GEN IV dax build and review

[rogergendron1]

i tyhink i am goimg to take the motor off the bike as i was all exited and wanted to dive it so bad i put it up in the frame without painting it or claning off and rebuilding my cns carb lol. i am on my unkles computer now up in the spare room in maine so i thought it out a lil and i want to remove the motor and paint it all flat black with VHT high heat paint to match the trim on my cruiser then i will paint the tips of the fins pumpkin orange to match my bike frame color. the carb will be painted black also and the manifold pumkin orange, the exhaustt black header and orange x chamber. chrome air filter on the bike as there is some chrome trim to go along with the 2 tone black orange.

 

[Risingsunn]

Rog,
I am just now starting to read your thread and find it very interesting. I just got my Dax in the mail last week. The ONE thing I would ask of you is clearer photos. It's hard to see the details you talk about in blurry picts. Keep up the good work though!

 

[rogergendron1]

Rog,
I am just now starting to read your thread and find it very interesting. I just got my Dax in the mail last week. The ONE thing I would ask of you is clearer photos. It's hard to see the details you talk about in blurry picts. Keep up the good work though!

i am very poor so all i got is a cheap smart phone with a 3mp camera and the pics get e mailed to myself then uploaded lol sorry but its the best i can do right now unless i can borrow a family members camera lol

 

[rogergendron1]

any way i just painted the whole motor flat black with VHT high heat enamel and realized i got the wrong shade of orange so i am not doing the fin tips yet, i think i will dremal them to aluminum tips and then when i get the right shade of orange i can paint the fins later with a q tip or small foam brush. too dark right now so pics in the morning .

 

[rogergendron1]

ok here it is together, i have had a delema on what intake to use as i have the shorty aluminum and the long z intake.

the long z intake is 6 inches long and has a 16.25mm boar, that is 1/4 of a mm larger than the carbs venturi boar so using it would pose no restrictions aside from the turbulance created by bends in the tubing.

the shoty aluminum intake ony has a 13mm boar so the 16mm venturi on the cns v1 carb would be restricted by 3mm but it is a lot shorter at just under 3 in and the smaller diamiter boar wil flow fuel faster into the motor with more force, IE the straw effect... blow an amount of air through a thick straw and it comes out slow and with little force, but there is no resistance to to the moving air, but blow the same volume of air through a mutch mutch smaller boar straw and the air will come out the end fast and have lots of force, the only draw back is that it take more force to push that same volume of air through the smaller opening.

this would leave me to believe the smaller tighter intake will be a better choise for high rpm riding and quicker throttle responce, but may lag on the low end. the long intake, because its so long and has such a large boar may act like a sort of volumizer and hold enough fuel in it between strokes to help out the low end power on the motor, but it will take longer for a fresh chrge to get to the crank case so not the best for higher rpm's.

any way i went with the shorty intake with the smaller boar 13mm, for break in and tunning, and will swap out later to see if the longer larger boar makes a differance and if that differance is worth the swap or not .

what would you guys have used ? the 13mm shorty or the 16.25mm long intake ?

here are pics of the dax motor ready to go and on the bike. i have an old sock for an air filter right now and a modded stock exhaust for break in, but i am ordering a 90 degree filter from SBP and making up a tunned pipe for mid range to high rpms.


i just started with the trim paint so plz mind it lol, i am going to finnish painting the tips of the fins orange tomorrow after the motor heats up and cures the black VHT paint. this can be done with the motor in place so no worries. but here it is so far. the tips of the fins will have 3-4 coats of orange and the socket head bolts in the case and covers will be painted orange, the carb will be black with a orange or black or chrome filter hvnt decided yet. i like this brighter pumpkin orange and when i do the rear trike axle i will sand down and repaint the whole bike this color.

 

[rogergendron1]

alright i am ready to fire this thing up and head off to work ! THERE IS NO GAS IN THE TANK, ITS DEAD EMPTY SO I WILL PEDAL TO THE STATON ON THE CORNER AND THEN ADD A MIX OF 32 to 1 full synthetic oil (promix) and a bit of lucas oil uper cylinder lube to it to make it around 25 to 1 for the first tank. from then out it will be 32 to 1 . a mix of 50 to 1 pro mix and an ounce or so of lucas oil upper cylinder lube to get me to 32 to 1

ohh and i swapped out the pedal sprocket from a 44t to a 36t and the bike pedals so much easyer now !

 

[rogergendron1]

ok i am impressed so far the power comes on smooth and its not even broke in yet ! it is about as power full as my grubee was with its final porting and broke in motor but it does not rev as quick or as freely and there is some four stroking, i atribute this to the smaller diamiter boar of the aluminum intake and tonight i plan to swap out to the longer and mutch larger boar z manifold

i can litteraly feel the 3.25mm differance with the shorty intake ! it feels like its strangling the motor quite a bit compared to my grubee with larger port work and the 3.25mm larger manifold. even though its longer it alowed my grube to rev MUTCH MUTCH quicker and higher than this dax is now. i know with the extra 3mm boar diamiter this problem will be solved and the bike should rev the same as my grubee did ... lightning fing fast ! i feel like its there and should be able to do it after all i ported the heck out of the motor whats the point of using a strangling intake lol ???

i am shure going up to a 16.25mm boar intake it should rev much quicker and have even more poweer than my grubee did and its not even broke in yet !

