Morgan inspired cyclecar

[Intrepid Wheelwoman]

I'm not sure what your licensing people would say about cutting down the HD frame Silverbear. Here in New Zealand such things are generally frowned on and inspections and engineer's reports are demanded.

No I don't think nine feet is too long, take a look at the picture of a French Darmont that I've attached to this post. And Darmont wasn't alone in building according to the 'longer is better ' school of thought either.

 

[silverbear]

Yes,
I had thought that the more intact the Harley was the better in terms of passing through the powers that be. I figured that if the Harley was intact from rear wheel to head tube including serial numbers and had both engine and transmission as part of that unit it would be best and perhaps also make putting it all together as a cyclecar an easier proposition.

I like several things about that Darmont. The front end I'm envisioning on my machine is less vertical than most and the Darmont, too, is a more rounded look. I believe my canoe stern would stick out less than what they did and their's does not look bad, so OK on that. I very much like how the rear section hinges up behind the seat. If I did that then my whole drive train would be easily accessible both for inspection and maintenance. Foreward of the seat would give access to a bit of stowage for groceries, tool kit and perhaps the gas tank.

I had been thinking before that I would need more depth for comfortable seating and saw an answer to that problem in one of the Morgans which had a kind of "stepped" body. I can see doing that so that the stepped portion was from the seat forward... in other words a dropped down section of perhaps six inches and inset from the gunnels six inches or so on each side. The lines of the body would remain the same in other words and the the body line would still flow along the lines of the gunnel.

I can also see that having the front axle run under the forward part of the copper boiler "radiator" cowling would help to keep the overall length manageable... as on the Darmont where the axle is under the 'nose' instead of ahead of it as with many of the period cyclecars, including the Morgan or at least most models of the Morgan. I won't have an exposed engine sitting out front.

Much to think about, but also much time lies ahead for doing the thinking and 'creative staring'. Your photos have been very helpful and I thank you for that. Merci!
SB

 

[Ludwig II]

My thoughts are that length equal directional stability. If you go too short you will have a twitchy racing kart of a thing. Consider giving yourself a crumple zone at the front, using p.u. foam as well, and perhaps have strong chassis rails high in the body to give protection from side impact.

 

[silverbear]

My thoughts are that length equal directional stability. If you go too short you will have a twitchy racing kart of a thing. Consider giving yourself a crumple zone at the front, using p.u. foam as well, and perhaps have strong chassis rails high in the body to give protection from side impact.

I had been thinking the same about the twitchy handling if it is shortened. I can also see that I do not have great weight distribution... pretty light at the front end.

I've been thinking about the structural integrity of this thing and from the beginning had been picturing a 3/4" plywood base set into a framework of angle iron made from bed rails I keep collecting from the local dump. Your thought on having some structure higher up is a good one, something like a "cage" in other words. And your suggestion of a crumple zone using foam is also a very good idea. I do want to be riding in something more than an open go-kart.

I have also been picturing from the start of this having a roll bar of some sort. My head even with a helmet will not make a good roll bar, tending to crumple. I've been watching for that shape at the dump, but nothing yet. I imagine that I could adapt one from a Suzuki Samurai. but don't want anything that big. I did see on one or more of the old cyclecars that a spare wheel was fitted into a kind of slot directly behind the cockpit seat, forming at the same time a kind of "roll bar" for at least a semblance of head protection. A lot better than nothing. Not that I intend to race this thing and roll over, but better safe than sorry or in my case dead. Thank you for your suggestions!
SB

 

[Ludwig II]

Does the roll bar have to be visible? You could weld straight pieces together and hide them in a streamlined headrest if you wanted to.

A cut down and welded 4 x 4 bull bar might have the right shape though.

I worked at a place that made sacrificial tail blisters for aircraft (to save structural damage in event of over rotation on take off or landing). Perhaps the head fairing could be fibreglass and fill that with high density foam like they were made?