Time to give up?

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MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
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California
So I've been working on this thing since last summer, pouring around $800 into this thing, being a highschooler... that's a lot.

I've always had problems with this thing, having to replace part after part, and never had it working for more than a 2 weeks, something eventually goes wrong. I admit most of those things are my fault, but it's really frustrating to have to push this heavy bike a couple miles up hill whenever it breaks down.

This weekend I saw one of my front mount studs broken off, I can't easy-out the thing, it won't work. Then I saw my down tube has a big crack.

I think I'm done -- how much should I be able to sell this on craigslist? This really greasy engine, and cracked Nirve B1? I guess this is more of a rant... hope all goes well for everybody else.
 

Allen_Wrench

Resident Mad Scientist
Feb 6, 2010
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Indianapolis
Best thing I can recommend is that, should you have a change of heart later on and want to try again, search through some of the threads and posts in this forum pertaining to upgrades, installation tips, similar stuff.
Speaking of Craigslist, often you can find some real classics on there. Sturdy steel framed cruisers that can generally take more punishment than some of the cheaper models of bikes we commonly see. Heck, my old JC Higgins was being pitched because (at the time) it looked too awful for anybody to buy it from the seller's garage sale. I think she cleaned up nice, and she is super solid.
I've learned a few things in the meanwhile too. Like: the chain guide/tensioner has to be VERY securely mounted; it's often good to replace the motor mount bolts early on with something stronger, as well as the head bolts; it's important to make the mounting seats of the engine case as flush against the frame as humanly possible; and lots more that I can't think of right off hand.
Some people might discover they'd be much happier with some other hobby. This forum has all the crazy ones who stuck it out, and learned a few things along the way. And we posted what we know for other MBers to read and learn for free. And there are some real experts here too. If you decide to keep your bike after all, I'm sure there are a lot of us who will help however we can.
 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Mystery,
The Nirve B-1 is a steel framed bike. I'm very surprised the frame cracked.
Would it be possible for you to post some closeup photos of your engine mounts, both front and rear? That would help us diagnose what might have caused the failures.

As for other problems you've had, what were they and what did you do to fix them?

We'd hate to see you give up even though I can understand your frustrations. Stick with it just a while and let's see if we can't talk you through some of the issues and get you back on the road with a little more reliability that you've had so far.

Tom
 

ocho ninja

Member
Jan 14, 2012
564
2
16
San Jose, CA
If you ever had chance to come down to san jose me or my friend could help you out.
He has been putting motorized bicycles together for a while and has encountered all the problems in the book. In addition we both have access to welders.
 

MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
196
0
0
California
Best thing I can recommend is that, should you have a change of heart later on and want to try again, search through some of the threads and posts in this forum pertaining to upgrades, installation tips, similar stuff.
Speaking of Craigslist, often you can find some real classics on there. Sturdy steel framed cruisers that can generally take more punishment than some of the cheaper models of bikes we commonly see. Heck, my old JC Higgins was being pitched because (at the time) it looked too awful for anybody to buy it from the seller's garage sale. I think she cleaned up nice, and she is super solid.
I've learned a few things in the meanwhile too. Like: the chain guide/tensioner has to be VERY securely mounted; it's often good to replace the motor mount bolts early on with something stronger, as well as the head bolts; it's important to make the mounting seats of the engine case as flush against the frame as humanly possible; and lots more that I can't think of right off hand.
Some people might discover they'd be much happier with some other hobby. This forum has all the crazy ones who stuck it out, and learned a few things along the way. And we posted what we know for other MBers to read and learn for free. And there are some real experts here too. If you decide to keep your bike after all, I'm sure there are a lot of us who will help however we can.
Yeah, plenty of things I learned also, I thought I was going to stick it out, but this cracked frame... I might push through though, maybe..

Sell it, take a break, then start over. Do a lot of research before purchasing anything.
I did a ton of research before I started, I spent the extra $100 to buy the better engine kit from VMB, found a good base bike, and did all those things like cleaning out the gas tank, loctite... I watched a ton of tutorials on how to build them so I could see if I could do it or not

Mystery,
The Nirve B-1 is a steel framed bike. I'm very surprised the frame cracked.
Would it be possible for you to post some closeup photos of your engine mounts, both front and rear? That would help us diagnose what might have caused the failures.

