder take a look on the crankcase. This is the second time i find metal pieces at the top of the piston but no more metal pieces were found at the crank case.
A good modification will be made a teflon bushings to be sure that the crank ball bearings stay in their place. This will provide more contact area to transfer the stresses at the case. Note the bushing need to be between the ball bearing and thre crank. The teflon will not harm the engine to be sure i propose this for racing engines only. This mod will correct any movement of the bearing that could lead to a crank bending due to momentum produced.
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