break in for 4 stroke 49cc

[roadrockett]

hi all this is my 2nd build . I went with a hs 49cc on a Schwinn Delmar just waiting for a wide crank to be delivered. looks great runs great.but I was wondering if there is a special break-in procedure for the 4 strokes? I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow thanks

 

[The_Aleman]

<removed out of protest to certain "staff" practices in this forum.>

 

[roadrockett]

thanks Aleman
one more thing what blade for intake .004 or .006

 

[Fugi93]

hi all this is my 2nd build . I went with a hs 49cc on a Schwinn Delmar just waiting for a wide crank to be delivered. looks great runs great.but I was wondering if there is a special break-in procedure for the 4 strokes? I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow thanks

For what 8 oz of oil costs, it wouldn't hurt to change it after your first 10 miles. Who knows what's in there from the factory. Keep a close eye on the oil level for your first 500 too. I damn near ran mine dry.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

one more thing what blade for intake .004 or .006

intake is .004
exhaust is .006

 

[Fugi93]

intake is .004
exhaust is .006

Is that for all-around driving, or low or high speed operation? I have seen quite a few different settings suggusted, but don't know why.

 

[The_Aleman]

<removed out of protest to certain "staff" practices in this forum.>

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Straight weight oils like SAE30 or SAE40 are best for air cooled engines and available at your favorite place to buy oil.

I would not use the 10w oils in a small air cooled engine.

 

[The_Aleman]

<removed out of protest to certain "staff" practices in this forum.>

 

[Fugi93]

Why not? Many here have used multi-vis oils in their 4-strokes without issue. I ran nothing but 20W50 in my old hopped-up Bug engine, and aircooled Porsche engines, turbo or not, have no problems with multi-vis, either. The biggest problem with straightweights like SAE30 is they increase the time it takes for the engine to warm up. Multi-vis oils allow oil to flow properly in colder temps. Today's multi-vis oil is extremely high quality, too. Well, unless it's Pennzoil

The only advantage straightweights have is that they don't "break down" as easy, making SAE30 ideal for utility engines that may run a long time between oil changes. 15W40 is typically superior than SAE30 - has a much wider operating temp range and higher shear strength.

From experience with 4 cycle weed trimmers whose motors are enclosed, I highly recommend Rotella 5w 40 in any air cooled 4 cycle engine. As far as Mobile 1, don't do it. They don't even have the C certification and my weed trimmers died quck.

 

[scotto-]

For break-in.....ride it like you stole it using a quality petroleum based oil. Do not rev past 9,000rpm if and until the engine is infact brokin in. Change oil frequently and ride every day!

 

[showcaller]

I know this has nothing to do with what kind of oil one should use and how often you should change it but you have a really nice bike. Maybe you have some really super coaster brakes on it as I don't see any other type of brake. Maybe you have had good luck with them. I know from personal experience that coaster brakes are not designed to work with our bikes after we install an engine. The best decision I made was having a disc brake installed on the front. Made a world of difference.

 

[roadrockett]

yes you are right all it has is coaster brakes. I don't plan on running this one very fast so hopefully I won't need to upgrade the brakes on it. just got the wide crank today so install tomorrow and see if I can get this carb issue worked out idling erratic, I cleaned out the low speed jet but still not good

 

[scotto-]

yes you are right all it has is coaster brakes. I don't plan on running this one very fast so hopefully I won't need to upgrade the brakes on it. just got the wide crank today so install tomorrow and see if I can get this carb issue worked out idling erratic, I cleaned out the low speed jet but still not good

I can tell you this.....the Huasheng 49cc carburetor is very temperamental when it comes to any foreign matter, no matter how small it is (invisible to the naked eye) and must be cleaned out completely if the carb is not infact defective from the factory. Clean it and then clean it again is what I'm saying. And again if need be.

And yes, coaster brakes are made for 20" stingrays and that's all I have to say about that.

 

[KCvale]

Don't go by days or miles, go by hours of operation.
For a new motor change the initial oil after an hour of operation.
Change it after 5 hours next.
After that every 20-30 hours will keep it in good shape but even 50 hours should be fine.

I remember when I worked for my dad's roofing company and tended the hot tar kettle, job one every morning was change the hot tar pump motor oil.

For those 4-strokers they use on construction sites to run a generator and it runs 8 hours a day they changed oil at least once a week if not more often but again it is by hours, if you only ride 1/2 an hour 5 days a week you can go a long time between changes.