As for other problems you've had, what were they and what did you do to fix them?

We'd hate to see you give up even though I can understand your frustrations. Stick with it just a while and let's see if we can't talk you through some of the issues and get you back on the road with a little more reliability that you've had so far.

Tom
Uhmm I don't know where to start, one of my first problems before I even mounted the engine was that the sprocket cover screws were stuck and the heads were messed up from me trying to get em out. (Easy out didn't work, I tried JB weld'ing a bolt to it, eventually I just took a big drill head and completely removed the screw heads)
Let's see... my first base bike turned out to have a faulty rear wheel (I thought I got a bargain on CL, that's when I went big and bought the Nirve B1)
Had a fuel leak problem once (one of those things that were my fault... I just ended up buying thinner fuel line), one time I was riding back from school when something happened to my spark plug/wire (had to order new ones off SBP), multiple spark plugs fouling even though I was following rules on oil/gas ratio and setting my carb right. And some other less-headachy ones.

Here are some pics
I'm pretty sure I tightened the rear mount quickly, I should've bought that torque wrench...:




If you ever had chance to come down to san jose me or my friend could help you out.
He has been putting motorized bicycles together for a while and has encountered all the problems in the book. In addition we both have access to welders.
Thanks, but I don't think Ill ever be going down there =X
 

ocho ninja

Member
Jan 14, 2012
564
2
16
San Jose, CA
Its okay, well not sure how much you can get out of it now...
If your trying to get rid of it just let me know or post it up on the swap and shop here, someone will buy it.v
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
I'd really like to see how the front of the engine was mounted. You weren't using rubber in the mounts, were you?. That frame failure would be consistant with the front mount not being solid enough to keep the engine from vibrating. That is a stress failure caused by something being much too loose and allowed to vibrate against the frame.

My guess would be that the front mount fastener failure contributed to the damage I see to the seat tube. How long did you ride the bike with the broken mount?


Failure of the kit supplied spark plug boot is very common. It should be replaced with an automotive quality part during the initial installation of the engine.

Fuel leaks are easy to diagnose and repair. Really not a big issue but they can be aggravating, no doubt. Sounds like you took care of that.

Your frame could be repaired. It will take a welder with experience in welding thin material. I'd suggest cutting the tube and doubling it with a stub on the inside to add strength. Easier said than done however. A doubler welded to the outside of the tube would work but that will increase the size requiring some modification to the engine case/mount. Too bad you can't hook up with Ocho Ninja. He'd be able to help, I'm sure.

Tom
 

Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
12,765
115
48
58
Moosylvania
Just humor me MysterySandwich. If a student struggled this incredibly hard and came to you with their eyes just glazed over and (understandably) wanting to throw in the towel, what would you tell them?

If you walk away while it is still a failed project, it will always be in the loss column. In a Bronx, NY accent, gotta be "****Me, na, no. ****you"

As was said above, take a break then hit it again and hard. You can do this. I have faith in you and know you can do it!

Once she is up, running and purring like the finely oiled machine you intended, beat that **** thing to death with a bat until it is out of your system.


That way it will be "win/win" it lost and you won.


You can do this. Don't give up the ship until your socks are wet and your boots are full of water.


.flg.
 
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MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
196
0
0
California
Its okay, well not sure how much you can get out of it now...
If your trying to get rid of it just let me know or post it up on the swap and shop here, someone will buy it.v
If I do decide to get ride of it, I'll probably put it up on CL to avoid shipping hassle and whatnot

I'd really like to see how the front of the engine was mounted. You weren't using rubber in the mounts, were you?. That frame failure would be consistant with the front mount not being solid enough to keep the engine from vibrating. That is a stress failure caused by something being much too loose and allowed to vibrate against the frame.

My guess would be that the front mount fastener failure contributed to the damage I see to the seat tube. How long did you ride the bike with the broken mount?