 

[rogergendron1]

well the bike seems to be getting stronger and more powerfull as it goes, i have 15 miles on it and she is ripping right along now.

there is some four stroking using the same 16mm carb and jet setup that came off my last bike, the four stroking is just off idle and thats good because its only mild and i like it tunned to four stroke just off idle but clean up as i hit the gas, a little fat on the idle jet,
then there is four stroking at 3/4 to wot, i atribut this to the smaller diamiter manifold not being able to flow as mutch air as the wider one i had the carb perfectly tunned to be used with. it seemed to allow more air to flow and there was no four stroking aside just of idle .

the porting on this motor is realy damn near close to exact as the grubee gt5 was i mean i have a blueprint in my mind i follow when modding motors that seems to work the balls so the carb was tunned to the t with the grubee and the larger manifold and now that its the motor is running a smaller manifold with the same carb its four stroking more than i want. i am willing to bet swapping out to a larger boar intake will alow more air to the motor and cut the four stroking .

 

[rogergendron1]

ok i am painting up the case bolts so they POP out and painting the long intake and swaping over to it, i want the larger dia boar and believe it will offer better flow, also started with the first coat of paint on the fins, and cleaned up and rebuilt the carb.

 

[rogergendron1]

ok here it is done .....

i think i will keep it just the way it is, mabey some time down the road i might add a reed valve kit but it seems just fine the way it is. pleanty of power more so than my modded grubee gt5 and its not even broke in yet !

ohh a custom exhaust is being made for this for a strong mid to top end power band and i am going to a 40 t rear sprocket.

here are some pics of the compleated motor and a list of mods

1 puch 70 high high head
2 piston ramps for transfers and exhaust
3 piston skirt trim 7mm on the intake side full cut
4 titainium wrist pin from treatland
5 full port and polish over 1 mm each top exhaust and bottom intake and 1 mm extra width
6 long intake manifold with 16.25mm boar port matched to motor
7 16mm carb with large air filter
8 decked down jug (i only took a small amount off as in around .5mm or less)
9 balanced bottom end
10 47mm boar and 40mm stroke for a true 70cc motor !!!

 

[rogergendron1]

Well just put 10 more miles on it and i can tell you that for a fact it has a noticable amout more power all over the rpm range with the longer and 3mm larger boar intake manifold. Its nothing extreem but it made enough more power for me to notic and it seems to be making it at the bottom end and midrange. Also most of the fourstroking is now gone and only a lil bit remains when i. Cruising around wi no load on the motor. Witch is just what i want.

It seems to keep getting slowly more powerfull the more i ride it lol. I think i will just afd that custom exhaust when my girl gets around to it and keep it just as is.

 

[rogergendron1]

Ok guys. ... i got a mystery metal on metal sqeeking sound at slow to moderate speed riding . Its not coming from my front hub i spun it and checked pluss it has new grease in it. I spun e rear hub motor off and no noise though it could use a repacking then i put the bike up on a stand and startedvit and with the clutch out it begins that metal on metal sqeek sound then pull the clutch in and the sound goes away even though the tire is still spinning this leads me toconclude the sqeek is comming from the motor more spacificly the clutch arm pin is what i suspect. the clutch arm pin wasgreassed from the facgory thiugh. Mabey not enough . What do u guys think. Should i pull the clutch cover and grease it to see if that fixes it. my ast motor i just used 2 stroke oil and i never had a problem. I used to pull the cover off every week and pull the pin and ball then fill the hole with 2 sttroke oil and i never had a prob and tbe clutch pulled easy and smooth. This motor came with grease on the pin so i didnt bother i think the grease wore off and now its sqealing ! Any one have this happen whars your fix

 

[chris8686]

I also have this motor and I does not have a ball bearing between the pin and clutch shaft. The grease on mine does wear off from time to time and starts to make a squeal sound when the clutch cable is pulled. I try to minimally grease the clutch and drive gear. My clutch pads too often got grease slung on the and would slip when trying to start it.

 

[rogergendron1]

are you saying the dax motor does not have the ball bearing in the clutch pintle set up and thats what causes the squeeling when the grease wheres off ?? if so i will cut it down 5/16 and add a 5/16 bearing to stop this, also i will regrease it with white lithium or just do like before and pure 2 stoke oil in the hole lol hey it worked realy good !

someone else must have had this mystery squeel problem with the dax motor or any other motor and have a definate fix for it let me know whats up plz

when driving slow whith the clutch out it goes squeek squeek squeek squeek lol untill i speed up then it goes away, if i pull the clutch in and put preasure on it it goes away also. it sonded like iy was coming from my front tire so i checked and thought its impossable cause i just repacked it, then i checked the rear coaster hub and all was good, so it must be the motor and the clutch pintle is the ony thing i can see thats metal on metal that could make a squeek like this.