 

[The_Aleman]

Not everyone has an hour meter on their bike, and taking lots of short rides in a day is much harder on oil than a few long rides.

That said, not everyone has a speedometer/odometer on their bike, either. Why I said changing oil every 2-4 months is a safe estimation of when to do it.

 

[Jumpa]

I have a question I've been getting rattled to death slowly but surely via china 66CC engines on my bikes for a lil over 5 years now . Just looking at that 4 stroke engine on your bike makes me feel as if it is a lot less hassle to deal with much easier to start and would blow away my 66/CC on the 1/4 mile run. I can almost hear the super low idle nice and quiet not blowing smoke as if it is on a mosquito killing operation fumigating the neighbor hood like my 2 stroke does I love my 2 stroke It's just I see tranquility in the 4 stroke I think they are much more dependable and faster, is this assumption correct?
.. I have an 8 HP Tecumseh Iv'e been eyeballing, "for a future trike set up" and speaking of "Mobile 1 Pathetic" oops I mean "Synthetic" the stuff killed the motor in my 1993 Mustang GT 45,054 original miles on stock 302 5.0 HO Motor. I should a stuck with my Gastrol I used on every oil change prior to swapping over to the Mobile 1

 

[showcaller]

Wow... You are comparing an 8 H.P. four stroke to your 66 CC two stroke. Two totally different animals and I would suspect that vibration issues would be the last of your issues!

 

[Jumpa]

No that must have come out wrong I was merely looking at the 8 hp Tecumseh and dreaming of "what if"

I was comparing my 66CC 2 stroker ,motor to the op's 4 stroke motor betting the 4 stroke is a lot smoother and faster + more dependable & wanted his opinion on the 2 stroke vs the 4 stroke that is all .

The 8 hp mention was merely a passing thought I should have kept to myself. I'm thinking of making a trike with the 8 HP but thats another day.

 

[showcaller]

Well in that case.... lol, I switched from a 66 CC two stroke for many reasons and vibration was one of them though it seems some folks have figured out how to mount a two stroke without your teeth falling out after 8 miles at 30 mph. I have a 26" cruiser with the four stroke 49 CC on it and love it. I go as fast as my two stroke and that is without any modifications. Doesn't vibrate me to death. It's all good!

 

[KCvale]

I switched from a 66 CC two stroke for many reasons and vibration was one of them though it seems some folks have figured out how to mount a two stroke without your teeth falling out after 8 miles at 30 mph.

I'm sorry but I just can't relate directly with all the vibration issues people seem to have, 50 some 2-stroke builds and not a one had any noticeable vibration let alone a fatiguing one.

Simple actually, I start with bikes that cost $170 and up, I only use SKyhawk motors, I use a custom 'muffler bracket' type front mount for nearly 360 deg hold, use the steel back mount bracket and pitch the cast garbage, never EVER try to put something between the motor and the frame like rubber, and cut that obnoxious hard plastic throttle grip off the barrel and replace both grips with BMX foam grips.

Sure, those among many others are a lot of extra steps and not free I take on every build but that's just how I build, if you can't ride it comfortable it's simply not a 'nice ride'.

I have a 26" cruiser with the four stroke 49 CC on it and love it. I go as fast as my two stroke and that is without any modifications. Doesn't vibrate me to death.

I like those HS 49cc 4-stroke Honda knock-off motors OK, it depends on the transfer case of course but the motor is sound.

There are pros and cons but all that aside it comes down to usability just like your vibration on a 2-stroke.

Those small 4-stroke are gutless low RPM wonders, a 2-stroke will leave it in a dust. 2-strokes however suffer from a loss of power at high RPM's and high R's is the sweet spot for 4-strokes.

Unlike a 2-stroke where you just need to pedal a little, you have to pedal a LOT to get a direct drive 4-stroke going, unless of course you have gears.
Gears change everything especially for 4-strokes if you do it right.

I built Big Red for my personal ride for awhile before I went on to my next different tech personal but I sure liked it.

49cc HS motor on a Sick Bikes 4-stroke shifter platform inside a Macargi 7-speed converted to a 3-speed internal Nexus hub back wheel bicycle.

Sure my HP 66cc Shifters would kick it off the line, but nothing direct drive could get far (100 feet or so) before I overtook them and then strolled away in front.
Just my personal experience with them, take it or leave it.