Failure of the kit supplied spark plug boot is very common. It should be replaced with an automotive quality part during the initial installation of the engine.

Fuel leaks are easy to diagnose and repair. Really not a big issue but they can be aggravating, no doubt. Sounds like you took care of that.

Your frame could be repaired. It will take a welder with experience in welding thin material. I'd suggest cutting the tube and doubling it with a stub on the inside to add strength. Easier said than done however. A doubler welded to the outside of the tube would work but that will increase the size requiring some modification to the engine case/mount. Too bad you can't hook up with Ocho Ninja. He'd be able to help, I'm sure.

Tom
Nope no rubber mounts (I remember seeing you post about those saying we should just deal with vibrations) I was using a U bolt and this metal rectangle with holes for the mount studs/U-bolt. I rode it for only a day without the front mount... I guess before it was broken it wasn't as secure as it should've been?

Unfortunately, there aren't any weld shops around me (there WAS a machine shop, but they closed down a couple years ago). I'd have to travel with a car somewhere far... the 'rents would not be willing to do that. Of course money is another issue to pay the welder anyway

Just humor me MysterySandwich. If a student struggled this incredibly hard and came to you with their eyes just glazed over and (understandably) wanting to throw in the towel, what would you tell them?

If you walk away while it is still a failed project, it will always be in the loss column. In a Bronx, NY accent, gotta be "****Me, na, no. ****you"

As was said above, take a break then hit it again and hard. You can do this. I have faith in you and know you can do it!

Once she is up, running and purring like the finely oiled machine you intended, beat that **** thing to death with a bat until it is out of your system.


That way it will be "win/win" it lost and you won.


You can do this. Don't give up the ship until your socks are wet and your boots are full of water.


.flg.
This.
This makes me want to continue, but money is an issue. I only have somewhat $250 in my savings, and no job since last month (and I'm not exactly eager on spending it all). I feel if I bought a new engine kit and a generic cruiser I'd be able to do it quickly... but i really don't know at this point. =/
 
So I've been working on this thing since last summer, pouring around $800 into this thing, being a highschooler... that's a lot.
These things are expensive per mile - particularly if you factor in labor. Believe me, you have my sympathies.

I've always had problems with this thing, having to replace part after part, and never had it working for more than a 2 weeks, something eventually goes wrong. I admit most of those things are my fault, but it's really frustrating to have to push this heavy bike a couple miles up hill whenever it breaks down.
Listen to Jeri.

This weekend I saw one of my front mount studs broken off, I can't easy-out the thing, it won't work. Then I saw my down tube has a big crack.
I'll probably be excommunicated for this, but if serious transportation is your object, a geared hub motor
requires much less maintenance than an internal combustion engine. Yes, that means an e-bike.
I think I'm done -- how much should I be able to sell this on craigslist? This really greasy engine, and cracked Nirve B1? ...
In cracked condition, it may be difficult to sell.
Find some suitable sleeving tubing, cut it down its length, place it around the broken section, clamp it with hose clamps, (if you don't have a welder) drill a few holes through sleeving and seat tube, bolt together with hard bolts.
Or maybe you can find one of these the right size:
 

MotorBicycleRacing

Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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Was your rear mount flat against the seat tube?

It looks like the sharp edge of the mount block was digging into
the tube and the tube got crushed.
Also the paint is rubbed off so was it loose and sawing on the tube?

Maybe save the frame by putting a tight fitting piece of pipe/ tubing
down the seat post.

An extra seat post all the way down to the bottom bracket might have
saved your frame?

Here are some pics
I'm pretty sure I tightened the rear mount quickly, I should've bought that torque wrench...:


 
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Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
12,765
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Moosylvania
Completely understandable MS. Can save the parts for a more opportune time.

Just don't let it beat you.


I will be looking forward to when you post pics of your next build.
 

VIKTR

New Member
Jan 10, 2012
193
0
0
San Diego
I bet you could be up and running again for under $5

I have four bicycle frames I don't want and will give away to anyone that asks for them.

If you scour craigslist you will find complete bicycles for free, or if you make a post asking for one, I bet someone would come up with what you're looking for. If not what you're looking for, at least something to be mobile again.