i am partialy def from the millitary and i can not determain where the sound is coming from b ear as its a pitch i can not hear corrrectly so i am confused and on the verge of pulling my whole clutch and doing a rebuild of the whole shaft and pad/plate setup

 

[rogergendron1]

the first 2 pics is where i think the squeek is coming from, has anyone tried removing the clutch cable adjusting nut to have acsess to the clutch rod and spring and install a grease fitting to grease the shaft easily ? all one would have to do is rerout the cable holder with some inginuity

 

[chris8686]

I have 3 dax engines, 2 do not have a ball bearing and 1 does. the one that does have the bearing is not a gen IV bottom end and is a parts engine. I dip the end of the pin in all Valvoline all purpose car grease. It comes in a tub and is thick and red. I have over 1,000 miles on on my engine that does not have the bearing and it has made this squealing sound twice. Both times the lube on the end of the pin fixed her right up

 

[rogergendron1]

I have 3 dax engines, 2 do not have a ball bearing and 1 does. the one that does have the bearing is not a gen IV bottom end and is a parts engine. I dip the end of the pin in all Valvoline all purpose car grease. It comes in a tub and is thick and red. I have over 1,000 miles on on my engine that does not have the bearing and it has made this squealing sound twice. Both times the lube on the end of the pin fixed her right up

ohh and on a side not i did a 50 mile ride today in the foggy wet new england weather and it preformed very well concidering the moisture in the air ! the only hic-up was when it started raining hard the air filter got all wet and she lost top end power and hill climb speed i had to slow down to climb hills cause it couldnt pull enough air through the wet filter. i think the motor is about broke in ... well almost lol i got about 150 miles on it so far and it seems to be settling in power wize. the next tank of gas will be true fuel pre mix 92 oct 40:1 ethanol free fuel with an oz of lucas oil upper cyclinder lube to bring it close to 32:1 over all mix.

i will run true fuel 40:1 with the extra cylinder lube at 32:1 for a few tanks then switch over to the red premix brigs and stratton 92 oct 50:1 mix with enough lucas oil cylinder lube mixed to bring it to 40:1 over all

-so i broke in with first ride 10 miles at 20:1
-then stopped and added some gas to the tank to make it 25 to 1 for 10 more miles
-then added more gas to the fuel to make it 32 to 1 and have been running it for the last 150 miles or so.

for break in i ran ( pro-mix synthetic oil mixed with 93 oct) for fuel and i am about to swap out to pre mix for good.
-then stopped

here is my mix for high rpm riding and maintaining a high rpm motor, this mix will keep it running clean and keep the cylinder from getting scored. the lucas oil cylinder lube is also a carbon deposit cleaner as well as a excelant lubricant,

i add .5 oz of upper cylinder lube per 32 oz of pre mix 50 to 1 or 40 to 1 ethanol free fuel and shake like a mad man to mix it up even.

or i add 3oz full synthetic oi preferably opti 2 or pro-mix to 1 gal of gas then ad in 1oz cylinder lube then shake the jug like mad and use

for all of you wondering why i use 93 octaine its because i am running the puch 70cc high high heaad witch has a 6cc chamber and that = 12:1 comp on a 66cc motor on the dax 70 cc its 12.98 to 1 comp ratio acording to my measurements and using this calculator

1 cylinder
4.7cm boar
4cm stroke
6cc head
.4mm head gasket
.03mm piston deck hight
2cc domed piston

12.98 comp

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CompRatioCalc.html

12.98 static or uncorrected comp is pretty high and my rear tire drags if i dont pop the clutch just right lol my dynamic compression is even higher so high oct fuel is called for and not a waste of money in my circumstance.

 

[chris8686]

I'm in the 100:1 club using opti2 and amsoil sabre pro

 

[apex]

someone else must have had this mystery squeel problem with the dax motor or any other motor and have a definate fix for it let me know whats up plz

when driving slow whith the clutch out it goes squeek squeek squeek squeek lol untill i speed up then it goes away, if i pull the clutch in and put preasure on it it goes away also. it sonded like iy was coming from my front tire so i checked and thought its impossable cause i just repacked it, then i checked the rear coaster hub and all was good, so it must be the motor and the clutch pintle is the ony thing i can see thats metal on metal that could make a squeek like this.

I have a new dax motor as well. I developed a sqeak after about 200 miles. I isolated it to the clutch to sprocket shaft assembly. I pulled the sprocket cover removed the small bar and yes, there is a ball bearing inside shaft. I greased it up good. I also removed the cluth cable perch on the motor casing and pushed some grease in there as well.

The squeak is gone, for me.

Here is Happy Time Harry.


Good luck finding yours.

I too am quite pleased with this motor. Mine is still bone stock, for now.

 

[mapbike]

I have three of the GenIV dax engines and all of them as well as ALL other china girl/ HT engines have an 8mm ball bearing under the clutch pintle shaft, sometimes they may be covered with grease and this may lead someone to think it ient there but it is and should be well greased with high quality tacky red or other high quality grease, 2 stroke oil or any other oil is definitely NOT what should be used to lube the ball bearing, premature wear and possible running dry will cause damage and could cause a squealing noise if its not lubed properly with good gr8 ase NOT oil.

Map