Maybe on the next build if you don't want to put in so much work on a dummy oil primer you could check out Vintage 20cc vetranary syringe or meat salt pumps.
Excelsior V Twin build
- Thread starter DareDevil
- Start date
Or an 1890's medical enema pump ! £5.00 e-bay
1930's car grease / oil pump e-bay £2.50
Motorcycle hand oil pump 1920's - £6.00 e-bay
Mocked up on my 1922 La Francaise Diamant tank [ £70 e-bay ]. Changing main brass cap BTW - too big enough - 1890 steam pump - e-bay £2.00
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Hi Guys...Thanks for the input....I had to make it........ it has to be a certain size to fit on the side of the tank....so it wouldn't matter what I got ....I would have to modify it to fit.....as for cost ..all I need is a 5/16 ...T fitting..... about $5....DD
DD - I admire your ability / facility to actually make all the parts that are in your head !
I have the ideas, but regrettably since I retired and sold my business [ replica sports car manufacture ] some 12 years ago, I no loinger have access to the talent or facilities to put my ideas into creation.
That's why I have to do some lateral thinking with my parts choice.
The reason why the braze welds are so strong is the brass will flow back into the joint. A bunch more contact area than even a good mig weld. The brass will flow as far as the metal is cherry red. In theory You could get it all the way down those collars. So even though the brass is softer than the steel it is likely stronger than a mig weld. Today however most stuff is welded because it is faster and cheaper.
Mike
Mike
Hi Mike....Thanks for the tutor on the braze welding...I asked you as a teacher for the description for the benefit of our fellow builders....I like fellow learned folks to give there knowledge out as I know a lot of people wouldn't have realized the vacuum drawing of the brass or silver solder along the inside of the welded joint....DD
Scrap Yard to the rescue..!! Perfect solution for your problem DD. How are you attaching it to your tank? The sample pic bike is all brutal function, maybe thats why its still intact. A question on your control linkages , and thanks for the tech/specs too, ive looked at your excellent 'minimalist blueprint' (ballpoint pen on paper), have you used strictly fixed ball/socket joints, and/or is there one section that uses a telescoping sliding bearing along its length? Im not quite clear on how you get your travel coming off the fixed pivots on the steerer/headtube. "Power on DD."
OK......i think i get it. The vertical arms that run parallel with the steerer/headtube have a swivel bearing at the top AND a ball joint on the end?? ......How did i go DD ? Do i pass?
Hi... IITB....Yes thats how the geometry works....takes a little to get the head around it...but once its assembled its easy to see how it works...cant give you any measurements as you have to construct it to the size ..width..height of your bike..the rods are silver steel.....thread size is 3/16" ....The tank is mounted like the original...the amount of time I will ride the bike I will only 3/4 fill the tank....I have already made a 3/16 breather pipe for the tank which will be on the inside and wont be see...this should accommodate for any of the fuel frothing up...the tank has baffles in it also...DD
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AHHH! I'll just trust everything you say, I don't think there is any other thread that interest's me more then yours, thanks! for taking the time to educate us all the way through.
Ever think about teaching some kind of engine/auto/motorcycle/something shop ?
Ever think about teaching some kind of engine/auto/motorcycle/something shop ?
Hi... truckd.....The problem with teaching or giving advice outside a properly set up college with liability insurance..can land you in a deep "doo doo"...if I was to tell you that a bicycle frame was OK to cut and butt weld together with a MIG welder and power it with a 200cc motor..not give advice on brakes or other safety features that might be eventful in stopping you from killing yourself.....like the first time you hit a pothole at 25 mph and the frame broke in half where it was butt welded..could have injuries from a scratch to killing youself....or a car running over you while you're lying on the road....the other thing with teaching is you have to deal with the public....DD
Hi DD, that's very kind of you, i think ive solved the mystery of how it actually works. Although i may have a few more questions on it. it is very impressive , i must say. Are your pivot points plain bearing, do they have have bushes.? I'm just curious to see what you've done, how intricate it is to build and how effective it is in its performance. I do like the idea, so im impressed enough to want to consider it. It is great, and now that ive figured it out its even more appealing. ....Thanks DD.
Hey IITB...The pivot points on the steering head and lower frame are step bolts I made...they look like a bolt you would usually see in a sewing machine..the levers ain't bushed yet I will see how they ware...if they get a bit floppy I will drill them out and bush them..Its like any thing..time comsuming...but it a hobby with me....
Theres are a lot of people dont like Excelsior's..they a purely HD and Indian....I've gone with the Excelsior cause I like the slab tanks and the mechanical levers to operate the throttle and magento..HD and Indian started using cables about 1912...maybe some one can give us a bit of a history lesson on cable opperation....DD
Theres are a lot of people dont like Excelsior's..they a purely HD and Indian....I've gone with the Excelsior cause I like the slab tanks and the mechanical levers to operate the throttle and magento..HD and Indian started using cables about 1912...maybe some one can give us a bit of a history lesson on cable opperation....DD
Hi ... Today I have been grinding ..fileing...linishing..the frame....no photos as you have see it a hundred times....I have spent most of the day doing this chore...its looking good and there is just a few more hours to get it so I can hit with some 2 pak etch...I want to put the engine back in the frame before I paint it and start the engine... I want to make sure the electrics are working correctly and I have the new carb to dial in..DD
Bowden Cable’s...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable
While most English & European bikes used cables from the beginning Curtiss was one of the first American brands to use cables as early as 1904-1905.
Harley made the switch from rods & chains in 1909.
For Indian it was a option in ‘16 (perhaps earlier ?).
Excelsior was one of the last to make to change from linkage in 1920,
-Kirk
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable
While most English & European bikes used cables from the beginning Curtiss was one of the first American brands to use cables as early as 1904-1905.
Harley made the switch from rods & chains in 1909.
For Indian it was a option in ‘16 (perhaps earlier ?).
Excelsior was one of the last to make to change from linkage in 1920,
-Kirk
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Hi ......Still finishing cleaning up the welds on the frame with emery cloth linishing....takes hours...have received the clutch and front brake.... handlebar levers today...they are 1920-50s brass type...they need a little work where the cable pass through..need to drill them for a better clearance...DD