If I were you, I wouldn't give up... but wouldn't spend anymore either. Get mobile, and ride until you've got your moneys worth or the engine dies. :D
 

MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
196
0
0
California
Find some suitable sleeving tubing, cut it down its length, place it around the broken section, clamp it with hose clamps, (if you don't have a welder) drill a few holes through sleeving and seat tube, bolt together with hard bolts.
Or maybe you can find one of these the right size:
Didn't watch the whole video... basically push through all the BS when working on something?

What is one of those things picture'd there? I'll have a look at ACE.

Was your rear mount flat against the seat tube?

It looks like the sharp edge of the mount block was digging into
the tube and the tube got crushed.
Also the paint is rubbed off so was it loose and sawing on the tube?

Maybe save the frame by putting a tight fitting piece of pipe/ tubing
down the seat post.

An extra seat post all the way down to the bottom bracket might have
saved your frame?
I believe it was flat against it... not sure what happened.
I'll look for one of those things Nehmo posted, whenever I find out what they're called.


EDIT: Pipe Repair Clamps... will those be effective for "repairing" my frame?
(Now that it seems I'm not giving up... thanks everybody)
 

Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
12,765
115
48
58
Moosylvania
I bet you could be up and running again for under $5

I have four bicycle frames I don't want and will give away to anyone that asks for them.

If you scour craigslist you will find complete bicycles for free, or if you make a post asking for one, I bet someone would come up with what you're looking for. If not what you're looking for, at least something to be mobile again.

If I were you, I wouldn't give up... but wouldn't spend anymore either. Get mobile, and ride until you've got your moneys worth or the engine dies. :D

Good Guy Viktr. You rock.
 

MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
196
0
0
California
I bet you could be up and running again for under $5

I have four bicycle frames I don't want and will give away to anyone that asks for them.

If you scour craigslist you will find complete bicycles for free, or if you make a post asking for one, I bet someone would come up with what you're looking for. If not what you're looking for, at least something to be mobile again.

If I were you, I wouldn't give up... but wouldn't spend anymore either. Get mobile, and ride until you've got your moneys worth or the engine dies. :D
Whoops didn't see this, I'll try looking and maybe make a post
How-how much do you think it would be to ship one of those frames you got there?

Putting a seat tube or piece of pipe inside your seat tube would
be stronger and cleaner.
Ohh I see what you mean, like remove the seat and shove something down there? I feel like that's a bit more complicated than it sounds (stuff always is) like when I try putting something in there, because the tube is already bent inwards I'd have trouble having something nice and night go into it.

And DAN, I will post em if I ever do get them done. I really just wish I can start over fresh with all my money... would get a kit and a simpler cruiser.... maybe I should do that now. $100 Walmart cruiser and $150 kit off ebay...
 

Mike B

New Member
Mar 23, 2011
2,256
7
0
Central CA
Your frame is toast, take the parts off and throw it inna trash.

Consider a friction drive. They are easy, you are light and there is not much rain in CA.
 
EDIT: Pipe Repair Clamps... will those be effective for "repairing" my frame?
Personally, I'd just make one from sheet metal using a vice and a scrap pipe for the mold, but you might find (a right size) one you can just use. You don't need the rubber. That's for water-tightness. You'll still need to drill some holes and add bolts to secure it from separating. Maybe add a couple of welds when you find somebody with a machine.
If you want to do an internal sleeve, you'll need to cut the seat tube at the crack with a tube cutter > separate the broken parts horizontally > insert internal tube in one of the broken ends (make a hole in the seat tube to stick small screwdriver or something to manipulate the internal tube)> align the tubes > push the internal tube so the cut is at its center of length > drill holes> bolt with hard bolts.

And another idea: Frames by themselves are easy to get for free. Post an ad on Craig's list saying you want bike parts "Dead or Alive". A begging sign by your curb will work too.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,266
1,797
113
Los Angeles, CA.
I concur with MBR... I have to wonder how that engine was mounted to cause that frame to crack like that?? :(

I've seen plenty of frames crack on the down tube; but not on the seat post tube.